Garn Maintenence

Hi All,
I haven't been here for a long time. I see you guys are still at it. That's great. When doing the general cleaning, water test and general getting ready for this season I ended up installing new fire bricks and gasket under the blower and cleanout covers., and also bought a filter set-up for bacteria issues I'm having. If anyone hasn't done it yet and needs to, I'll talk about it with you. Email me rick@chickfarm.com

Rick

Planning on a Garn. What kind of bacteria? Iron?
Thanks

They recommend a water test at beginning and end of each heating season. It's free. The testing company has chemicals to add that are not free. Because Garns aren't pressurized they are exposed to the atmosphere and any bacteria that is around. Depends on your situation. Some installations have few problems I guess, but mine is a farm situation and I guess they are prone to bacteria so I've had issues with corrosive bacteria. Search on "Garn Corrosion" I had posted on it a few years back. Since the bacteria comes back every year they have sold me a filter (not cheap) that is suppose to solve the problem.

I had wondered what happened to you Rick. The last I remember was your bacteria issue, wasn't that due to chicken chit? I had feared that you had more problems and just were not into talking about it. What is this filter system? I remember that you did quite an extensive cleaning on some of your last posts, is this bacteria condition re occuring due to your birds or once exposed are you veunerable forever? Nice to hear from you and to see that you are still burning.

I've had some health issues last couple of years. All is well now. The bacteria thing has been lingering every year. When I test water it is back. Been dumping chemicals in every year and it comes back. So the testing company has sold me this filter that is suppose to keep things clear. We'll see. I have the tees cut in but have not installed the filter itself.................I don't know about the details but they tell me this problem is more common in farm installations. I guess now that it is in there, since the chemicals don't kill every single bacteria, they multiply and start again. The filter is suppose to catch them
(dead and alive) by continuously flowing the water through it. I'll keep you posted.

Hope it works for you. Sounds like a real pain. Maybe a pressurized system would be better for farms.

Rick,

Have you considered the use of a UV light? If you have the Tees plumbed in for this filter, one could be added. I have seen them used in a number of pure water systems and on HVAC coils to inhibit the growth of bacteria. Essentially the water is just circulated past the light, and it kills off the bacteria after repeated exposure.

Not sure of the cost implications, but it might be a way for you to beat the little critters once and for all.

Rick, Glad to hear you are doign well. Sorry to hear about the reoccuring bacteria battle...must be a real disappointment to have the concern...but hopefully you are on to the solution.

I have cleaned out my HX tubes twice now (once a year) and ended up replacing one of the small gaskets. I have also had to replace the manhole seal. I'm also eating up the anode rods, about one every 6 months. I haven't had to add any more chemicals to my system since the initial fill in NOV2010, and have been doing the chemistry testing every 6 months.

Hi Rick, glad to hear you may have a solution to the bacteria problem. I thought since you didn’t mention it again that you had the problem solved.

Like Bruce, I have been cleaning the flues twice a year. I was told to put tin foil between the gasket and the Garn when I replaced the gaskets. I added a coating of bronze high-temp anti seize compound and now removing and replacing without damage is not a problem.

I added a backer rod to the top of my manhole cover opening (not sure if you suggested that or not) and now the cover seals well.

Keep us posted on the bacteria filter, I am sure someone else will benefit from your experience.

Great idea using foil under gaskets. What's the backer rod on manhole cover?

I had a post when I started up my Garn. I was having steam escape between the manhole ring and the cover into the insulation in one spot. I tried with Garn’s help to stop the problem to no avail. At Tom Caldwell’s suggestion I took .75” backer rod and cut a split into it so it could slide over the manhole ring edge. By compression it allowed for a perfect seal on a imperfect fit and the vapor escaped through the drain supplied on the front of the Garn.

Got any pictures of the backer rod installed?

Unfortunately I do not. If you visualize slicing the backer 2/3rds of the way through with a box cutter, you end up with the backer rod ready to slip over the ring of the manhole.

Nice idea!!

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/ecatalog/N-1z0dkh6 First off, I didn't even know what backer rod was until I just looked it up. Anyways I had the same issue and kept moving the cover around and it finally settled in and no trouble since. Unless I miss-guess and run it up to around 200* like I've done a couple of times. Then it will puff a little

Here's the filter drawing again. Precision Chem suggested installing a low pressure gauge on both the inlet and outlet side of the filter to tell when to change the cartridge. I've searched and found gauges at Grainger's and other places that go from 0-15 psi but they are rated only to 140 degrees. Any thoughts? Thanks!

Here are a couple shots of the filter installed. Couldn't find a LOW pressure gauge so I just left a tee in there to add one later if needed.

Sorry about the double pics