Gasket peeling off the door... because I'm dumb

[NoGoodAtScreenNames]

So first let me get through the part where I tell you how stupid I am.

I added some Christmas smelling mix into the steamer on top of my insert. I check to make sure the water is full whenever I start a fire, do a reload or do a general cleaning. Usually I'll put the steamer on the hearth and fill it there. But last night I did it on top of the insert (no fire going) and of course I spilled a bunch down that dripped on the glass and door. I dried up what I could and left the door cracked open to dry off any part I missed.

This morning I lit a small fire to dry things out properly - but mostly just because I wanted a fire. After it got hot I decided to crack the door a bit. The door was stuck a little. I gave a gentle tug and saw the gasket stuck to the stove and detached from the door along the top of the door. The bottom and sides stayed attached from what I could tell. Immediately closed the door and the fire has been normal since then.

Once it dies down I'm going to make a trip to the stove shop but sadly I trust the advice I get here more then the guys at the store. Is it worth trying to save the gasket with new adhesive or could that be dangerous? If I get a new gasket is the gasket rope pretty universal or are certain kinds specific to specific stoves? My manual (Enviro Boston 1700) doesn't specify anything.

Thanks.

 

[NoGoodAtScreenNames]

Update: the fire is down to some coals now. I opened the door and its attached on the door again. Will need to see how firmly it's attached when it really cools off.

 

[Heftiger]

It's pretty universal, just make sure you get the right size and length. It's not expensive either, so don't worry if you need to replace it.

 

[rwhite]

Y

Update: the fire is down to some coals now. I opened the door and its attached on the door again. Will need to see how firmly it's attached when it really cools off.

You likely burned off the stickyness. May need to just get some furnace cement and reattach to the frame if its loose.

 

[begreen]

I don't think furnace cement would work here.

I had to touch up a few areas where our stove gasket was loose. You want to use stove gasket adhesive cement by Rutland or Meeco. Massage the tube well before using to premix the ingredients inside. Follow directions for applying and don't use so much that it oozed or saturates the gasket.

http://www.amazon.com/Rutland-Stove-Gasket-Cement-2-3-Ounce/dp/B000FKF80M
http://www.amazon.com/MEECOS-RED-DEVIL-110-Gasket/dp/B000LNWLDU

 

[Woody Stover]

It's pretty universal, just make sure you get the right size and length.

I gave up on stove shop/farm store gasket; Looks like low-density stuff for the most part. I now get OEM gasket, that way I'm sure it's the right stuff for the job. If your stove shop carries your stove brand, great, you can get OEM there.

 

[NoGoodAtScreenNames]

The stove cooled down completely and I was able to do a better inspection. The gasket is tight to the door. I tried picking at it with a screwdriver and I didn't find any loose parts which I thought was pretty weird. Dollar bill test passed. The door is adjusted pretty tight and the gasket is pretty compressed in parts. Does not feel fluffy in a lot of places. That may or may not be because of what I did.

I'm not going to panic about it but I think I'll go ahead and replace the gasket. I measured the width to about 3/4" top to bottom but that's not a perfect measurement with any squishing that's occurred. Not sure if I should get the 3/4 or 5/8 - does it widen when compressed? Leaning towards the 5/8 just in case. Figure too small is better than too big...

Thanks everybody.

 

[NoGoodAtScreenNames]

I gave up on stove shop/farm store gasket; Looks like low-density stuff for the most part. I now get OEM gasket, that way I'm sure it's the right stuff for the job. If your stove shop carries your stove brand, great, you can get OEM there.

Yeah i probably will go to the place I bought the stove. Unfortunately enviro doesn't have customer service. The shop is the one that talked me out of a backing plate, insulated liner and an set me up with an installer who didn't want to pull a permit - so I don't entirely trust their advice. So I have to get my ducks in a row before talking with them. I agree OEM would take the guess work out and I'd pay a little more for it.

 

[begreen]

I'd leave it alone if the seal is good. In the meantime contact an Enviro dealer to be sure that you get the correct replacement gasket. There is a difference. Here is the part I think for this stove but verify with the dealer. Call a different dealer if necessary.
http://enviro.com/resources/parts-search/
http://woodheatstoves.com/woodstove-door-gasket-7-ft-x-1-round-p-10862.html

 

[stovelark]

Hey No good- adhese that new gasket back into place as needed and enjoy your new stove. No need to replace a new gasket (essentially new). It adhesed initially to the uncured paint on the stove. I'm sure its just fine. If it is in the door properly, seals tightly then enjoy your Boston- hopefully my next new stove in FS style. Keep warm.

 

[NoGoodAtScreenNames]

I went from panic that I broke my stove or that I was going to over fire it to the point where I guess I'll just keep a watchful eye on it. Thanks hearth.com.

Begreen - thanks for the OEM link. I'll have to bookmark that.

Stovelark - thanks for the reassurance. I think you might need a catalyst to just pull the plug on the Boston. Might I suggest filling your easily spilled steamer with a sticky holiday concoction?

 

[Jags]

Leave it alone if it is stuck like you say. The gasket has a tendency to form to the mated surface. That is why you are seeing some squish. Totally normal. If it passes the dollar bill test, don't go fixing it till it doesn't.