Good Roof Material for Wood "shed"

[EPS]

This Fall to Winter I stacked my wood upon six pallets next to my detached garage and along the path to my house. It proved convenient for getting wood for the evening on the way from the driveway to the house. I used some forest green tarps to cover it from the elements and, especially for being rather thrown-together, it didn't look too bad aesthetically.

By Spring I would like to replace this system with some small lean-to type "sheds". I can post some pictures soon of the area, but right now I'm looking for some suggestions as far as materials go, particularly the roofs of these little wood lean-tos. I need something that will keep the wood dry but looks good, too. Originally I was thinking of just using some boards, but figured those would leak and defeat the purpose. What do you think or what do you use?

 

[StihlKicking]

Any structure I build on the farm gets a metal roof put on it. Here there is a local place that brakes and cuts whatever color you want to order. It costs $1.43 per a running foot of 3’ wide metal. I find this to be the cheapest and easiest to install material that still fits into the looks decent category.


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[Tar12]

Any structure I build on the farm gets a metal roof put on it. Here there is a local place that brakes and cuts whatever color you want to order. It costs $1.43 per a running foot of 3’ wide metal. I find this to be the cheapest and easiest to install material that still fits into the looks decent category.


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I metal roofed the house this past spring..metal roofed the barn lean-tos this fall and this spring the barn roof will get metal...then on to firewood storage....I am done with shingles...at 54....I should not have to put any more roofs on...

 

[mark cline]

Next road over from me is an Amish family that makes the metal roofing ,also offers the 50 year warranty . Their price 5 years ago was $1.18 per running linear ft. Everything I build has a metal roof , when we get snow ,its 6" plus at a time .

 

[EPS]

Next road over from me is an Amish family that makes the metal roofing ,also offers the 50 year warranty . Their price 5 years ago was $1.18 per running linear ft. Everything I build has a metal roof , when we get snow ,its 6" plus at a time .

We visited Jamestown a few years ago and I was amazed how, after Buffalo, that part of New York starts to resemble the West and Midwest (we drove past a rodeo at one point). My wife is from Rochester and she and I met at school in Oswego, so we know all about that kind of snow that you all get in Western New York. I'm glad that I never had to worry about firewood when I lived in the Snow Belt as I have a tough enough time as it is keeping the New England Nor'Easters off my stacks. While I don't envy your snow amounts, I do envy you having Amish neighbors as they make some of the most sturdy and reliable...everything.

 

[FTG-05]

Any structure I build on the farm gets a metal roof put on it. Here there is a local place that brakes and cuts whatever color you want to order. It costs $1.43 per a running foot of 3’ wide metal. I find this to be the cheapest and easiest to install material that still fits into the looks decent category.


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This.

 

[firefighterjake]

Back in 2009 or so when I built my woodshed I used some left over asphalt shingles I had on hand . . . and ended up buying a few to finish the job. When I was up on the roof this past Winter I noticed some of those shingles look like they need to be replaced.

I figure I might as well check in with the local Amish and put up some metal roofing . . . one and done vs. having to replace the shingles in another 10 or so years.

 

[pittpizza]

Is think that a sheet of plywood with a coat of primer and exterior paint would last a long time.

There are good plans here I'm thinking of making.

https://www.epa.gov/burnwise/burn-wise-best-burn-practices

 

[drz1050]

Metal roofing can get turned into a flying projectile pretty easily if it's not secured down well, just keep that in mind when you're building whatever you're gonna build. I've seen some folks just lay the metal panels over a stack of wood.. I tried this a while ago and it flew across my yard shortly thereafter. Plans this summer are to build a proper woodshed.

 

[peakbagger]

If you dont have source of used metal roofing around, then go a real building supply store (not a lowes or Home Depot) go to the order desk and tell them you are looking for metal roofing that was damaged or put aside. Frequently the stuff gets scratched, hit on the corner and they usually set it aside. The roofing is also shipped with whatever the factory has laying around on either side of the good stuff and usually its set aside. Bring a pair of tin ships or nibblers to cut it if you dont have a rack on your vehicle. I recommend getting enough to go lengthwise on the pile with about 6" of overhang. Pick up six 2x3x8s (or similar sized wood) and some long deck screws 4 to 6" length. When home cut three of the 2x3s in half and then hold them up to the face of the piles about a foot in from the ends and the center. Have the tops stick up roughly 6" higher than the top of the pile. The goal is to have the tops be pitched towards the back of the pile and to one side or the other. It doesnt need a steep pitch, 1/4 per foot is fine. Using the deck screws, predrill a hole in the 2x3 and then screw the 2x3 into the face or sides of the wood stack. The face of the stack will not be even so pick the high spots, if there is gap the screw will pull it closed

Now cut the 3 remaining 2x3s to length for the depth of the stack plus 6" overhang. Screw these to the 6 vertical uprights making sure that the uprights are flush or below the horizontal pieces. Now lay the decking down and drill holes through the decking that line up with the horizontal 2x3s. Screw the decking to 2x3s using washers to spread out the screw head load onto the decking. It doesnt need many screws. If you are paranoid goop the screw heads but it really doesnt seem to make a difference.

That stack is now good to go, It will withstand fairly high winds, keep the wood dry and maintain an air gap at the top of the stack to let moisture out. It really speeds up drying and saves having to run around when high winds are expected. I also think it keeps the stack a bit more solid and less prone to falling over. Any water or snow melt will run off to the sides. I routinely end up with 3 or 4 feet of snow on my piles due to the location in my yard as I need to aim a snowblower near them and they seem to hold up quite well. As the pile dries and settles, the air gap at top tends to open up, I stuff short length ends in that space making sure I keep enough gap for air movement.

Instead of 2x3s I use old PT decking boards that I set aside when I replaced the deck on a porch. I know someone that does is with straight branches they set aside when cutting.

 

[DickRussell]

I've seen quite a few "woodshed" designs, with a roof having some overhang to shed most straight down rain. One thing that always bugs me is the matter of wind-driven rain. Particularly with tall woodsheds, it doesn't take much wind to result in wetting of the lower parts of the stack. In winter, the snow piles up on two sides of the stack nearly all the way up. What do you use on the sides to keep the wood dry, especially the splits that soon will go into the stove? I've made light panels with thin plywood over a light frame, leaning against the stack on the windward side, but I've thought there might be better materials. Big points awarded for cheap or free.

 

[jwfirebird]

I tarp the stack, I have a couple months worth in racks in the basement, the rest I tarp or it will have snow packed all the way through. we get a ton of wind and snow

 

[peakbagger]

I use my roof method for long term drying where wetting of the wood from wind blown rain really doesnt impact the drying. I have a primary wood shed which is a sloped roof held up with posts on each corner with diagonal bracing on the back wall. It has fir trees up and over the back side so it doesnt get any rain in from the back. The west side which has the prevailing wind has piece of the heavy duty silver tarp. I put it in one fall and just let it in there. It keeps most of the wind driven rain out. I have a silver tarp that hangs down the front in winter. I use two strips of wood and deck screws to secure to each side of the opening. This holds about two cords. I load out of there into my bulkhead. In the coldest weather the bulkhead holds about 4 weeks worth. I just resecure the tarp on front of the woodshed in between. I have never needed anything on the east side, its pretty rare for a wind driven rain to come from that direction. I usually have stack that is seasoning on either side. I take the front tarp off in summer.

The product that seems to work the best for the sides which was free locally was dryer section fabrics from a papermachine. Unless you work for Monadnock Paper its pretty likely you don't have access to them. Its basically a woven mesh screen made out of plastic fiber. It allows air flow but water drops are stopped by it and they run down. I really have not seen a similar product in other use that might be for free.

 

[firefighterjake]

I've seen quite a few "woodshed" designs, with a roof having some overhang to shed most straight down rain. One thing that always bugs me is the matter of wind-driven rain. Particularly with tall woodsheds, it doesn't take much wind to result in wetting of the lower parts of the stack. In winter, the snow piles up on two sides of the stack nearly all the way up. What do you use on the sides to keep the wood dry, especially the splits that soon will go into the stove? I've made light panels with thin plywood over a light frame, leaning against the stack on the windward side, but I've thought there might be better materials. Big points awarded for cheap or free.

I have a pretty boring woodshed with a simple roof design . . . rain and snow hasn't been much of an issue here in Maine . . . guess the overhang is long enough. On the sides and back I have a board and batting design . . . minus the batting. Once again, rain and snow penetration isn't much of a factor.

 

[drz1050]

I have a pretty boring woodshed with a simple roof design . . . rain and snow hasn't been much of an issue here in Maine . . . guess the overhang is long enough. On the sides and back I have a board and batting design . . . minus the batting. Once again, rain and snow penetration isn't much of a factor.

Mind sharing your plans for that if you have them? If not, dimensions?

 

[Poindexter]

If you want permanent, I am in favor of metal roofing. Figure out your anticipated snow load (mine is 55#/sqft) and build for it. I like @peakbagger 's method, but I run too much volume to use it. At ten cords annually I need a roof I can put wood under, take it out, put wood under again, take it out...

 

[firefighterjake]

Mind sharing your plans for that if you have them? If not, dimensions?

Give me a a day or two . . . no plans . . . pretty much just did it as I went along. Used some footings from a giant swingset the former owners had in the backyard. Used scrap dimension lumber partly from an old camp I tore down with 2 x 4 walls and board siding . . . 2 x 6s (or maybe they were 2 x 8s) for the rafters (bought that wood).

 

[drz1050]

Give me a a day or two . . . no plans . . . pretty much just did it as I went along. Used some footings from a giant swingset the former owners had in the backyard. Used scrap dimension lumber partly from an old camp I tore down with 2 x 4 walls and board siding . . . 2 x 6s (or maybe they were 2 x 8s) for the rafters (bought that wood).

No worries on exacts, rough dimensions would be cool. What's that overhang on the front, 18"? 48" between posts on the front? 1:4 pitch?
I've got a whole bunch of scrap lumber around here, I plan on using that as well

 

[firefighterjake]

No worries on exacts, rough dimensions would be cool. What's that overhang on the front, 18"? 48" between posts on the front? 1:4 pitch?
I've got a whole bunch of scrap lumber around here, I plan on using that as well

This is still on my "to do" list.

 

[firefighterjake]

No worries on exacts, rough dimensions would be cool. What's that overhang on the front, 18"? 48" between posts on the front? 1:4 pitch?
I've got a whole bunch of scrap lumber around here, I plan on using that as well

OK, I finally trudged out through the snow and got a few measurements for you.

The exterior dimensions are 12" 6' x 21" 6' and approximately 7 feet high (I was using short 2 x 4s . . . otherwise I would have built it at 8 feet.)
Obviously the front of the shed is higher than the back . . . about 2 feet taller. I didn't really go with any set pitch which I probably should have . . . just went with what I thought seemed decent and would be easy to stand on to roof.

Overhang sticks out about 2 feet . . . which you would think wouldn't block that much snow or rain, but I honestly get very little snow or rain penetration unless we have a Nor'easta or other blowy storm pass through.

It's about 5 feet between the front posts. I'm not sure why I didn't go every 4 feet which would perhaps made more sense . . . maybe it was for aesthetic reasons . . . in any case . . . it seems plenty rugged enough.

Rafters are 2 feet on center in most places . . . I doubled up on the outside edges and I think I had a couple of extra 2 x 8s so I threw those up as well.

Wall 2 x 4s are roughly 2 feet on center with some posts doubled up . . . I'm not exactly sure why I did that . . . although I am a firm believer in over-building things.

I hope this helps.

Photo 13: Front view. This is why I don't fret about how much longer Winter will last . . . this shed holds at least two Winter's worth of wood. Not pictured are my snow covered stacks outside seasoning.

Photo 14: As you can see despite being open in the front and having no batting the shed does a decent job of keeping snow and rain out . . . there was a little bit of snow in the back and front when I took the shot this afternoon . . . but this is after Thursday's Noreasta . . . and it has been pretty much snowing on and off since Thursday. Usually I only get snow when it's a very windy storm.

Photo 15: Inside side. No snow here at all.

Photo 16: I purchased the 2 x 8 boards and pine boards for the roof as I eventually ran out of the reconditioned wood I was using.

Photo 17: All, or maybe it's just some, of the front posts are made up of three rough cut 2 x 4s screwed together. Also seen in the photo are some cross braces I left on to just add further bracing to the shed.

Photo 18: Close up view of the "beam."

Photo 19: Just a shot I took of the crap load of snow that has come off the roof. I now have to walk up the snow bank and then walk down to go out of my covered porch. Also in the photo in the distance is Catcatraz . . . and in the forefront is my metal covered ash pail located away from any combustibles.

Photo 20: Side view, exterior. I love my RAB motion sensing lights by the way. One of the best things I ever installed around my house and on the shed . . . not because I'm fearful that folks will steal my wood (although the Cylon like red light bouncing back and forth might make some would be thieves wonder if the lights also double as recording cameras I suppose) . . . but rather the lights are great when I go out in the early morning hours or late at night during the winter and have light to see where I am going. No lights in the shed, but generally there is enough light thrown off by the floodlights that I can see the wood. In the back is a sled shed my brother in law cobbled on to my woodshed.

Photo 21: Showing the 2 foot overhang.

Photo 22: Doubled up 2 x 8s on the end . . . I had a couple of extra boards so I threw them on as well.

Photo 23: Another inside shot showing the wall studs at approximately 2 feet on center.

Photo 24: Bonus shot of my porch wood which I usually restock weekly. Since it was starting to feel a lot like Spring and I was thinking in a few weeks I will be able to easily get my wood supply on a daily basis from the woodshed I have not bothered replenishing the wood supply. I did not expect this last storm . . . but I also suspect this snow will melt quickly.

 

[drz1050]

You're my hero. Above and beyond what I was expecting, thank you much sir.

 

[WES999]

I used roll roofing from HD, inexpensive,easy to work with and seems to be holding up well.

 

[firefighterjake]

You're my hero. Above and beyond what I was expecting, thank you much sir.

Happy to help out . . . it's what hearth.com is all about.

 

[rowerwet]

Tyvek house wrap nailed over OSB or plywood would do the job just fine.

I go to Home Depot and Lowe's looking for the dented, cracked, and gouged steel roofing panels.
I've gotten good discounts at the register on them. They fit over my simple pallet firewood racks perfectly.

I don't care if the ends get a little wet, I'm mostly concerned with the leaves getting into the stack and keeping the wood from drying, or Ice building up between the stacks and pushing them over.

My latest firewood rack has a roof made from the plastic tank in an IBC tote. It stood up to the heavy foot of snow we got Thursday.

 

[begreen]

If you want permanent, I am in favor of metal roofing. Figure out your anticipated snow load (mine is 55#/sqft) and build for it. I like @peakbagger 's method, but I run too much volume to use it. At ten cords annually I need a roof I can put wood under, take it out, put wood under again, take it out...

Yes, I have galvanized corrugated metal roofing on mine. It's almost 10 yrs old and looks great.