GreenWood Questions

[ISeeDeadBTUs]

An apparent newbie asks . . .

"recent new owner of a gw 100. Been a process hooking up
system,but thats done. Been burning about a week now just had first boil
over condition this morn my fault left door open a crack for a while n to
much air came in. My fault. "

My question is . . . Why would you EVER leave the door open?



"Just wanna get an idea of wood consumption. . . I hear
anywhere from 10 -15 face cord a season."

I work statisitcs. Specifically some MRA. I don't believe that I or anyone else can satisfactorily predict your wood consumption. You need to look at a full set of variables. To be safe, figure you'll use more than you planed on.

Jimbo

 

[91220da]

Total of seven cords last season. Nov. 16 to April 12 non stop. Heating DHW also. 2 of 7 cords were not totally seasoned and the btu output was greatly affected. Try to burn solid dry rounds. Splits will vaporize to quick with the high temps. I also think I was loading the unit before I had too. This year I plan to let it burn down more before adding fuel.

 

[JMann]

I have a similar setup but plan to use well seasoned large splits this year. Is your system open or closed?

 

[91220da]

Hi JMann

Open system running glycol water mix to a 30 plate hx on the New Yorker oil Boiler. I installed the entire system in a detached garage that did not have its own water supply for a closed system. I fabricated my own expansion tank to provide make up / recovery water plus act as boil over protection. Using the digital heat retention kit and also a Sentry battery back up so boil over has never really occurred. Came close one day when I had some wrong valves closed in the house. Expansion tank did its job storing the expanded mix a lot of gurgling and hissing but no actual liquid mess to clean up.

 

[Deere10]

I am the newbie who asked iseedeadbtus the wood consumption question. I know that giving an exact figure is near impossible. But was looking for an idea of what people w a GW 100 have used in the past. Next is the loading procedure in the manual (load wood to bottom of door) what you are doing or load mid way up the door opening? Just got questions that owners can answer easier then a manual. Thanks

 

[Deere10]

91220da what does the digital heat retention kit consist of?? Also where does the Sentry battery back up hook to the pump on the back of the GW or both pump and damper motor?

 

[JMann]

Last year, I used 7 - 8 cords. 2 of those were softwood, not completely dry. This year, I'm going with a mixture of well seasoned, hardwood splits (some huge, medium and small). Hoping to get into the 6-7 range. I usually stay with the bottom of the door rule. If you go over, it not a big deal. Avoid opening the door to "peek in" and see how things are going. A lot of people on the forum will tell you this - believe.
If your wood isn't seasoned as well as it should be, you may have to move the wood, after an hour or so, to the back where the air intake holes are. I've used this trick in the past. You lose some efficiency but reduce creosote buildup which makes for easier cleaning in the Spring.
Small, hot fires in the shoulder months.

Anyone else?

 

[Deere10]

J MANN thanks for the insight. Been up and burning little over a week now,going ok. Not new to burning wood by no means,just new to the whole boiler/gasser deal. I am now not doing the "peek in" at all,just watch the temps n listen for the damper motor.At the 6 hr point i do have to push stuff at the door to the middle to get it burned up. Some of the wood was blocked last fall n split this spring,others were blocked n split late spring. Going to start blocking again soon,going with more rounds this year(as everyone says to do) all seems hardwood(cherry,maple,some hickory rather use that for smoking).Rounds just dont stack well on the ends so i gotta have some splits to make the whole pile look good n stay together. Again new to the site gotta forgive me when you talk cords do you mean face cords or true cords?? Many burners I know talk face cord. I have about 35 - 38 face cord stored up in my shed where the GW is located

 

[JMann]

I speak (as do most on this site) in terms of full cords (4x4x8ft). I have a temp gauge on my exhaust stack. I found this to be the most helpful gauge in determining efficiency.
I've also added a three-way mix valve (this season) to protect the boiler from condensation. I'm having trouble with it so far, thinking that I may have to add / relocate my circulating pump. If you (or anyone else) has added this with success; please advise.

 

[ISeeDeadBTUs]

Welcome aboard Deere10! As you can see, this is the place to ask your questions, not my email nor PM :coolsmirk:

Now . . . ya never answered my question . . . Why did ya leave the door open?

Your other comments makes it sound like you have the general idea . . . Use big rounds (smaller rounds right now while its warmer outside) Load it and leave it (resist the urge to open the door too soon)

As far as how big of a load to use . . . think about what happens with water storage. Full fired burn until the load is gone. Try to mimick that. This will not be completely possible unless your wife allows you to let the residence cool down, then re-heat. General rule of thumb is to minimize idling, which is evidenced by smoke.

I rarely load all the way to the front of the box (the load door. I DO try to keep the coal bed and fuel at the back of the box where the air comes in. My belief is that this produces the most heat with the least fuel.

Oh, based on your vague description of your location, I probably could stop by sometime and take a look at your set-up. This assumes

1)You want me to, and
2)Your wife is pretty and/or will have made good macaroni and cheese :cheese:

Jimbo

 

[91220da]

Deere 10
Welcome to the sight. The heat retention kit is a digital controller that monitors the outflow temp just like the aquastat. The control closes the damper at 140 degrees and locks it closed to retain the heat in the fire box refractory. It is great if you lag to long between filling the firebox. When it locks the damper closed you simply reset it and the damper opens. Add fuel and as long as the temp rises above 140 within 1 hour everything is back to normal. The retention kit has helped keep hot coals in the boiler for hours after it shuts the damper making it much easier to flare up a new fire. I will try to find a link and post it. I think it was less than $200 and in my opinion well worth it.

 

[91220da]

http://www.thiswarmhouse.com/_files...df?PHPSESSID=cdcf4ffcdd0c0520459611c5e3809903

Heat retention info.

 

[Deere10]

Jimbo sorry on the e mail front........ Door left open was to try to get temp up quick to get up to temp for dhw wifewas waking up shortly to shower and temp was a little to low for good hot water. Hind sight should have just turned on the water heater to take care of the situation..Live n learn.... Yeah sometime if you are in the area if you wanna swing in n check out the set up you are more then welcome. Right now it is in the basic form as stated before just got up n running a short time ago. On the Macoroni n cheese front have you ever had BAD mac n cheese??? Come on And as for the pretty wife They all can be super models if you consume enuff adult beverages!

 

[Deere10]

91220da Thanks will look it up a little later when i have more free time.. to

 

[ISeeDeadBTUs]

Dude! I'll be passing by your way probably this Friday. But there will be no adult beverages involved considering the road time, among other things. Amen on the mac 'n cheese front . . . I can honestly say the only bad I ever had was when I was a bachelor and used a whole box of pasta and not enough cheese.

Just email me your location if sometime around 5 PM will work for ya Friday.

Jimbo

PS I'm curious, given your location, why you didn't go with North Creek Auto or one of the numerous other smoke-dealers around there . . .