We are trying to rework a heat shield behind our wood stove. It previously was corrugated steel that was attached directly to the drywall and that worked fine, but I want something pretty. The clearances are currently appropriate and have about 1.75” to work with in replacing the steel. I want to use a brick veneer tile and and wondering if I can attach Hardi cement board directly to the drywall or if we have to remove the drywall and put the cement board in its place. The clearances will work fun with attaching it to the drywall, but I don’t know if the heat will just pass through to the drywall. Any advice is appreciated!
Hardiboard over drywall?
- Thread starter Swmnmom
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The clearances are to the nearest combustible (the drywall paper) so they won't change if the stove goes back to the same place. You can put the cement board right over the drywall, but cutting out the drywall and setting the cementboard flush in its place will allow for a cleaner look, especially if the edge tiles have a radiused side. Doing this will also gain 1/2" clearance because then the nearest combustible will be the studs.
From a tile setters perpective there is no reason not to simply install the tile or veneer brick directly over the drywall. Use regular thineset and you will never know the difference.
brenndatomu
Minister of Fire
The CTC requirement could potentially cut in half if the steel were put back spaced 1" off the wall and 1" off the floor, no?
Only if this clearance reduction allowance is specifically called out in the manual for this particular modern stove. I am convinced that there are many unsafe installations out there where people assumed that those old nfpa clearance reductions applied to modern stoves. Such a common misunderstanding.
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I’ve wondered about this for a long time. I have painted drywall behind my stove and my kitchen counters.
So you can just apply thinset with the notch trowel right on top of the old paint and set tile? Is there a height/weight limit?
You'll have to scuff the paint if it is glossy. As long as the paint is bonded to the drywall there are no height issues. Each piece is similar to attaching a single tile in the middle of the wall, the thinset will hold. The weight will be down and supported by the lower tiles as you set them or if there is a failure. Backsplashes are usually just stuck on with mastic.
Yes. Mastic can be used also if you select one appropriately suited for whatever you are installing. Contrary to most DIYer's assumptions, thinset is easier to work with and usually cheaper.
For regular tile there is really no height/weight limits within reason of course. Some veneer stone materials (+1" thick) specify cement board if installing over 10 feet.
Most of the tile showers I install use drywall as the backer. With a waterproofing membrane of course.
No, It can not be reduced below 12" unless the stove mfg has tested this and published those clearances in the manual. If this is with an unlisted stove then the clearance can be reduced 66% down to 12" from 36" with a proper, air-spaced NFPA wall shield made of metal.
Me too. I just read up a bit on this too. Apparently, it is ok as long as the tile is in a dry area and the drywall is smooth, level and undamaged.
Yes, correct. The paper is likely to be torn off if the tile was removed. So choose the tile wisely as something one can live with for a long time.
Yes. The same could be said about any other backer board as well. The difference is that tile over drywall is far easier to remove. Or rather, the drywall itself removes easier, because generally it's impossible to remove only the tile if it's installed correctly.
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