Harman PF100 won't autostart, burns low on firepot

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cabinover

New Member
Dec 9, 2013
9
Vermont
A little background so you'll know where I am at with this....thing. Bought 3 years ago by wife's grandfather used. I installed it since no one else would to supplement an oil furnace. Ductwork is tied in.

First year the firepot had a bulge so it was replaced. Within a month or so the igniter died, fin style so it too was replaced. Started and ran fine for the remainder of the season.

Second year I'd got enough phone calls at work saying it hadn't lit the previous night that I set it to manual light, touched it off and let it go back to idle when no call for heat was on. That seemed to work last year so we left it as such, the house leaks enough heat so it was probably more beneficial than costly. Grandpa was warm.

Looking at it last week the firepot was junk again so pulled and replaced. When I went to put the ignitor back in I realized that it can go in two ways which made me wonder maybe it had been incorrectly installed before I got it. Right now the igniter sits under the first row of holes closest to the auger. That is backwards to where I found it, which puts the igniter under the last two rows of holes, closest to the heat exchanger end. I turned it around to see if it made a difference as his other Harman pellet stove has it situated that way. After restarting it did ignite although it took just shy of 10 minutes to do it.

This year I figured we'd do the same thing, manual light with T-stat control, but the fire always seems to be down in the throat, very close to the auger rather than up on the firepot. If the feed control is run into test enough times I can coax the fire back up to where it should be but it always burns back down, no matter where the feed rate is set.

I've talked to the local dealer and didn't get the feeling that he'd seen this problem, nor did he know how to fix it. Just kind of threw his hands up in the air and shrugged his shoulders.

So here I sit tonight, the furnace after three hours has shutdown on a 5 blink code of no start. I'd be so happy to yank this furnace and throw a coal stoker in it's place but he likes those pellets so I will continue to try and help.

Also have replaced the exhaust probe sometime within the last year.

Seems like all of the combustion air is coming through the auger moreso than the firepot. Should there be any air coming through the auger area?

Will answer any questions that you folks can come up with to help and I really appreciate your time and thoughts. If this was Axeman-Anderson coal boiler I'd have it up and running several times over lol.

Thank you, Bob
 
If everything seemed to run right with the igniter in the other way....put it back in the other way. You changed the burn pot so that is new. Just make sure it is seated correctly. Then put the igniter back the other way and see what the results are. Should start in less than 12 minutes.
 
I'll swap it back around tomorrow evening but that matter is really secondary at this point. Can you tell me where your fire is during a call for heat? Does it burn way down towards the auger on your furnace? Thank you.
 
The tab you take loose to change ingrtor could be on backwards wich will cause it not to light proper,and if it on a low burn it will burn down low in pot unless calling for heat, and also check the fines tray.
 
The "hood" on the ignitor may be forcing more air through the burn pot closer to the bottom of the burnpot. If you move it back up towards the heat exchanger it may help move the fire further up the burnpot.
 
Thanks guys. I've cleaned the fines tray ( that would be behind the door for the auger correct?). Otherwise if you are referring to the bottom of the firepot, it's brand new and clean.

FF, I'll swap that ignitor back around towards the heat exchanger and give it a try. I don't have a new style ignitor holder/cover. It's still the older style. Just by reasoning with myself I thought it should be situated on the incoming side of firepot holes rather than the last two rows. I can convince myself of darned near anything given enough time lol.
 
I'll swap it back around tomorrow evening but that matter is really secondary at this point. Can you tell me where your fire is during a call for heat? Does it burn way down towards the auger on your furnace? Thank you.
My fire on a call for heat is about 1/2" from the front all the way back down the burn pot but not so low that it goes into the auger. What is your feedrate set at?
 
Well here's where I stand this evening. Didn't get a chance last night to screw with this. Tonight I pulled the burn pot and swapped the ingiter towards the heat exchanger end of the pot. Put it back together, waited patiently for 13 minutes and no fire. I can see the glowing igniter when I pull away some pellets. Making me wonder if maybe the pellets are damp.

So I figured I'd just hit it with a torch and end the wait. I couldn't get them to burn enough to even heat the ESP so it would feed. Hmmmm...open a new bag and relight the fire, still isn't hot enough to feed. Throw another handful of pellets on the fire and it comes alive.

Now we're starting to feed on a rate of 4. Timed it just out of curiosity. After it had pushed the fire off the pot, and more than two minutes had elapsed I shut it off. I was tempted to see how long it would go but I'm tired of messing with this thing.

Pic 002 is the way I had the igniter installed until tonight when I turned it around.
Pic 003 and 004 just show my holder.

I'm thinking the board is junk. Anybody else?
 

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Update on the PF100. Talked with a good tech from The Stove Depot in Vermont this morning and he was very forthcoming and helpful. I described everything as I have here to see what his thoughts were.

First was crappy pellets, I had already planned on picking up a couple bags of new to try.
Second was an air restriction. We talked about every possible way from intake flapper to exhaust run. I assured him everything was open, I have .05" WC on draft, and the burn pot was new so that wasn't an issue.
Third...there is a difference concerning the removable steel piece on the ignitor holder. Mine was backwards.

The first thing I did was pop the burn pot off to look at that ignitor. Flipped said pot on my lap and had a bunch of fines from the air side. Hmmmmm. Changed ignitor assy around and reinstalled everything. Set to auto and waited. Just about 10 minutes and we had fire. For a bit. Then the feed started.

I watched it as the feed pushed the flame off and into the ash pan. Made an awesome fire in there but couldn't keep one on the burn pot. I played with a torch, opening, lighting, and closing the door. Then watched. The right side would burn pretty well but only about 3/4" from the edge. Nothing from there towards the door. Hmmm.

I shut it off, leaving the combustion fan running on cool down, opened the door, push left pellets to the right and let it burn. Did that several times until I could see the holes below. Then I emptied the hopper. Sure enough, a bunch of sawdust.

I now understand what happened after watching the flame. I had a bunch of sawdust in the hopper that would plug up the holes from the underside every time the combustion fan would run. When I opened the door it would drop back to the bottom of the air run so I couldn't see it.

Asked Grandfather if we'd let the pellets burn out last winter and he didn't think so. He just dumped more bags in. At least part of them sat over the summer collecting moisture, including all that sawdust.

As far as I know it's running along just fine for about an hour now.

Thanks for all the help and I sure hope this can help someone else out in the future. I'll update this weekend if it's a winner.
 
Possible problems with ESP probe.

Also have replaced the exhaust probe sometime within the last year.

See you changed it last year. Did the unit run properly after new one was installed? Is the probe clean and connections good? You may want to check with your technician to see if there is any way to check the ESP probe to see if it is good or not. I believe that it is just a thermocouple that should read a specific millivolt for a specific temperature.
 
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