Harman Stove Programmable Thermostat install guide

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bclmread

New Member
Jan 11, 2008
64
NH
Can someone send me the PDF that Harman has released on installing a programmable thermostat with their pellet stoves?

The sheet references a couple Honeywell models.

Thanks.
 
Easy, seperate the two wires on the room probe. Break one and install the thermostat. walla.

Eric
 
Most of the models that they mention are obsolete anyways. Other than that, like Eric said, just install it in line with the RSP. It doesn't matter which wire. You can also extend it up to 25 feet.
 
That Harman doc is from March 2007....so it is likely that these recommended units are not available.

I have a Honeywell RTH7400 that I intend to use with a new Harman XXV. I used it with my Enviro Empress and it worked fine.

Its a 7 day programmable unit...I think the 6300 was a 5+2 day programmable unit...

I would think there are saying "use a high quality thermostat".
 
I'm running the Honeywell 7500D and it works great.

The bigger issue with using the t-stat with the Room Sensing Probe is to what degree you intend on using it.

The first thing that you have to get over is the fact that its not going to operate exactly like a t-stat/furnace normally would. You also have to understand the stove's response to a calling or satisfied t-stat. This response is going to vary based on wheat mode you are running the igniter in as well.

First, when using a 3rd party t-stat, as described, all you are doing is opening and closing the RSP circuit. When the t-stat is satisfied and the circuit opens, it causes a fault with the stoves computer and sends it into "4-Blink" status. If the Igniter is in 'AUTO' then the stove will shut down when it goes into '4-blink.' If the igniter is set to 'MANUAL' the stove will go to a min-burn or idle.

When the t-stat calls, it closes the circuit, clearing the 4-blink status. If the ign. is in AUTO, it will begin an entire new start sequence; feeding in unburned pellets, running the igniter etc., etc. If the ign. is in MANUAL, the stove will kick up the blowers and start putting pellets to the fire. In this "normal" condition, the stove doesn't care what you have the wall-mount t-stat set to, all it cares about is what you have the 'ROOM TEMP' set to on the side of the stove. As long as the circuit stays closed (normal), the RSP will do its job.

Potential problems:
1) If you try and set your wall-mount t-stat to a temperature too close to the 'ROOM TEMP' thats set on the side of the stove, it may fight with the stoves computer and open the circuit (shut off) too early. The best solution is to rely solely on the 'ROOM TEMP' dial on your stove for setting the temp and for the periods that you want heat, set the wall t-stat to its Max, usually 90. Fear not, your house will not reach 90 as the RSP and the stoves computers will take over and regulate the temperature to what you have the "ROOM TEMP" dial set for. Remember, you are just keeping the circuit closed (normal).

2) Multiple igniter cycles. The igniters wear out, it is expected. Unless you don't care and are willing to replace the igniter every other year, I would recommend that you do your best to limit igniter cycles. Your schedule will dictate when you actually need heat and when you can let it ride, but just consider it. In the "shoulder" seasons, I run my ignition in AUTO and have the stove run from 6:30AM to 10AM and then again from 4:30PM to 11:30PM. 2 cycles. To accomplish this, durring my 'occupied' times (When I want big heat) I set the wall t-stat to 90. For the 'unoccupied' times (no heat) I set the wall t-stat to 40. The whole time the 'Room Temp' dial stays at about 74. In the bitter-terribleness of winter, I use the same schedule, same Room Temp setting on the stove, but I put the ignition in manual and I set the unoccupied temp to 63. The stove keeps burning all day, the fans kick on and the fire kicks up when the t-stat calls and it goes back to min burn after the wall t-stat is satisfied. Think about the use your igniter would get if it was in AUTO and the stove had to start up from cold every time the t-stat called....

3) Other heat source. A no brainer really, but just make sure your alternate heat source (Gas/oil/electric) t-stat is set bellow your min temperature for the stove. You don;t want them to both be on and you want to make sure it picks up the slack if your stove goes out.

Don't read this as directions, I'm just making sure you understand the system.
 
Thanks for the great tips. I'm more interested in the timer function of the t-stat...when to kick up more heat (a few hours before getting up or coming home)...
 
Thats the best way to look at it
 
Hello

Amazon.com has the Honeywell RTH230B but any Millivolt System Thermostat will work!

http://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-RTH230B-5-2-Programmable-Thermostat/dp/B000EW5U86

Technical Details

Large display with soft-touch button interface
Precise temperature control of +/-1-degreesF with auto change from heat to cool.
Energy Star Rated 5-2 programming with 4 programmable periods per day
Programming for weekdays, plus weekends.
Fahrenheit or Celsius temperature display with 12 or 24 hour time display

Product Description
From the Manufacturer
A Honeywell programmable thermostat can save you up to 33 percent off your energy bill. You set it up to adjust the temperature when you are away or asleep--times when you don't necessarily need to heat or cool your home to optimum comfort--and your heating and cooling equipment runs less. This stylish thermostat offers easy pre-programmed set up.
Product Description
Digital Heat/Cool Thermostat, 5/2 Programming With 4 Periods Per Day, For Use With Central Gas, Oil, Or Electric Furnaces & Air Conditioning, For Single Stage Heating & Cooling Or Milli Volt Systems, Large, Easy To Read Display, Easy Access Battery Compartment, Filter Change Indicator, Temp Control +/- 1°ree. Fahrenheit.
 

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  • HoneywellRTH230B-Tstat.jpg
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AVIVIII said:
I'm running the Honeywell 7500D and it works great.

The bigger issue with using the t-stat with the Room Sensing Probe is to what degree you intend on using it.

The first thing that you have to get over is the fact that its not going to operate exactly like a t-stat/furnace normally would. You also have to understand the stove's response to a calling or satisfied t-stat. This response is going to vary based on wheat mode you are running the igniter in as well.

First, when using a 3rd party t-stat, as described, all you are doing is opening and closing the RSP circuit. When the t-stat is satisfied and the circuit opens, it causes a fault with the stoves computer and sends it into "4-Blink" status. If the Igniter is in 'AUTO' then the stove will shut down when it goes into '4-blink.' If the igniter is set to 'MANUAL' the stove will go to a min-burn or idle.

When the t-stat calls, it closes the circuit, clearing the 4-blink status. If the ign. is in AUTO, it will begin an entire new start sequence; feeding in unburned pellets, running the igniter etc., etc. If the ign. is in MANUAL, the stove will kick up the blowers and start putting pellets to the fire. In this "normal" condition, the stove doesn't care what you have the wall-mount t-stat set to, all it cares about is what you have the 'ROOM TEMP' set to on the side of the stove. As long as the circuit stays closed (normal), the RSP will do its job.

Potential problems:
1) If you try and set your wall-mount t-stat to a temperature too close to the 'ROOM TEMP' thats set on the side of the stove, it may fight with the stoves computer and open the circuit (shut off) too early. The best solution is to rely solely on the 'ROOM TEMP' dial on your stove for setting the temp and for the periods that you want heat, set the wall t-stat to its Max, usually 90. Fear not, your house will not reach 90 as the RSP and the stoves computers will take over and regulate the temperature to what you have the "ROOM TEMP" dial set for. Remember, you are just keeping the circuit closed (normal).

2) Multiple igniter cycles. The igniters wear out, it is expected. Unless you don't care and are willing to replace the igniter every other year, I would recommend that you do your best to limit igniter cycles. Your schedule will dictate when you actually need heat and when you can let it ride, but just consider it. In the "shoulder" seasons, I run my ignition in AUTO and have the stove run from 6:30AM to 10AM and then again from 4:30PM to 11:30PM. 2 cycles. To accomplish this, durring my 'occupied' times (When I want big heat) I set the wall t-stat to 90. For the 'unoccupied' times (no heat) I set the wall t-stat to 40. The whole time the 'Room Temp' dial stays at about 74. In the bitter-terribleness of winter, I use the same schedule, same Room Temp setting on the stove, but I put the ignition in manual and I set the unoccupied temp to 63. The stove keeps burning all day, the fans kick on and the fire kicks up when the t-stat calls and it goes back to min burn after the wall t-stat is satisfied. Think about the use your igniter would get if it was in AUTO and the stove had to start up from cold every time the t-stat called....

3) Other heat source. A no brainer really, but just make sure your alternate heat source (Gas/oil/electric) t-stat is set bellow your min temperature for the stove. You don;t want them to both be on and you want to make sure it picks up the slack if your stove goes out.

Don't read this as directions, I'm just making sure you understand the system.

Great info AVIVIII, I always wondered how that Stove Room Temp Control and Temp Probe/T-stat works!!

I have an Avalon Astoria with Auto On-Off operation only with a T-Stat but I am using the T-Stat in the Exact same way as a Stove Timer!

Then I just set the heat setting to low. It works great that way in the shoulder seasons when I have the stove come on at 3:00 AM and off at 10:00 AM. The daytime sun then heats the house the rest of the day and night. Of course having R-53 Fiberglass/Foil in the attic and closing up the Gable vents REALLY holds the heat in at night!

Then during the Winter months I just run the stove on Low constantly.
 
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