I'm running the Honeywell 7500D and it works great.
The bigger issue with using the t-stat with the Room Sensing Probe is to what degree you intend on using it.
The first thing that you have to get over is the fact that its not going to operate exactly like a t-stat/furnace normally would. You also have to understand the stove's response to a calling or satisfied t-stat. This response is going to vary based on wheat mode you are running the igniter in as well.
First, when using a 3rd party t-stat, as described, all you are doing is opening and closing the RSP circuit. When the t-stat is satisfied and the circuit opens, it causes a fault with the stoves computer and sends it into "4-Blink" status. If the Igniter is in 'AUTO' then the stove will shut down when it goes into '4-blink.' If the igniter is set to 'MANUAL' the stove will go to a min-burn or idle.
When the t-stat calls, it closes the circuit, clearing the 4-blink status. If the ign. is in AUTO, it will begin an entire new start sequence; feeding in unburned pellets, running the igniter etc., etc. If the ign. is in MANUAL, the stove will kick up the blowers and start putting pellets to the fire. In this "normal" condition, the stove doesn't care what you have the wall-mount t-stat set to, all it cares about is what you have the 'ROOM TEMP' set to on the side of the stove. As long as the circuit stays closed (normal), the RSP will do its job.
Potential problems:
1) If you try and set your wall-mount t-stat to a temperature too close to the 'ROOM TEMP' thats set on the side of the stove, it may fight with the stoves computer and open the circuit (shut off) too early. The best solution is to rely solely on the 'ROOM TEMP' dial on your stove for setting the temp and for the periods that you want heat, set the wall t-stat to its Max, usually 90. Fear not, your house will not reach 90 as the RSP and the stoves computers will take over and regulate the temperature to what you have the "ROOM TEMP" dial set for. Remember, you are just keeping the circuit closed (normal).
2) Multiple igniter cycles. The igniters wear out, it is expected. Unless you don't care and are willing to replace the igniter every other year, I would recommend that you do your best to limit igniter cycles. Your schedule will dictate when you actually need heat and when you can let it ride, but just consider it. In the "shoulder" seasons, I run my ignition in AUTO and have the stove run from 6:30AM to 10AM and then again from 4:30PM to 11:30PM. 2 cycles. To accomplish this, durring my 'occupied' times (When I want big heat) I set the wall t-stat to 90. For the 'unoccupied' times (no heat) I set the wall t-stat to 40. The whole time the 'Room Temp' dial stays at about 74. In the bitter-terribleness of winter, I use the same schedule, same Room Temp setting on the stove, but I put the ignition in manual and I set the unoccupied temp to 63. The stove keeps burning all day, the fans kick on and the fire kicks up when the t-stat calls and it goes back to min burn after the wall t-stat is satisfied. Think about the use your igniter would get if it was in AUTO and the stove had to start up from cold every time the t-stat called....
3) Other heat source. A no brainer really, but just make sure your alternate heat source (Gas/oil/electric) t-stat is set bellow your min temperature for the stove. You don;t want them to both be on and you want to make sure it picks up the slack if your stove goes out.
Don't read this as directions, I'm just making sure you understand the system.