has anyone used the product "Preen"

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When I had strawberries, I used shredded bark and/or pine needles, but only a light layer. I used newspaper as the main mulch, then covered it with the bark for looks. Worked quite well. Probably get a lot of objections to pine needles (they SELL it out west as pinestraw), but haven't had any adverse Ph problems with using that, either. Like I said, if you soil is acidic, add lime to neutralize.

My strawberries are doing extremely well mulched in with pine straw several inches thick. My soil is pretty Ph neutral, so any extra acid isn't hurting them and may even be helping them.
 
My strawberries are doing extremely well mulched in with pine straw several inches thick. My soil is pretty Ph neutral, so any extra acid isn't hurting them and may even be helping them.
At the time where I lived then, there wasn't enough pine needles to do it right. But I also found pine needled did a wonderful job on clay soil. Now I have lots of eastern white pine, and use the needles for everything from mulch to garden paths. But I still like to put an initial layer of newspaper down on a new bed, it seems to help keep the persistant weeds from popping through.
 
If you want Preen, go to a farm supply store and buy any Treflan product for about 2/3 less than Preen.
If you want Preen Organic, go to any feed mill and get corn gluten meal, less than $10 for 50 lbs.
Be careful with wood chips as they can tie up your available nitrogen and hurt yield on many vegetables.
 
ill try the preen in half the area and grass clipping on the other half and test it out....thanks for the idea's and opinions guys!

Do NOT use grass clippings. They will contain the herbicide you put on your lawn for months after cutting (2D4 if you put weed and feed down), and if green they will pull nitrogen from your soil, not the other way around. For leaves, maples tend to be your best bet as they as as close to neutral pH, oak is acidic fyi. My avatar is a 1000lb pumpkin, don't ask how I know!
 
Do NOT use grass clippings. They will contain the herbicide you put on your lawn for months after cutting (2D4 if you put weed and feed down), and if green they will pull nitrogen from your soil, not the other way around. For leaves, maples tend to be your best bet as they as as close to neutral pH, oak is acidic fyi. My avatar is a 1000lb pumpkin, don't ask how I know!

1) not everyone uses herbicide, and 2) grass clippings will pull nitrogen only for a reasonably short time as it's needed to build up soil microbes, then it will act as a nitrogen source, 3) oak leaves will have very limited effect on soil acidity as the tannins leach out pretty quick.

Finished compost has near neutral pH no matter what you put in it- essentially that's what leaves, grass etc turn into over time.

I will say- apply it in thin layers or it clumps, stinks, etc. I actually prefer to mulch it in place on the lawn
 
1) not everyone uses herbicide, and 2) grass clippings will pull nitrogen only for a reasonably short time as it's needed to build up soil microbes, then it will act as a nitrogen source, 3) oak leaves will have very limited effect on soil acidity as the tannins leach out pretty quick.

Finished compost has near neutral pH no matter what you put in it- essentially that's what leaves, grass etc turn into over time.

I will say- apply it in thin layers or it clumps, stinks, etc. I actually prefer to mulch it in place on the lawn

And that's why I said "if you put weed and feed down" in my post. Tell the grass clipping part to any competition grower, they will disagree vehemently. You create competition for any soluble N+, and once bound it is not available for quite some time. Our club currently holds the world record for pumpkins at 1810.5 pounds by a gentleman named Chris Stevens. We're somewhat picky about what goes on the garden, but to each their own.
 
And that's why I said "if you put weed and feed down" in my post. Tell the grass clipping part to any competition grower, they will disagree vehemently. You create competition for any soluble N+, and once bound it is not available for quite some time. Our club currently holds the world record for pumpkins at 1810.5 pounds by a gentleman named Chris Stevens. We're somewhat picky about what goes on the garden, but to each their own.

Maybe it's different if growing competition pumpkins. Grass does fine for normal people growing normal veggies etc. :)

I think that everyone knows about the advantages of mulching grass in place on a lawn
http://www.hort.usu.edu/pdf/kelly/nitrogen clippings.pdf

Aside from that, grass clippings provably RELEASE nitrogen.
http://www.cropscience.org.au/icsc2004/poster/2/5/2/860_koppk.htm

I'll take the word of published researchers on the issue (as well as my experience):
Overview of use in crops (including corn) with research refs
http://njveg.rutgers.edu/assets/pdfs/soil/fs1023-jhNutrient_Management_of_Land_Applied_Grass.pdf
 
I don't think that grass or other mulches tie up the nitrogen so long as they remain on top of the soil. When they get mixed in, Indeed they do tie up the nitrogen until they decompose, then they release the nitrogen back to the soil. I don't put any muches next to the plants. too many molds, and chewing critters hide there. Big thing with mulch is to make sure the soil can breath. I never work wood chips in as they may take years to decompose and I don't want any dyes in my soil. peat moss is great. Most comes from peat bogs in Canada. it is plant material.
 
I bag lawn clippings this time of year until the heat slows down the grass. It goes into the garden and will keep the weeds down, but be warned you're introducing about a zillion weed seeds. I leave them in a tight pile for a few days before I spread them and they get HOT, like too hot to put your hand in them. I don't know if it's hot enough to kill the weed seeds but it's worth a shot.
 
I tried preen one year and didn't like it. Some women at work use grass clippings which are placed 6" thick fresh around plants without any effects, while others use cardboard boxes. If the mulch is at the surface I don't see it tying up too much nitrogen. If it's a problem then a little fertilizer when planting goes a long way. We use a very heavy black plastic for melons and onions that reused each year. It doesn't allow moisture to enter so those things are hand watered unless there's some decent rains. Ive also heard of those mulching with compost. Whenever we plant rye for a cover crop it also helps keep weeds to a minimum.
 
Is this corn gluten a preemergant just like preen (equal ability to stop weeds from forming?), I have so far bought one roll of that weed block crap (i hate the stuff but ill try it once and see how much a hassle//mess it makes), I bought one container of Preen (stuffs like freeeking gold dust around here at $30 per jug), and im going to try some grass/leaf clippinps from my lawnmower as the third test. Ill let you know how it goes.... thanks to all for the suggestions
 
Is this corn gluten a preemergant just like preen (equal ability to stop weeds from forming?), I have so far bought one roll of that weed block crap (i hate the stuff but ill try it once and see how much a hassle//mess it makes), I bought one container of Preen (stuffs like freeeking gold dust around here at $30 per jug), and im going to try some grass/leaf clippinps from my lawnmower as the third test. Ill let you know how it goes.... thanks to all for the suggestions
Don't apply the grass too thick- it can stink and mat up.
 
I like to hear from anyone who has really used this Garden weed-free product?

Its VERY expensive and it also scares me because i fear it could "block" growth somehow of your precious veggies?

Ive tried the rolls of black sheets of breathable weed block fabric (and i DONT like that option!).
I need to till each year, some things i start from seeds (like corn, beans, etc.) and frankly these rolls of sheets become a big mess and need to be thrown away each season (not to mention taking a header into the mud last year when my boots got tripped up from the crap).

I know their is no magic bullet here to deal with weeds but my gardens are large enough now that i really need some options that will work for me to at least diminish the horror chore of weeding to some degree?

thank you!

Hello Doug

Here is what I used from Home Depot and Market Basket.
See Pics and Detail here. I like Weed Block Fabric better than Preen because it lasts LONGER!
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/does-weed-block-fabrick-work-mb-has-red-cbm-8-bags-for-10.87206/
 
i have used the fabric in one veggie garden, the larger veggie garden i used preen on one side, fabric on another. The fabric certainly seems to work (unless theirs weeds underneath im not seeing), the preen seems to be very effective and im impressed after 4 weeks (my concern is how long this magic stuff will last) .

I pinned down my fabric with long 4 inch roofing nails (i had a huge box i found at the dump and knew they would be handy for something someday) :p
Im not sure water penetrates this fabric so easy though because i see it puddle on the surface alot !!? Im also not sure if it may be better to buy the cheapo fabric and toss it away each year or attempt getting good quality fabric and re-using it each year? does anyone re-use this stuff by trying to roll it back up after the season?
 
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