Hearth Mounted Stoves

[gpcollen1]

I have been looking at hearth mounted stoves (vent thru existing fireplace). Went to a local dealer (Central NH) who carries, and has recommended, the Jotul F400 and the Hearthstone Homestead. Are there other manufacturers that you might recommend? Looking in the 50,000 to 55,000 BTU range. Fireplace is 29" high.

I wouldn't install the Castine (F400) in that situation, ESPECIALLY iif you're not using it during the colder season.
The door opening is too high - above the baffle - & you WILL get smoke back into the house unless you vent off the top.
The Castine is a GREAT stove vented vertically, but iffy with a rear exit.
The Homestead is a nice stove as well, but it's a 24/7 November to March burner.
It may take too long to heat up for your tastes...
YMMV

I am not buying those smoke issues with the F400 Castine. I don't have those issues and mine rear exits and goes up about 15 or 16 feet. I wish I had 20 for draft but mine does just fine.

 

[gpcollen1]

I can only speak to the F400 Castine but I love mine and think that it is probably a great stove for what you want. Mine is my second stove in the house. I only really use it from December-March, depending on temperature. This stove is a bit small to be an easy 24/7 burner depending on your schedule. If you do some reading on here, you will find it tough to get an 8 hour burn, where I get 12-14 in my Olympic. I get pretty decent coals at the 6-7 hour range on a full load of oak or hickory. I suspect that given the season you want to burn, you may be content with letting the fire go out at times and then starting it back up in the evening. A bigger stove does give you more flexibility but do you need it? I am not sure you do or don't.

 

[Backwoods Savage]

So I suggest not ruling out a soapstone stove. Take a good hard look. Here is one factor you will not find anywhere when comparisons are made. Before we purchased our soapstone stove we had a steel stove. In that steel stove we burned an average of 6 cords of wood per year. In the soapstone we burn an average of 3 cords. So you see there are advantages and disadvantages. I can give you many more advantages but will stop right here for now unless you are interested.

You don't see that "anywhere when comparisons are made" Dennis because the wood usage in a thirty year old Ashley isn't a valid comparison of wood usage between any new stoves. No matter what material they are made of. Cat or non-cat for that matter. I have a big honkin non-cat steel stove and my usage dropped from six cords a year to three after replacing my old steel stove.

And exactly why should comparisons be made? I do not speak only on soapstone stoves here and I also believe we would have seen a drop in fuel usage with a different stove. However, I do not think we would have seen as much difference.....and there is a difference between how the heat feels with soapstone vs a full cast or steel stove. I know that I doubted that but had my eyes opened on this point as there is a big difference in the feel. I also know there is not the temperature difference in the house we had with the old stove.

Your usage dropped by 50% also?! You can be very proud BB.

 

[firefighterjake]

So I suggest not ruling out a soapstone stove. Take a good hard look. Here is one factor you will not find anywhere when comparisons are made. Before we purchased our soapstone stove we had a steel stove. In that steel stove we burned an average of 6 cords of wood per year. In the soapstone we burn an average of 3 cords. So you see there are advantages and disadvantages. I can give you many more advantages but will stop right here for now unless you are interested.

You don't see that "anywhere when comparisons are made" Dennis because the wood usage in a thirty year old Ashley isn't a valid comparison of wood usage between any new stoves. No matter what material they are made of. Cat or non-cat for that matter. I have a big honkin non-cat steel stove and my usage dropped from six cords a year to three after replacing my old steel stove.

Have to agree with Brother Bart here Dennis . . . if you were using a modern EPA cast iron or steel stove with a cat and went to an EPA soapstone stove with a cat and saw a drop in the usage of wood I would say it could be attributed to the soapstone . . . but going from a pre-EPA stove (regardless of the building material) to an EPA stove (and a cat at that) would no doubt result in a significant drop in wood used -- regardless of whether it was made out of steel, cast iron or soapstone.

Now that I've said that . . .

I guess my question for the OP is to which route do they wish to go . . . if this is a seasonal home and they are just heating occasionally to take the chill out of the air they may wish to go with a decent, budget stove such as an Englander . . . or they may wish to go with a higher end cat stove like Woodstock to have the ability to go low and slow during the shoulder season.

 

[Backwoods Savage]

So I suggest not ruling out a soapstone stove. Take a good hard look. Here is one factor you will not find anywhere when comparisons are made. Before we purchased our soapstone stove we had a steel stove. In that steel stove we burned an average of 6 cords of wood per year. In the soapstone we burn an average of 3 cords. So you see there are advantages and disadvantages. I can give you many more advantages but will stop right here for now unless you are interested.

You don't see that "anywhere when comparisons are made" Dennis because the wood usage in a thirty year old Ashley isn't a valid comparison of wood usage between any new stoves. No matter what material they are made of. Cat or non-cat for that matter. I have a big honkin non-cat steel stove and my usage dropped from six cords a year to three after replacing my old steel stove.

Have to agree with Brother Bart here Dennis . . . if you were using a modern EPA cast iron or steel stove with a cat and went to an EPA soapstone stove with a cat and saw a drop in the usage of wood I would say it could be attributed to the soapstone . . . but going from a pre-EPA stove (regardless of the building material) to an EPA stove (and a cat at that) would no doubt result in a significant drop in wood used -- regardless of whether it was made out of steel, cast iron or soapstone.

Now that I've said that . . .

I guess my question for the OP is to which route do they wish to go . . . if this is a seasonal home and they are just heating occasionally to take the chill out of the air they may wish to go with a decent, budget stove such as an Englander . . . or they may wish to go with a higher end cat stove like Woodstock to have the ability to go low and slow during the shoulder season.

I beg your pardon but I do not believe I have ever stated the reason for the efficiency is because of the soapstone. If I have given that impression, then I beg your forgiveness. I do believe the efficiency is pretty much because of the cat. The nice even heat is because of the stone. Let us also not forget there is decent amount of cast in the soapstone stove.

 

[firefighterjake]

So I suggest not ruling out a soapstone stove. Take a good hard look. Here is one factor you will not find anywhere when comparisons are made. Before we purchased our soapstone stove we had a steel stove. In that steel stove we burned an average of 6 cords of wood per year. In the soapstone we burn an average of 3 cords. So you see there are advantages and disadvantages. I can give you many more advantages but will stop right here for now unless you are interested.

You don't see that "anywhere when comparisons are made" Dennis because the wood usage in a thirty year old Ashley isn't a valid comparison of wood usage between any new stoves. No matter what material they are made of. Cat or non-cat for that matter. I have a big honkin non-cat steel stove and my usage dropped from six cords a year to three after replacing my old steel stove.

Have to agree with Brother Bart here Dennis . . . if you were using a modern EPA cast iron or steel stove with a cat and went to an EPA soapstone stove with a cat and saw a drop in the usage of wood I would say it could be attributed to the soapstone . . . but going from a pre-EPA stove (regardless of the building material) to an EPA stove (and a cat at that) would no doubt result in a significant drop in wood used -- regardless of whether it was made out of steel, cast iron or soapstone.

Now that I've said that . . .

I guess my question for the OP is to which route do they wish to go . . . if this is a seasonal home and they are just heating occasionally to take the chill out of the air they may wish to go with a decent, budget stove such as an Englander . . . or they may wish to go with a higher end cat stove like Woodstock to have the ability to go low and slow during the shoulder season.

I beg your pardon but I do not believe I have ever stated the reason for the efficiency is because of the soapstone. If I have given that impression, then I beg your forgiveness. I do believe the efficiency is pretty much because of the cat. The nice even heat is because of the stone. Let us also not forget there is decent amount of cast in the soapstone stove.

". . . Before we purchased our soapstone stove we had a steel stove. In that steel stove we burned an average of 6 cords of wood per year. In the soapstone we burn an average of 3 cords. So you see there are advantages and disadvantages. . ."

I realize the difference in efficiency is most likely due to the EPA stove (and the cat with its ability to go low and slow) . . . but in reading this sentence it seems as though you are indicating the difference is in going from the steel stove to one made out of soapstone . . . I know the reason for the drop in wood usage is not what the stove is made out of, but rather its tech . . . other folks who don't know you or realize the change was made from a non EPA stove to EPA stove may not realize this fact.

Of course the "even heat" and stellar looks (Bigg Redd's opinion not withstanding) of soapstone goes without question!

 

[Backwoods Savage]

Okay. I won't continue this as it appears it could go sour and that will help nobody.

 

[firefighterjake]

Okay. I won't continue this as it appears it could go sour and that will help nobody.

Nah . . . you're still a good guy . . . and I have no doubt the change over resulted in much less wood used . . . it's just the way the sentence was wrote that it sounds as though switching from steel to soapstone automatically means less wood used . . . I think folks reading the thread just may not realize the reason for such a decrease in the amount of wood used was the addition of a cat . . . the extra benefits of the even heat and great looks are a bonus.

P.S. I'll even be nice and not mention anything about you splitting wood vertically.

 

[Mrs. Krabappel]

as an example, would the wife be able to keep it running properly?

:zip:

 

[BrotherBart]

as an example, would the wife be able to keep it running properly?

:zip:

:lol:

 

[heatwise]

my wife ran our stoves today, theyrefore i would recomend either of these. pete

 

[Grady223]

as an example, would the wife be able to keep it running properly?

:zip:

Oops, sorry. Should have said can someone who is not adept at setting, lighting and controlling a fire in a fireplace learn to run a catalytic stove?

As I gather from some of the responses, they are not significantly more difficult than any stove, so with ample training, it should not be an issue.

 

[BrotherBart]

All things considered it is probably no more difficult, or possibly easier, than setting up an optimum burn in a non-cat stove.

 

[jharkin]

I wouldn't install the Castine (F400) in that situation, ESPECIALLY iif you're not using it during the colder season.
The door opening is too high - above the baffle - & you WILL get smoke back into the house unless you vent off the top.
The Castine is a GREAT stove vented vertically, but iffy with a rear exit.
The Homestead is a nice stove as well, but it's a 24/7 November to March burner.
It may take too long to heat up for your tastes...
YMMV

I am not buying those smoke issues with the F400 Castine. I don't have those issues and mine rear exits and goes up about 15 or 16 feet. I wish I had 20 for draft but mine does just fine.

I was thinking the same. I load my VC through the top (griddle) all the time. So long as you open the bypass and air for a couple minutes to let the draft build up good you can open up the top and get minimal to no smoke spillage. A good chimney draft just sucks air down through the opening.

 

[Grady223]

I wouldn't install the Castine (F400) in that situation, ESPECIALLY iif you're not using it during the colder season. The door opening is too high - above the baffle - & you WILL get smoke back into the house unless you vent off the top. The Castine is a GREAT stove vented vertically, but iffy with a rear exit. The Homestead is a nice stove as well, but it's a 24/7 November to March burner. It may take too long to heat up for your tastes...
YMMV

No Castine, no Homestead, then what?

 

[begreen]

We ran our Castine, rear-exit up a 20' interior pipe without much issue. There was a little smoke spill when temps were mild, but by 40°F and lower it was not an issue. But considering the stove is only going to be used very occasionally from May to October, you may need a better solution.

In this case, I would be looking at an insert. In those mild months you don't need to be worrying about eking every ounce of heat out of the stove. Have you looked at the Jotul C450, Hampton HI300 or Pacific Energy Alderlea T5 inserts?

 

[sksmass]

Looks like the OP lives, at least part of the year, in Central NH. That being the case he should really make the short trip to Lebanon to at least look at the Woodstock line. It is a nice daytrip from almost anywhere in NH.

 

[Grady223]

Looks like the OP lives, at least part of the year, in Central NH. That being the case he should really make the short trip to Lebanon to at least look at the Woodstock line. It is a nice daytrip from almost anywhere in NH.

Not sure I want a catalytic or soapstone stove besides which wife doesn't like the looks of the Woodstock - most important issue of all. Now what? Forget a stove and go with an insert?

 

[begreen]

I'd go with an insert for sure. In May and in October, eeking out the last drop of heat really isn't the issue here. An insert really simplifies this whole question. It'll look good and it will still heat the place well.

 

[firefighterjake]

Looks like the OP lives, at least part of the year, in Central NH. That being the case he should really make the short trip to Lebanon to at least look at the Woodstock line. It is a nice daytrip from almost anywhere in NH.

Not sure I want a catalytic or soapstone stove besides which wife doesn't like the looks of the Woodstock - most important issue of all. Now what? Forget a stove and go with an insert?

Your wife isn't the only one . . . the only Woodstock stove I really like the look of somewhat is the Keystone . . . Fireview is a bit ornate for my tastes . . . that said . . . the new hybrid stove supposedly is going to have a different look from the other stoves . . . at least that was the scuttlebutt here. I'm very eager to see what it looks like.

 

[Grady223]

You must have talked to Highbeam! lol

No, they are not complicated to run at all and my wife is fully capable of running out stove. Now, if you think moving 2 levers rather than one is complicated, then it is.

Simply put, this is how the stove is run. Before or just as the wood is burned down to coals we always try to turn the draft to full open. This is with any stove and it helps to keep the coals burned down lest the firebox become too full of them. Now for the reload. As you know, any stove needs the draft full open and wait a bit before opening the firebox door. This gets more heat up the chimney to create the draft you need. So the easiest way to run the stove is to flip that little cat lever also before you open the firebox door.

After filling the stove, you naturally leave the draft open full. When the fire gets established you start dialing down the draft (with all stoves). Woodstock recommends 10-15 minutes before turning the cat on. We also go by making sure the wood is charred. But at that point, the draft usually needs dialing down for your regular burn. At the same time you change the draft you also flip that lever for the cat. End of "complications."

Even more simple, Woodstock sent us a stove thermometer when we bought the stove. We watch that and when the stove top reaches 250 degrees, the cat can be turned on. You never actually have to turn it off until you reload. Also, with the cat, you can dial down the draft a lot more than with most stoves because it is smoke that the cat burns and you get more smoke with the fire burning slower. That is what a cat likes! Slow burning. Yet, you get some amazing fire shows with the Fireview. The fires you get with this are amazing to watch.


So no, they are not complicated at all. We too feared that but no longer believe it because we see it with our own eyes.

One final issue I'd like resolved on cat stoves - I am told that the fire is not as attractive as that on non-cat stoves? True? What does that mean?

 

[Todd]

You must have talked to Highbeam! lol

No, they are not complicated to run at all and my wife is fully capable of running out stove. Now, if you think moving 2 levers rather than one is complicated, then it is.

Simply put, this is how the stove is run. Before or just as the wood is burned down to coals we always try to turn the draft to full open. This is with any stove and it helps to keep the coals burned down lest the firebox become too full of them. Now for the reload. As you know, any stove needs the draft full open and wait a bit before opening the firebox door. This gets more heat up the chimney to create the draft you need. So the easiest way to run the stove is to flip that little cat lever also before you open the firebox door.

After filling the stove, you naturally leave the draft open full. When the fire gets established you start dialing down the draft (with all stoves). Woodstock recommends 10-15 minutes before turning the cat on. We also go by making sure the wood is charred. But at that point, the draft usually needs dialing down for your regular burn. At the same time you change the draft you also flip that lever for the cat. End of "complications."

Even more simple, Woodstock sent us a stove thermometer when we bought the stove. We watch that and when the stove top reaches 250 degrees, the cat can be turned on. You never actually have to turn it off until you reload. Also, with the cat, you can dial down the draft a lot more than with most stoves because it is smoke that the cat burns and you get more smoke with the fire burning slower. That is what a cat likes! Slow burning. Yet, you get some amazing fire shows with the Fireview. The fires you get with this are amazing to watch.


So no, they are not complicated at all. We too feared that but no longer believe it because we see it with our own eyes.

One final issue I'd like resolved on cat stoves - I am told that the fire is not as attractive as that on non-cat stoves? True? What does that mean?

Not true, look at these videos of my Woodstock's and you can make up your own mind.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=70vAEhkua5A
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XBiJDNqCIqk

 

[Grady223]

You must have talked to Highbeam! lol

No, they are not complicated to run at all and my wife is fully capable of running out stove. Now, if you think moving 2 levers rather than one is complicated, then it is.

Simply put, this is how the stove is run. Before or just as the wood is burned down to coals we always try to turn the draft to full open. This is with any stove and it helps to keep the coals burned down lest the firebox become too full of them. Now for the reload. As you know, any stove needs the draft full open and wait a bit before opening the firebox door. This gets more heat up the chimney to create the draft you need. So the easiest way to run the stove is to flip that little cat lever also before you open the firebox door.

After filling the stove, you naturally leave the draft open full. When the fire gets established you start dialing down the draft (with all stoves). Woodstock recommends 10-15 minutes before turning the cat on. We also go by making sure the wood is charred. But at that point, the draft usually needs dialing down for your regular burn. At the same time you change the draft you also flip that lever for the cat. End of "complications."

Even more simple, Woodstock sent us a stove thermometer when we bought the stove. We watch that and when the stove top reaches 250 degrees, the cat can be turned on. You never actually have to turn it off until you reload. Also, with the cat, you can dial down the draft a lot more than with most stoves because it is smoke that the cat burns and you get more smoke with the fire burning slower. That is what a cat likes! Slow burning. Yet, you get some amazing fire shows with the Fireview. The fires you get with this are amazing to watch.


So no, they are not complicated at all. We too feared that but no longer believe it because we see it with our own eyes.

One final issue I'd like resolved on cat stoves - I am told that the fire is not as attractive as that on non-cat stoves? True? What does that mean?

Not true, look at these videos of my Woodstock's and you can make up your own mind.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=70vAEhkua5A
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XBiJDNqCIqk

Very nice, thanks.

 

[Dakotas Dad]

Looks like the OP lives, at least part of the year, in Central NH. That being the case he should really make the short trip to Lebanon to at least look at the Woodstock line. It is a nice daytrip from almost anywhere in NH.

Not sure I want a catalytic or soapstone stove besides which wife doesn't like the looks of the Woodstock - most important issue of all. Now what? Forget a stove and go with an insert?

That's just CRAZY talk right there

I am thinking, it's for shoulder season, a soapstone may be the best answer, as their gentle heat can be quite nice when you don't really need a nuclear reactor pile in the room..

EDIT: my limited research shows most cat stoves to be twice as difficult to operate as non-cats. After all they have twice as many controls... ;-)

 

[Stump_Branch]

I am curious why you are against the soapstone stoves? Is it the part that people love to post that it takes longer to heat up? If so, might I add that although it take "longer" that is a vague term or idea. It is like saying one car goes from 0-6 in 8 seconds and the other is slower because it takes 9 seconds to reach that same speed. Or, it is like saying you will burn only oak because it is the best for heating whereas some will burn only ash. It is not quite the btu rating as oak for sure but it will still give you the same heat that oak will. Oak gains by giving you more coals at the end of the cycle where you are getting smaller amounts of heat. Ash burns just fine.....in fact there are many factors that rate ash higher than oak.

So I suggest not ruling out a soapstone stove. Take a good hard look. Here is one factor you will not find anywhere when comparisons are made. Before we purchased our soapstone stove we had a steel stove. In that steel stove we burned an average of 6 cords of wood per year. In the soapstone we burn an average of 3 cords. So you see there are advantages and disadvantages. I can give you many more advantages but will stop right here for now unless you are interested.

Backwoods, I only burn Oak cuase thats all I have. Its nice, however when you in my spot I wouldnt mind having Ash. My seasoned wood supply for this year is very limited, I wish I would have had some fast seasoning Ash. I'm Jealous