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Hearthstone Mansfield Install Assistance Needed **PICS**

Post in 'The Hearth Room - Wood Stoves and Fireplaces' started by bcfarms, Nov 6, 2012.

  1. bcfarms

    bcfarms New Member

    Joined:
    Sep 27, 2012
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    Chaplin, CT
    Hi all. We ordered a new Mansfield from Preston Trading Post here in CT and it's being delivered Thursday. This stove is replacing an old Nashua that had been installed in the 1970's by the previous owners. Unfortunately, the purchase of the stove has created a host of problems and a ton of projects.

    I'm trying to install the stove to the best of my ability and according to specs. First, are a couple of pics of the old Nashua. There was a full brick half wall around the stove in front of the wall paneling but I tore that down when I discovered that they had run wiring under the bricks in the mortar.

    P1010032.JPG IMG_6589(1).jpeg IMG_7132.jpeg
    This has turned into an entire gut job and I have rewired the entire room, fixed improper framing, removed mold, insulated with Roxul and installed plywood, hardibacker and tile on the walls and floors. Grouting was finished yesterday. Where I am having a problem is with running the pipe through the wall into an existing masonry chimney that was recently rebuilt and has a good terra cotta flue liner. As you can see there are windows to either side of the chimney.

    I plan on using Class A Selkirk Metalbestos through the wall passing through a wall thimble, part number 6T-IWT. The Metalbestos piece in the pic is just for fitting purposes. I will be using a much longer piece. I thought that I had researched this but now am doubting myself. The thimble specs are different from what I was given. If the class A is placed in the wall without the thimble, then the clearances to the nearest 2x4 on either side of the pipe are 2 1/2". Once the thimble is installed it reduces this number to about 1/2" on either side of the thimble.

    Is this acceptable? can either side (round or square)of the thimble be used facing the inside of the house? The instructions make it appear that it's designed to be installed from both sides of the house which is not possible because of the masonry chimney. I plan on cutting the mounting ears down a bit and using tap cons and high temp silicone to attach it to the chimney. The interior side will probably be attached with silicone only so I don't ruin any of the masonry work I did drilling holes.

    The round side of the thimble is black and the square side appears to be galvanized. The round portion will not cover the entire hole in the wall from the interior so I am hoping to use the square side on the interior and paint it black.

    Any help is greatly appreciated. Right now we are burning the old Warner stove in the basement and it's consuming a ton of wood and leaving a six inch deep coal bed. The house is warm but it's wasting wood. THANK YOU .

    photo.JPG photo(1).JPG photo(2).JPG photo(3).JPG

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  2. webby3650

    webby3650 Master of Fire

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    You can use either side of the thimble that works best for this situation. It's designed for the round side to be on the inside, but either piece will give you the 2" clearance to combustibles.The sides of the thimble can touch the framing, the thimble is made to maintain that 2" clearance to the pipe. How are you gonna terminate the pipe in the chimney? It needs to have a good seal,even with the clay liner.
  3. bcfarms

    bcfarms New Member

    Joined:
    Sep 27, 2012
    Messages:
    13
    Loc:
    Chaplin, CT
    I am planning on setting the class a pipe flush with the edge of the flue liner and surrounding the outside of the pipe with mortar. Also will drill into the chimney for the thimble and attach that with tap cons or some type of masonry anchor and seal it up with high temp silicone. If necessary I can always mortar over the edges of the thimble or use furnace cement. What do you think the best route to take is?
  4. bcfarms

    bcfarms New Member

    Joined:
    Sep 27, 2012
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    Loc:
    Chaplin, CT
    Ps. The local building official is of little help. He works one day a week for a few hours. I upgraded my electrical service to 200a in August and after three promises to come and inspect the work on different dates I had to contact the first selectman. Miraculously the work was approved without the inspector ever coming to my house and the local utility company installed the new meter. They won't put in a new meter without a building official sign off
  5. Dairyman

    Dairyman Feeling the Heat

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    Loc:
    Southwest MO
    Wow bc that's a nice transformation! Congrats on the Mansfield, did you get the new model? Have you thought about a metal liner? The difference in draft for me was amazing.
  6. bcfarms

    bcfarms New Member

    Joined:
    Sep 27, 2012
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    Loc:
    Chaplin, CT
    Thanks!

    Hi. It's a brand new model. It got picked up in Vermont last week and is getting delivered any moment. I've been contemplating the liner but really just want to get the stove up and running. There are so many different liner companies. Last year I did a liner in the chimney flue that our oil furnace is in. It's an older chimney and was a royal PITA. Nothing like standing on the roof with your significant other and trying to jam an insulated liner down a chimney when tiles have shifted. Needless to say, it's in there permanently. It's so tight.

    This liner install would be easier because the chimney is much newer and shorter but it would be entirely from a ladder. What brand would you recommend?

    This stove purchase has turned into an entire room remodel that I was hoping to put off for a bit but it's too late now and I guess I should probably bite the bullet and spend the $600 for the liner.

    Ian
  7. firecracker_77

    firecracker_77 Minister of Fire

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    How short is the chimney? Still going to draft ok?
  8. BrowningBAR

    BrowningBAR Minister of Fire

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    The new design elements on the Mansfield really made that stove look good.

    And I'd line the chimney.
  9. bcfarms

    bcfarms New Member

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    Chaplin, CT
    The chimney is 15'. It's looking like an insulated liner is in my future. Just which one among the masses? They all claim to be the best.
  10. mfglickman

    mfglickman Minister of Fire

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    NW CT
    No advice but I love the hearth and can't wait to see the stove!
  11. raybonz

    raybonz Minister of Fire

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    Carver, MA.
    Great pics good luck! Look forward to the new stove and finished hearth..

    Ray
  12. webby3650

    webby3650 Master of Fire

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    That's because there all good. They are all tested to the same standards. Chimney liner depot would be your best bet. The Mansfield is kinda hard to move around, since you can't lift it from the bottom. You can step it down off the skid with some 1x's and 2x's ,then use furniture sliders from there.
  13. webby3650

    webby3650 Master of Fire

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    And don't worry too much about the liner, it can always be added in the future if needed. Every flue doesn't need re-lined, there are some good drafting, well built masonry chimneys out there.
  14. bcfarms

    bcfarms New Member

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    Chaplin, CT
    Hi. So I spent last weekend lining the chimney. After struggling on a ladder to jam the insulated chimney down the 8x8 OD 6 3/4 ID flue tiles, I removed the expensive insulation and metal wire covering the insulation on the liner and was able to get the liner down the chimney. I ended up insulating it with perlite.

    Now I am at a crossroads. I need to adapt the male end of a piece of Class A which is passing through a wall thimble to the liner tee. All of the adapters that I have found and bought are for adapting the female end of the pipe to single wall or double wall stovepipe. I'm using Selkirk Suretemp class A pipe.

    Does anyone know of any adapters for the male end of Class A pipe? This is for 6" pipe.

    One adapter that I bought is part # 6ST-DSA. The diameter of this pipe is slightly smaller than the liner tee and the inside of Class A. So, I am thinking that I could cut off the flared end of the adapter pipe and insert the remaining pipe into the tee and attach with rivets or screws and then slip the other end of the adapter pipe into the inside of the class A.

    I could attach the pipe to the Class A metal male flange with screws if needed. The black stainless adapter pipe would basically be unseen once installed because it would be a sleeve and the snout of the liner would be touching the class A male end.

    Here's a couple of pictures so it's a little easier to understand.
    photo(7).JPG photo(6).JPG
  15. webby3650

    webby3650 Master of Fire

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    I thought you were just using the class A as a thimble, not attaching it to a liner. This is going to be hard to adapt properly. And as you found out, an insulated 6" liner won't fit, it barely fits into an 8"x8" ID flue.
  16. begreen

    begreen Mooderator Staff Member

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