heat exchanger cleaning rod stuck

[vyel8ers]

hello all,

New to forum (first post) and I just picked up a used Quadra Fire Classic Bay 1200 off craigslist and I'm giving it a good cleaning before I install it. When I pull on the the two rods to clean(scrape) the heat exchanger tubes and the rods seem stuck, very little to no movement and I didn't really want to break anything before I talked with someone who has had this problem. Judging from the cleaning I've done so far I'm gonna say the previous owner didn't clean it very well or often

 

[Lake Girl]

Welcome to the forum! How old is the stove?
Manual in case you don't have one: http://downloads.hearthnhome.com/installManuals/7014_179.pdf
page 36 explains that the baffles (under the heat exchangers) can be removed from inside the firebox ... this allows access to the heat exchanger tubes. Ash and carbon buildup on the exchangers will make it more difficult to move the scraper rods. I use dampened scotch brite pads to clean off heat exchanger tubes. A small blade putty knife may be useful if ash is compacted around the exchangers. Some use gun bore wire brushes. Baffles off will give you a better look at the exchanger tubes and potential hang-up of the rods.

The firepot bottom also needs to be cleaned well so it can move freely. Be careful around the thermocouple.

If it is in your garage while cleaning and can be moved outside temporarily, compressed air can be very helpful with cleaning internal exhaust pathways. Also helpful with cleaning the convection blower blades. You may want to pull the exhaust blower and replace that gasket. Check door gasket. Close a dollar bill or similar paper between stove body and door. If you can pull it out, you need to replace door gasket.

Keep us posted.

 

[mralias]

Removing the baffles will not give you full access to the heat exchange tubes. I wish it did it would make cleaning a lot easier. It should give you enough access to get some tools in there to clean. If it is just built up ash then a refrigerator brush for cleaning the underside coils will work just fine to free it up. If it is all rusted up then you have other issues. Like lake girl said...bring it outside and use a blower or a air compressor to blow out all the build up. Pull everything out and clean it. That includes the burn pot, convection and combustion fans. Blow those out good and replace with new gaskets on all three. You can make you own gaskets if you want. It is not that hard just make a template from the old one using gasket material. Don't forget to remove the High temp tubing from the feed motor to the vacuum switch and blow that out as well. I use high temp header paint to paint the inside when I'm done to help prevent rust. It is rate to 2000 F but it stills burns off. Keeps most of the rust away. Good luck and enjoy.

 

[Lake Girl]

Removing the baffles will not give you full access to the heat exchange tubes.

Any other way to gain access? Can it be deconstructed from the top side if they can't get the scrapers moving? I know with my stove, you really can't get to all of them with the way it is welded during construction. One of the draw backs on my stove construction... wish the area above the removable baffle was more accessible. Have to loosen up ash with a putty knife from the fixed shelf under the exchangers to keep the scraper moving freely...

 

[mralias]

Remember this post Lake Girl? Yeah they are a real pain in the backside. If you break one...time for a new stove or flare the end and hope for the best. I mention this because you have to be-careful about how much scrapping you do on those exchanger tubs. Access is limited at the top only.

https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/heat-exchanger-tubes-keep-falling-down.138769/

 

[Lake Girl]

Yes, I do remember that thread ... was trying to remember last night if they were aluminum but brain was shutting down for bedtime! They are aluminum so gun bore brush may not be a good choice. Scotch Brite pads are OK for non-stick coatings so it would be a better choice. Thanks for the link!

Hopefully a good clean will remove obstructions so they can get the scrapers moving... Hope the OP keeps us posted.

 

[jzm2cc]

My bet is warped aluminum heat exchanger tubes. Look down inside each tube to see differences tube to tube. I have a used one myself and I'm just about ready to part it out for same problem. Very tough to straighten, but I've heard there may be a tool available to pull them out for replacement.

 

[stovelark]

I'm not sure about FS 1200s, but I know (from painful experience) that 1200 inserts, their tubes are peened on top to hold them in place. I was tapping on a set of vice grips to loosen the rod movement and popped a tube loose. Quad has an expansion tool to help hold them in place while you re-peen the tube top to set them. I caution about hammering on their tubes, they are aluminum and they are prob warped some.

 

[vyel8ers]

Well I was able to get them loose by constantly pushing/pulling the rods and slowly breaking them free Inch by inch. (PITA). Second problem. Picked up some used pipe and I'm trying to separate pieces and the RTV feels like it welded the joints. Any ideas on how to break these free easily ?

 

[Lake Girl]

Glad to hear you got the rods moving. No idea on the RTV as my venting has silicone rings between lengths to prevent leakage. Wrap of metal or silicone tape on joints for extra insurance with easier dismantle as needed.

Removed screws from the joints? Think I have seen mention of a filter wrench. Should be able to find info using the search box top right...

Edit: Here's a start! https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/rtv-wth.148205/#post-1993089

 

[stovelark]

LG hit it- make sure screws are out and sometimes its still impossible if someone put it on thick. I've used strap wrenches but you gotta be careful, you can crunch the pipe and ruin it anyways. Sometimes you just can't save it...

 

[smwilliamson]

Here's the fix 99% of the time when you cannot get the CB 1200 raker rod to pull up all the way. With the door open and baffles removed you want to look the the heat exchange tubes, specifically the distance between them. The distance between them should be even but closer to the center tube on one side of it or the other the gap will be narrow. Between the tubes with the narrow gap place a flat head screw driver and lightly turn the grip while pulling up on the raker. Should glide up within a few tugs.

 

[3650]

My money is on warped tubes. How high did you run it last season.

 

[vyel8ers]

I picked it up used a few weeks ago, didn't run it last season. I ended up forcefully jamming the rods back and forth freeing them up a MM at a time til I was able to get them all the way to the top. they move freely now. Quick question, How do I determine the year of the stove?

 

[Lake Girl]

How do I determine the year of the stove?

Should be a metal plate on the back that will have the manufacturer, model and month/year built stamped out.