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Heavy puffer sauna stove needs help please

Post in 'Classic Wood Stove Forums (prior to approx. 1993)' started by bandoo, May 15, 2012.

  1. bandoo

    bandoo New Member

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    The stack is brand new stainless. The temp. when I tried it last a few days ago was 75 outside.
    The last stove in the same place that had 6" pipe was iron water pipe and never got gooey stuff, just flakey stuff. You thinking double wall?
    What do you think of the piece of 8" water pipe coming up from the top of the stove?
    Thanks

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  2. begreen

    begreen Mooderator Staff Member

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    If I understand the pictures, I think the reason that this stove is not working well as the other stove is that the flue is coming out mid-back instead of out of the top.
  3. bandoo

    bandoo New Member

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    The pictue of the inside of the stove failed to rotate when I sent it. So it looks like it's coming out the side.
    The stack comes out the top of the stove about 6" from the back.
  4. fossil

    fossil Accidental Moderator Staff Member

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    That's what I thought I was looking at, as well...but then I can't resolve that notion in my head with the pic with all the rocks and the non-ferrous pipe coming straight up, turning 90° and heading out. I'm still not sure just what this stove looks like. Rick
  5. fossil

    fossil Accidental Moderator Staff Member

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    OK, so it looks like this from the outside through the loading door...?

    sauna.jpg
  6. bandoo

    bandoo New Member

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    Yes that's right.
  7. Jags

    Jags Moderate Moderator Staff Member

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    Is that a damper in the rise coming off of the stove in this pic?
    http://postimage.org/image/s3o82fyen/

    Do you have any idea of what the body temp and stack temp of the stove is during a hard run? Magnetic thermometer?
  8. Jags

    Jags Moderate Moderator Staff Member

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    Downdraft
    excessive outgassing
    Air intrusion
    Leaky stove
    These are about the only things that can cause your symptoms. (just talking out loud, here)

    Question: When you have the primary air set so that the stove is NOT puffing, do you hear a rush of air into that hole? Is it possible that when you clamp the primary down that it is creating a nozzle or venturi effect that actually fuels the fire BETTER than with the primary open?
  9. bandoo

    bandoo New Member

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    No but I will check. Last time I ran it it was real warm out and I ran it for about 3 hours.
    If there is any leakage it would be a few mm around the door. Other than that it's totally sealed.
    It's a water boiler body before they made it into a boiler.
  10. begreen

    begreen Mooderator Staff Member

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    What is this, the old stove? Having the pictures here in context of the conversation would sure help.

    IMG_0305.jpg

    Or is this the new stove with the door hidden? If so, it makes more sense.
  11. begreen

    begreen Mooderator Staff Member

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    What is the composition of the wall surrounding this stove? Makes me nervous each time I look at this picture.
  12. bandoo

    bandoo New Member

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    http://postimage.org/image/3vz1k5l2n/
    I'm not sure what you mean.
    There is only one air inlet on the stove and it's located outside the sauna.
    When the screw in/out inlet is open about a quarter inch or less it's ok.

    The problem is starting it and having enough draft to get it going without all the puffing out the inlet.
    I have to sit with it for 45 minutes nursing it so it doesn't puff too much. If I crack the door a hair the puffing stops and the air rushes in and blazes like crazy.Then I shut it down with the draft open a tiny bit it's then ok but not enough air gets to the wood so I open the inlet/draft some more and it starts puffing again so I have to go through the process again and again till it's hot enough to use.

    And also halfway through when you want to increase the heat any time you go beyond the quarter inch open it starts puffing again.

    Maybe the shape of the screw in draft has something to do with it?
    Or the steel pipe that comes from the top of the stove to the elbow should have been way shorter??
    It's got me stumped.
    .
    I can take any other pictures need.
  13. begreen

    begreen Mooderator Staff Member

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    Please post these images directly. The off site references are not helping.
  14. bandoo

    bandoo New Member

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    it's foamed concrete completely noncombustible.

    I have been running a stove in the same place for about 20 years.
    The old smaller stove (3/4 volume to this one) box shaped rusted out so we decided to use a round shape to keep the welds down and simplify construction.
    The old stove had a 6" pipe/stack.

    We thought sice it was so much bigger we would go to an 8" since even my VC and Hartland had 8" pipe I couldn't imagine it would be a problem.
  15. bandoo

    bandoo New Member

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    Would love to ,If you don't mind please tell me how to do it. I couldn't figure it out.
  16. begreen

    begreen Mooderator Staff Member

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    Use the Upload a File option. The button is next to the Post Reply button. If the images are large, use the thumbnail option.
  17. bandoo

    bandoo New Member

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  18. bandoo

    bandoo New Member

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    Here are the rest of the pictures. The stack is not as near to combustibles as it looks from the pictures.

    IMG_0299.JPG IMG_0313.JPG IMG_0310.JPG IMG_0308.JPG IMG_0307.JPG IMG_0305.JPG IMG_0304.JPG
  19. bandoo

    bandoo New Member

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    Here are few better in proportion pictures now that I know how to upload them.

    IMG_0319.JPG IMG_0314.JPG
  20. begreen

    begreen Mooderator Staff Member

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    Great, that helps. I converted them to thumbnails for easier viewing.

    How is the 8" pipe joined to the 6" pipe. Are there leaks or air gaps there?

    How are the walls around the stove and the stove pipe constructed?
  21. bandoo

    bandoo New Member

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    They are cement block.. Actually something called etung which is foamed concrete in blocks.There is a cute little hand made wooden house above so I am really on the fire danger thing..
    I will send thumbnails from now on. Thanks for telling me.
  22. Jags

    Jags Moderate Moderator Staff Member

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    Okay - in my head this is all about the draft. Your last explanation of how you start the fire proves it to me. I don't know what your options are as far as getting rid of that long horizontal run (even for testing purposes) are?
  23. bandoo

    bandoo New Member

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    It's not possible to move anything at this point.
    Before we put this stove in there was a smaller one with a 6" pipe with the exact horizontal as now without any puffing.
    With this installation we increased the upward horizontal angle of that piece to 30 degrees.
    The upright stack is more than 5 yards high.....one yard higher than the last one..
  24. bandoo

    bandoo New Member

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    another difference is the pipe from the top of the stove went up about 6 inches then into a srtaight piece then another elbow out the wall creating a more gradual angle rather than the 21 inch upright exiting the wall at 30 degrees..
  25. Jags

    Jags Moderate Moderator Staff Member

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    5 yards high with the negative impact of a horizontal run (even at 30 degrees) is less than ideal for even the best drafting stove. Add in the fact that you are using an 8" pipe on a mid sized stove and I can see issues rising up. Issues that you obviously are dealing with.

    Can you add height?

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