Help me pick a stove

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ToastyToes

New Member
Jul 6, 2009
9
Midwest
Here are some bids and the total price (including install)

Lopi Republic 1750 18" logs $3695

Jotul Castine 20" logs $4255

Jotul Oslo 22" logs $4540

Hearthstone Heritage 22" logs $5187


My house: split entry ( 2 levels ), 1900 sft total.

I noticed that the Lopi Republic 1750 takes 18" logs, while the other ones take 20" - 22" logs.

Does log size make a big difference? Is it worth paying $1000 more for a stove that can take longer log sizes?

Is it worth paying $1000 more for a soapstone stove like the Heritage?

I'm a wood burning newbie so any suggestion is greatly appreciated.
 
Welcome!

Quick answers:

Worth paying $1K more so it can take longer logs? - No. IF you are buying your wood, you will most likely find it cut to around 18" - if you cut your own then you will cut it to match your stove. I wouldn't pay more just to get longer logs. With that said, having a large firebox is a benefit but shorter log doesn't necessarily mean smaller firebox volume.

Worth paying $1K more for soapstone? - Maybe, but not necessarily in and of itself. Soapstone stoves will burn differently than steel which in turn will have different characteristics than cast. Each is unique, I won't even say they have pros and cons it is more a matter of differences that some folks appreciate for different applications and some folks value more than others.

Complex answers:

Need to ask you a few more questions - how do you expect to burn? in other words, WHY are you doing this in the first place? This is perhaps the most important question really. Will someone be home tending the stove 24/7 or do you plan to burn on nights/weekends or even less than that? Where is the stove going in your house as it will impact the functionality (heat distribution) as well as how important the looks are to you - is it going to be a showpiece in the middle of your life year round, or sitting in a basement not seen (is there someone in your house who cares about how it looks or are all residents purely functional folks?)

For that size house, IF you are well insulated and have good floor plan for airflow, you may well be able to heat the whole house. Is that your objective? What do you have for a chimney setup? Is it new or are you retrofitting something?

There are many stoves out there - careful making your decision based on size of wood and the material the stove is made of. I recommend you concentrate on the burning character of the stove and how well it will fit into your lifestyle (and your home), then the stove may well pick you in the end.

Advice #1 - if you expect to get a stove in the next year, get your wood supply yesterday! Seriously - this is the main problem and cause of problems with ALL stoves in the first year (or more) of operation.
 
ToastyToes said:
Here are some bids and the total price (including install)

Lopi Republic 1750 18" logs $3695

Jotul Castine 20" logs $4255

Jotul Oslo 22" logs $4540

Hearthstone Heritage 22" logs $5187
You're on the same boat I was a short time back. All great stoves. I was also looking at some steel stoves as well. Lopi is a great manufacturer and has a nice line. The Hearthstones are great and can kick out heat for about 4 hours after your fire is out.. very economical, but they do take a bit longer to heat up the house. Their heat isn't quite as radiant as a steel or cast iron stove, but more mellow and even if you know what I mean.. good if you have kids around. I, however, thought their appearance wasnt quite what I was looking for. I opted for the Oslo because of their time tested stoves that had some of the best reviews out there. I also thought their look was real neat. They're all good stoves, but Im glad I went with Jotul. Enjoy the new stove.
 
for the house size of the house i would go with the f500 oslo
 
Slow1 said:
Welcome!

Quick answers:

Worth paying $1K more so it can take longer logs? - No. IF you are buying your wood, you will most likely find it cut to around 18" - if you cut your own then you will cut it to match your stove. I wouldn't pay more just to get longer logs. With that said, having a large firebox is a benefit but shorter log doesn't necessarily mean smaller firebox volume.

Worth paying $1K more for soapstone? - Maybe, but not necessarily in and of itself. Soapstone stoves will burn differently than steel which in turn will have different characteristics than cast. Each is unique, I won't even say they have pros and cons it is more a matter of differences that some folks appreciate for different applications and some folks value more than others.

Complex answers:

Need to ask you a few more questions - how do you expect to burn? in other words, WHY are you doing this in the first place? This is perhaps the most important question really. Will someone be home tending the stove 24/7 or do you plan to burn on nights/weekends or even less than that? Where is the stove going in your house as it will impact the functionality (heat distribution) as well as how important the looks are to you - is it going to be a showpiece in the middle of your life year round, or sitting in a basement not seen (is there someone in your house who cares about how it looks or are all residents purely functional folks?)

For that size house, IF you are well insulated and have good floor plan for airflow, you may well be able to heat the whole house. Is that your objective? What do you have for a chimney setup? Is it new or are you retrofitting something?

There are many stoves out there - careful making your decision based on size of wood and the material the stove is made of. I recommend you concentrate on the burning character of the stove and how well it will fit into your lifestyle (and your home), then the stove may well pick you in the end.

Advice #1 - if you expect to get a stove in the next year, get your wood supply yesterday! Seriously - this is the main problem and cause of problems with ALL stoves in the first year (or more) of operation.

Great post!
Depending on the answers maybe a furnace might be more in line for what you need to heat on 2 loads a day heating your entire home for a few thousand less then what I see quoted.
Those stove are also only up to 60K btus,but all of that heat is in 1 room which it is operating in before it bleeds off to adjoining rooms.
A furnace like the BJ90 for under $1600 has a 90k btu output which can stand like a stove and do gravity heat but also can be hooked into ducting distributing the heat to all rooms of the home.
 
Lopi takes 18" = easy to fit 16" with room

Others take 20-22" = easy to take 18-20"

Manufacturers thing we load firewood like a tetris game (or jenga blocks) when reality is it is not easy to fit 18" splits in a stove that says it will take 18" splits.

I too would choose the Oslo based on my current experience with Jotul and your home size.
 
Slow1 said:
Welcome!

Need to ask you a few more questions - how do you expect to burn? in other words, WHY are you doing this in the first place? This is perhaps the most important question really. Will someone be home tending the stove 24/7 or do you plan to burn on nights/weekends or even less than that? Where is the stove going in your house as it will impact the functionality (heat distribution) as well as how important the looks are to you - is it going to be a showpiece in the middle of your life year round, or sitting in a basement not seen (is there someone in your house who cares about how it looks or are all residents purely functional folks?)

For that size house, IF you are well insulated and have good floor plan for airflow, you may well be able to heat the whole house. Is that your objective? What do you have for a chimney setup? Is it new or are you retrofitting something?


Wow, thanks to all of you who replied. More details:

This is for nights/weekend burning only. We have a primary hot water baseboard system for the entire house but the lower level family room ( where the stove is going to be located) tends to be colder and I want something to make the lower level more comfortable and welcoming. So the main goal here is supplemental heating, plus sitting around a fire sure beats watching TV as a family activity at least in my opinion. The house is well insulated but not airtight as the newer homes. The house was built around 1969. The floor plan is not great for airflow. The lower level will be OK, and we do have an open stairwell so some hot air will go up to the living room and kitchen/dining upstairs. The upstairs bedrooms will not benefit much. I've heard that you can put in floor grates for air movement to upstairs. Has anyone tried that and how well does it work?

There is an existing chimney but it is located on an outside wall. I know this is not the best design but it is what we've got so it is going to be a retrofit. There is really no good place elsewhere to put in a chimney. Right now there is a brick fireplace that was built in front of the chimney ( not under, another bad design by the original home owners). The fireplace is basically useless. It is so deep that the wood stove company said they could not put an insert into it and have it draft properly. In fact they could not even get the pipes/liner to connect to the stove. So we are going to tear the bricks out and rebuild the wall behind it.

Another question: if I get a stove that is too big, will overheating be a problem? Is burning a smaller load an option or will it mess up the efficiency of the stove? We get below freezing temps here for 3-4 months out of a year, and generally we need to turn the heat on from October to end of April.

Again thanks every one. This really helps.
 
ToastyToes said:
This is for nights/weekend burning only. ... So the main goal here is supplemental heating, plus sitting around a fire sure beats watching TV as a family activity at least in my opinion. The house is well insulated but not airtight as the newer homes. The house was built around 1969. The floor plan is not great for airflow. The lower level will be OK, and we do have an open stairwell so some hot air will go up to the living room and kitchen/dining upstairs. The upstairs bedrooms will not benefit much. I've heard that you can put in floor grates for air movement to upstairs. Has anyone tried that and how well does it work?

Careful - this is how many folks get started, the addiction starts as 'just nights and weekends to supplement' then well.. next thing you know you break out in a cold sweat if you hear the central heat kick in during the night :)

How large is this room? Do you have much concern about clearances around where the stove is going to be placed - i.e. have you measured out the space yet to visualize just how much room on the floor it will take up once you consider the buffer of safety space around it? Different stoves will have considerably different requirements so if you don't have a good amount of space this will likely come into play, best to know up front. (more later in next section).

If your objective remains to just enjoy the stove on the one level then you will be easily satisfied. If you go to trying to push the heat up then it may get complicated, reality is that you will want to help move the cold air down. What you need is the ability to create a nice flow of cold air down to stove and warm air up. Largely you are going to be limited or enabled by the architecture of your home now unless you want to go making renovations. From my reading over the last year or so, some folks have had (some rather limited) drying to add floor grates etc to help here. Then you get into code concerns etc since putting holes between floors could allow a fire to spread more easily - apparently this isn't necessarily standardized everywhere so YMMV on how big a deal that is.

ToastyToes said:
There is an existing chimney but it is located on an outside wall. ... In fact they could not even get the pipes/liner to connect to the stove. So we are going to tear the bricks out and rebuild the wall behind it.

Post some pictures and drawings here - I'm sure you will get some interesting (and perhaps even useful) second, third, forth... opinions on how to approach this. May save yourself some cost and/or end up with a nicer end result. If you are redesigning the hearth area anyway then you can customize it for the stove of choice - so definitely either have your stove picked out well before doing this or make sure you over-engineer the area. Again, different stoves have varied requirements for floor protection (amount and size). Consider making it larger than minimum required if you have the space, it will not only look nicer in many cases but depending on how the rest of your flooring is it may help make messes easier to contain and/or make it a bit safer too.

ToastyToes said:
Another question: if I get a stove that is too big, will overheating be a problem? Is burning a smaller load an option or will it mess up the efficiency of the stove? We get below freezing temps here for 3-4 months out of a year, and generally we need to turn the heat on from October to end of April.

I think the general consensus around here is the "it is easier to build a smaller fire in a larger stove than a larger fire in a smaller stove". Given your general plan of burning I don't think that efficiency would be my primary concern, however getting good clean burns easily and quickly from the time you light up the fire would be. This is of course somewhat related to efficiency. Depending on exactly how your chimney ends up being - how tall etc, it may or may not provide 'ideal' draft. Some stoves care more about this than others. Get more details about your chimney on here and if there are any red flags I'm sure if a stove you are looking at is sensitive someone will likely pipe in.

The other thing you should at least understand, if not consider, is whether you want a catalytic or a non-catalytic stove. My guess is that for your stated objective of enjoying the ambiance and not burning much for long term heat the right non-cat would perhaps be nicer for you (lots of visual to look at), however a cat stove can be 'turned down' more for longer burns that run cleaner - in the ultra-low burns you won't get the same amount of bright flame action.

As to size of stove to buy - If you have space in that room, I'd consider getting one that may be large enough to 'in theory' heat the whole house and that is designed well enough to run 24/7. Unless you are set against it there is a chance you may find yourself moving in that direction in a couple years once you get the hang of burning and if you have the right stove it may not be nearly as difficult to do as you imagine. Of course the economics of it depends on your wood sources and how much you enjoy working with the wood.

So - how is that wood pile looking?
 
ToastyToes said:
The house was built around 1969. The floor plan is not great for airflow. The lower level will be OK, and we do have an open stairwell so some hot air will go up to the living room and kitchen/dining upstairs. The upstairs bedrooms will not benefit much.

You may be very surprised at how much heat rises. I also thought that my second story bedrooms wouldn't benefit as I thought my floorplan wouldn't be great for airflow so bought a stove primarily for supplemental heat and am already looking to upgrade to a bigger stove. Our stove is in the basement and we just have a fan shooting air down the basement stairs and it works great.
 
With a 2 cu ft stove in the midwest, don't worry too much about overheating. The Oslo would be a nice choice if looks + performance is the goal. If soapstone-like performance at a lower price is the goal, perhaps see if there is a Pacific Energy dealer and check out the Alderlea T5 as another option. Or if there is a Quadrafire dealer nearby, perhaps the Cumberland Gap?
 
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