Help! Pellet stove newbie with BIG problems!

[begreen]

I have now seen significant heat distribution and pellet use improvement --

I have a question about the blown in insulation: since this is a 100 year old house, I'm pretty sure that the wall studs use "balloon framing" -- i.e., one solid 20' stud that goes from first to second story. I'm pretty sure that this construction has no between floor stops, as in newer houses. I'm thinking that insulation blown in from the second story would go all the way straight down to the first story since the wall studs are open between first and second floors. This could cut the time drilling (and number of) holes as blow-in insertion points.

That's great news Mark. What are your outside temps now?

It's hard to predict how old houses are built sometimes. Our old farmhouse has some creative variances from what one might expect. When they blow in insulation, they should drop a small weight on a string, down into each wall cavity. If it hits a block, they drill another hole underneath the block and blown in some more there. Try to find a crew with a great reputation for thorough work and good cleanup. A poor contractor may leave you with several voids and a mess to clean up.

BTW, the interior shrinkable storm windows do work, if applied correctly. We used them for several years. Be sure you get good fresh 3M tape and apply it to a clean surface with no flaky paint. You can also make your own storm windows with heavy clear vinyl. We had a dozen of them that I would put up until the remodel. They were just basic wood frames with the vinyl stretched over them. Not the prettiest, but they did the job.

 

[MarkInPA]

Jotul,

Great insight into blowing in insulation and how to check for blocks. Also the using heavy clear vinyl!

We've held in the 30's last night and today. Very strong cold northerly winds yesterday. Still felt nice and warm downstairs, cooler (but acceptable) upstairs. 40 lbs of pellets used in a 24 hour period.

Meantime, got the oil furnace cleaned, tuned and ready to roar as necessary. Hopefully not too much o'dat.

Jabberwocky (love that username): fortunately we did buy a top of the line in the pellet stove. I'm glad we didn't scrimp there. The Harman P68 is a very fine stove. I agree you need to look at how much actual fuel was used in previous years. I believe that can be used as a basis to "ballpark" what it would take in pellet fuel to heat.

--Mark

 

[elkimmeg]

ikre an insulating contraxtor the provides along with his service an infired scan that will tell you how effective the insulation job went. It will expose voids

If you had visited a wiki section I have articles a primer to buying a stove and how to buy a used stove. I also take exception to you getting confused after the fact. the time to ask the questions is before the purchase not after it is made Had you detailed a post about your current situation and house layout .No doubt we would have advised you to insulate first. We probably would have given good advice about the best location And not just some science teacher advice.

There are two ways to lessen you dependence upon foreign fossil fuel One is an alternative heat source. the second one is preserving the heat generated and lessen it losses. Many here asked about your attic insulation situation yet you have failed to answer that question. In your zone if you do not have at least R30 you are deffecient . That is usually 9" Your greates heat loss is the attic ceiling. Do you have cellar floor joist insulation have you sealed the joist plates around the foundation ( a huge draft infiltration area)

Every response to you original post has been an effort to provide help

I did not get into the code discussion yet, but the responses are correct. That heat path is also an expressway in times of disaster.. You talk to your science teacher ask him what happens to warm lighter air when it bumps into cold heavy air Ask him which air is most effective moving mechanically Is it better to push light air into heavy air or remove hearier cool air to draw in warm replacement air. While at it ask him to s explain why it will not work and the need for a well thought out return path to accomplish cycle movement Supply = returns. Most people think in terms of moving warm air without much thought or removing the cold air Remove the cold air r lessen the resistance for warm air to fill the space left is the key That enough thought for now to develope further discussion.

Finally when you Harman was installed was it draft tested and adjusted? read you manual It is a requirement. Its not a safety issue but an efficiency issue something you seem to be lacking with that stove It takes a magnholic (I know I mis spelled it) connected to your stove and the set screw adjust your stove according to the draft reading there is even a place in your manual wher the installer should have recorded the draft readings This info is also helpfull and future referenced to troubleshoot and future issues with your stove

Let me know if this has been done