First, I really appreciate this forum as it pointed me to the FP-30 fireplace. I could use your help after running into an installation issue:
Background: We are finishing our basment and installing a zero clearance woodburing fireplace. When we originally built our home, we had class A chimney pipe run down to the basment past our gas fireplace on the main floor so it needed to be offset over to the side of the chimney. In the basement it drops down into a concrete alcove where the woodburning fireplace will go. Due to the existing 6" class A pipe being offset in the chimney, we need to connect the fireplace using two 30 degree elbows. The problem we are running into with the FP-30 is that it requires a 36" straight pipe out of the top of the fireplace for non-masonry chimneys before the first elbow. (PE says a 12" straight pipe is okay for masonry chimney's due to the thermal properties and absorption of heat, which makes sense but still seems strange). Apparently they are concerned with failure of the elbow if it is less than 36" above the top of the stove. This does not give us enough height left to angle over to the existing class A pipe. We could do it with a 24" straight pipe and then the first elbow but the installer won't sign off on using a 24" pipe since PE says this would be outside of their specs which I understand.
Couple of questions:
1.) Any idea on if there is 6" class A chimney pipe that is built more substantial than others which may mitigate this risk and possibly allow us to install the FP-30 or if there is flexible Class A chimney pipe which could work after the 36" straight pipe?
2.) We really like the design of the FP-30 as a non-catalytic model plus the blower kit to push air up to the main floor if we wanted to. I'm curious if the forum members could suggest any other models you would recommend similar to the FP-30 which use 6" class A pipe that have a nice blower kit available as well?
I'm tempted to order the FP-30 and just install it myself with a 24" straight pipe and take the risk since it seems minimal but also don't want to put our home and family at risk due to increased fire hazard.
Thanks for any suggestions or ideas!
-Brian
Background: We are finishing our basment and installing a zero clearance woodburing fireplace. When we originally built our home, we had class A chimney pipe run down to the basment past our gas fireplace on the main floor so it needed to be offset over to the side of the chimney. In the basement it drops down into a concrete alcove where the woodburning fireplace will go. Due to the existing 6" class A pipe being offset in the chimney, we need to connect the fireplace using two 30 degree elbows. The problem we are running into with the FP-30 is that it requires a 36" straight pipe out of the top of the fireplace for non-masonry chimneys before the first elbow. (PE says a 12" straight pipe is okay for masonry chimney's due to the thermal properties and absorption of heat, which makes sense but still seems strange). Apparently they are concerned with failure of the elbow if it is less than 36" above the top of the stove. This does not give us enough height left to angle over to the existing class A pipe. We could do it with a 24" straight pipe and then the first elbow but the installer won't sign off on using a 24" pipe since PE says this would be outside of their specs which I understand.
Couple of questions:
1.) Any idea on if there is 6" class A chimney pipe that is built more substantial than others which may mitigate this risk and possibly allow us to install the FP-30 or if there is flexible Class A chimney pipe which could work after the 36" straight pipe?
2.) We really like the design of the FP-30 as a non-catalytic model plus the blower kit to push air up to the main floor if we wanted to. I'm curious if the forum members could suggest any other models you would recommend similar to the FP-30 which use 6" class A pipe that have a nice blower kit available as well?
I'm tempted to order the FP-30 and just install it myself with a 24" straight pipe and take the risk since it seems minimal but also don't want to put our home and family at risk due to increased fire hazard.
Thanks for any suggestions or ideas!
-Brian
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