Help with thimble install

[PJP]

Hi Guys,

So I had to reline the chimney. Broke out the tiles, installed a new SS liner with the 1/2" blanket, mesh screen, etc. piped it in all the way to the stove and got an inspection. I installed the thimble wrong (and should be sitting on the chimney face instead of that brick framed wall and am looking for help on how to install it correctly (or if I even need it at all). The sweep said to break out the brick framed wall and seat the thimble on the chimney instead of where it is now (pictured below) but I am trying to find another way to do this without needing to break the brick wall. Doesn't the brick framed wall act as a heat shield bringing my clearances down to 6" on the connector pipe? There is an air gap around the snout going to the thimble right now (roughly 1.5") which is insulated with the blanket wrap insulation so it seems to me that I would be safe to burn but obviously want it all installed correctly.

There is going to be a 3.5" masonry wall with a 1" air gap on the left side of the single wall coming out of the thimble which technically should bring me down to 6" clearance for the stove pipe, correct?

Is the brick framed wall any benefit at all? Is there any way I can install this stove correctly without breaking out some of the wall? Can I just get rid of the insulated thimble all together because I have an air gap around my snout before it even hits that masonry wall? Does that masonry framed wall provide any clearance reduction at all? Thanks,

Peter

 

[bholler]

Hi Guys,

So I had to reline the chimney. Broke out the tiles, installed a new SS liner with the 1/2" blanket, mesh screen, etc. piped it in all the way to the stove and got an inspection. I installed the thimble wrong (and should be sitting on the chimney face instead of that brick framed wall and am looking for help on how to install it correctly (or if I even need it at all). The sweep said to break out the brick framed wall and seat the thimble on the chimney instead of where it is now (pictured below) but I am trying to find another way to do this without needing to break the brick wall. Doesn't the brick framed wall act as a heat shield bringing my clearances down to 6" on the connector pipe? There is an air gap around the snout going to the thimble right now (roughly 1.5") which is insulated with the blanket wrap insulation so it seems to me that I would be safe to burn but obviously want it all installed correctly.

There is going to be a 3.5" masonry wall with a 1" air gap on the left side of the single wall coming out of the thimble which technically should bring me down to 6" clearance for the stove pipe, correct?

Is the brick framed wall any benefit at all? Is there any way I can install this stove correctly without breaking out some of the wall? Can I just get rid of the insulated thimble all together because I have an air gap around my snout before it even hits that masonry wall? Does that masonry framed wall provide any clearance reduction at all? Thanks,

Peter

Your sweep is absolutely correct. You don't have enough masonry around that wall passthu. You need 12" because you don't have that you need to remove that brick and attach the thimble to the chimney.

 

[PJP]

Thanks for your relpy - much appreciated. Once that is done, am I just mortaring around the thimble or leaving an air gap? Also, how am I supposed to get pitch on my connector pipe (snout) if the thimble is flush with the chimney - would it not be coming out level? Thanks!

 

[bholler]

Thanks for your relpy - much appreciated. Once that is done, am I just mortaring around the thimble or leaving an air gap? Also, how am I supposed to get pitch on my connector pipe (snout) if the thimble is flush with the chimney - would it not be coming out level? Thanks!

Follow the directions for your thimble as far as how to finish it off. Yes it will be level. But that is fine.