HELP! I'm trying to figure out the safe way to install my Stove

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mhidpa

Member
Dec 9, 2014
8
TN
I've lurked on here on and off for a few years. I'm finally getting to the culmination of a long process and I'm starting to get paranoid. This all started when we were renovating our house. Originally, there was a wood furnace in the basement with a vent straight into the living room floor. Our contractor cut into the chimney on the main floor and installed a 8.25" ID clay crock/thimble because we wanted a wood stove in the future. At the time I knew nothing about wood stoves/clearances/etc. The chimney is clay lined 6X6 tiles.

A while back I got an Englander 13NC, and it has been sitting for a while waiting on me to get a hearth pad built. I had an appropriate pad built Micore and tile based on reading this site. Now the stove is in place and I need to connect it to my chimney, this is where I'm getting paranoid. I've read the post about crock thimbles and how they might be installed incorrectly, but I have no way to check. We have a rock wall up where the stove/thimble go, and the chimney side is brick, so I don't know what is in the middle with the framing. I've had 2 different installers come and quote an install, but nobody has mentioned a method of connecting. I live in NE TN, so there aren't many people around who deal with stoves for heating and I'm not sure how qualified the installers are. Is there any kind of insulated thimble that will fit into my existing crock? Is something like this what I need? I would prefer to DIY if I can, but I also don't want to burn my house down.
 
What is behind the rock wall, brick or stud wall? The thimble (crock) needs to have 12" of brick around it, protecting it from all combustibles. If that is not the case then the crock should come out and an insulated thimble installed. More info available here:

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Before going further, the flue should be checked for integrity and to see if it meets stove requirements. How high is the chimney from the new crock to the top? Was the furnace hole bricked closed so that it is fully sealed? If there is a cleanout door, that will need to be sealed too. This can be done by making a temporary gasket with silicone sealant. Put a bead around the rim of the door and close it. Let that set up.
 
Post some pics of your setup if you can.
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What is behind the rock wall, brick or stud wall? The thimble (crock) needs to have 12" of brick around it, protecting it from all combustibles. If that is not the case then the crock should come out and an insulated thimble installed. More info available here:

View attachment 321970

Before going further, the flue should be checked for integrity and to see if it meets stove requirements. How high is the chimney from the new crock to the top? Was the furnace hole bricked closed so that it is fully sealed? If there is a cleanout door, that will need to be sealed too. This can be done by making a temporary gasket with silicone sealant. Put a bead around the rim of the door and close it. Let that set up.
It's Rock, then studs, then brick. It's an external wall with a brick chimney. I have read the post you linked, that's what I was talking about that got me concerned. Right now I can't remember what they did inside the wall. I'm going to look through receipts and see if I can find anything. I was hoping that I could just put a thimble inside the crock, since it is 8" and I only need 6" pipe...

The 2 companies who have come out have looked at the chimney didn't indicate that there was any problem with the flue.

I will seal the clean out in the basement. RTV is ok for that? It's approximately 10-12' from the thimble to the top of the chimney.
 
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Unfortunately, there's no way we can tell how close the studs are but it wouldn't surprise me if they are less than 12 " away. I'm not sure if one of the new, fancy stud detectors like a Walabot could locate them.

The 13NC needs at least 16' of vertical flue to draft well. Try to avoid 90º turns in the flue connection.
 
I have a home inspector friend, I was thinking about seeing if he had an inspection bore scope to go into the wall and see what I can find.
 
As you can see the stove is off center from the thimble. I was planning on coming up, making a 90 to horizontal then a 45 into the thimble.
 
As you can see the stove is off center from the thimble. I was planning on coming up, making a 90 to horizontal then a 45 into the thimble.
Try to do this without the 90º, maybe with a 45 off of the flue collar to an adjustable elbow at the thimble.