How do you know when to change a bar? How do you know when the chain just can't be sharpened anymore?
Unless you making a race chain and thats where it starts.lololl. As for the bar most will chuck them when the groove is worn out and you notice the saw cutting curves. It is possible to tighten up the groove and true up the edge but bars aren't all that expensive so most just replace. But unless you use a chainsaw everyday I doubt you could ever wear one out. I seen them worn but they were used above average for 20+yrs. I'll bet more are replaced from damage than wear. Remember to grease the sproket.There is an angled mark on the top of the cutter ( witness mark) once your down to that its over.
How do you know when to change a bar? How do you know when the chain just can't be sharpened anymore?
How do you know when to change a bar?
How do you know when to change a bar? How do you know when the chain just can't be sharpened anymore?
Generally, when all the "ladies" there know you by name and know your favorite position, it's time to find a new bar.
Not to sound like a complete rookie but the sprocket is the part of the saw that rotates the chain? What type of grease should i use?
Stihl Rollomatic bars. No grease required......1) You already sound like a rookie
2) They're talking about the sprocket on the nose of the bar. I have no idea what grease to use because I've never greased one.
Stihl Rollomatic bars. No grease required......
Not to sound like a complete rookie but the sprocket is the part of the saw that rotates the chain? What type of grease should i use?
There are 2, one on the end of the bar, and 1 on the saw itself.
The bar sprocket is an idler, keep it clean, you can even add some bar and chain oil if it's off the saw and the chain is off, but it's not necessary. Just make sure it spins freely.
Some top end bars have removable ends/serviceable sprockets, I'm pretty sure you don't.
The saw powerhead has the drive sprocket, they wear from normal use and really quickly if you try to run the wrong pitch chain. Not familiar with Husky but some newer sprockets are held together with a snap ring, some require unthreading from the end of the cranshaft to replace. No grease here either. Any excessive wear will be noticeable.
Again, 1 new drive sprocket on my 041 in 30 years.
Don't be afraid to ask all the questions here that you need to, we were all rookies once.
I replaced the drive sprocket on my saws when I bought them but they were used and new to me. The drive sprockets have wear lines so you can see when they need to be replaced. If you aren't sure then look at a pic online and you can see what they look like new. If yours doesn't have the wear lines then its worn out. Over tightening the chain can also result in abnormal wear.
My big rookie mistake was over tightening the nuts that hold the bar on. I was under the impression that tightening them with all i had was the only way to go. I stripped the stud out of the saw. I took it to a local saw shop and they helicoiled the stud.
I replaced the drive sprocket on my saws when I bought them but they were used and new to me. The drive sprockets have wear lines so you can see when they need to be replaced. If you aren't sure then look at a pic online and you can see what they look like new. If yours doesn't have the wear lines then its worn out. Over tightening the chain can also result in abnormal wear.
My big rookie mistake was over tightening the nuts that hold the bar on. I was under the impression that tightening them with all i had was the only way to go. I stripped the stud out of the saw. I took it to a local saw shop and they helicoiled the stud.
that'll do it. I've seen that before too.I had a strange problem with my 041 once. When I tightened the chain cover the chain would bind, I could barely pull it around the bar by hand. When left only snug it was fine. Found one of the studs was not fully seated in the powerhead. Caused the bar to missalign and forced the chain against the chainguide on the inside of the cover.
Live and learn.
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