How do you know when to change a bar? How do you know when the chain just can't be sharpened anymore?
How do you know when to change a bar?
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There is an angled mark on the top of the cutter ( witness mark) once your down to that its over.
Unless you making a race chain and thats where it starts.lololl. As for the bar most will chuck them when the groove is worn out and you notice the saw cutting curves. It is possible to tighten up the groove and true up the edge but bars aren't all that expensive so most just replace. But unless you use a chainsaw everyday I doubt you could ever wear one out. I seen them worn but they were used above average for 20+yrs. I'll bet more are replaced from damage than wear. Remember to grease the sproket.
Every 3-4 tankfuls I flip the bar,check for any burs that need filed off & grease the sprocket.Sooner if the wood is really dry or abrasive.Chain gets 2-3 strokes with the file every tankful depending on wood,if its frozen etc.
I bought a bar for my saw because it was 1/2 price from being out of the packaging and taped back shut at TSC. Kind of an impulse purchase because I cannot walk through a TSC w/o checking out the saw section. It is still sitting where I put it a year ago and I may never need it with the amount of cutting I do. I just thought of it as cheap insurance if I ever get the saw caught and bend my original. Or if I do the truck thing 
Bars last a long time with proper care. The bar on my 041 was replaced twice in 30 years. Dressed the rails once a year or so, flipped it just about every time the chain was off. Found the rails wore enough that the drivelink bottomed out in the grove. Biggest thing is keep the chain sharp (a dull chain will wear the bar faster) use the correct chain lube and enough of it, and clean the grooves, oil holes, and nose sprocket whenever you can. I average about 1 chain a year cutting 7 or 8 cords. I have several for each saw, and end up tossing 1 per season. You should take a good look at your drive sprocket as well, you will probably need to replace that before you need a bar.
I've only replaced my bars when they were crushed/bent beyond repair by a falling tree. I had a bar get pinched by the wind once and went to get my other saw and a tool to remove the bar. When I got back 10 min later the tree had fallen and the bar looked like an S. I put it in a vise and straightened it the best I could but it was mostly toast. I kept it hanging on the wall as a reminder and could use it in a pinch if I had to but thats the only reason I needed a new one.
Generally, when all the "ladies" there know you by name and know your favorite position, it's time to find a new bar.
Not to sound like a complete rookie but the sprocket is the part of the saw that rotates the chain? What type of grease should i use?
Bars last a long time unless they get run without oil. A chain can't be sharpened any more when the cutting teeth are gone.
Generally, when all the "ladies" there know you by name and know your favorite position, it's time to find a new bar.
we have a winner
You can double the life of your bar by cleaning the rails out every time you cut a decent amount of wood. The rails accumulate chips and dirt and eventually clog up enough where your chain doesn't get enough oil, that's when the bar starts to wear. Use a thin piece of metal like a feeler gauge or an old utility knife. Also its a good idea to buy a machined bar rather than a laminated bar.....machined bars last twice as long IMHO.
1) You already sound like a rookie
2) They're talking about the sprocket on the nose of the bar. I have no idea what grease to use because I've never greased one.
Waitaminit. . . this is 2012. Are you saying people are still buying saws that require extra special bar care?
There are 2, one on the end of the bar, and 1 on the saw itself.
The bar sprocket is an idler, keep it clean, you can even add some bar and chain oil if it's off the saw and the chain is off, but it's not necessary. Just make sure it spins freely.
Some top end bars have removable ends/serviceable sprockets, I'm pretty sure you don't.
The saw powerhead has the drive sprocket, they wear from normal use and really quickly if you try to run the wrong pitch chain. Not familiar with Husky but some newer sprockets are held together with a snap ring, some require unthreading from the end of the cranshaft to replace. No grease here either. Any excessive wear will be noticeable.
Again, 1 new drive sprocket on my 041 in 30 years.
Don't be afraid to ask all the questions here that you need to, we were all rookies once.
I replaced the drive sprocket on my saws when I bought them but they were used and new to me. The drive sprockets have wear lines so you can see when they need to be replaced. If you aren't sure then look at a pic online and you can see what they look like new. If yours doesn't have the wear lines then its worn out. Over tightening the chain can also result in abnormal wear.
My big rookie mistake was over tightening the nuts that hold the bar on. I was under the impression that tightening them with all i had was the only way to go. I stripped the stud out of the saw. I took it to a local saw shop and they helicoiled the stud.
Wow, He-Man! lol. Yeah they only need to be tightened to German specs. Gudentite!
I had a strange problem with my 041 once. When I tightened the chain cover the chain would bind, I could barely pull it around the bar by hand. When left only snug it was fine. Found one of the studs was not fully seated in the powerhead. Caused the bar to missalign and forced the chain against the chainguide on the inside of the cover.
Live and learn.
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