I made my decision

Well, I went ahead and bought my wood stove. After months of research I decided on an Osburn 2400 with 20' of 6" 316ti flex pipe through my existing masonry chimney. First off thanks to all those who gave me advice on this board and thru PM's. It was all very helpful. Over the last 2 days I've managed to scavenge up aver 2 cords of wood. Not bad for my first 2 days. The flex pipe showed up the day after i ordered it. Unfortunately they forgot the directions, but are sending them out in ther mail. Flex liners are all pretty much installed the same, right? Use high-temp silicone on the top cap, keep at least 1 inch clearance between the pipe and the masonry. My other question is do I need to use hign temp silicone on the flex connections to the stove and at the top where the cap meets the top plate? They have quick connections (pipe clamp style). Any other advice anyone has would be great. Thanks again to all. I'll let you know how it works out.

1 inch between the pipe and masonry - I think that is the wrong interpretation. I myself was confused about the one inch clearance - as I understand it is not between the pipe and masonry (or else the install will in most all cases be impossible without insulation or spacers), but rather 1 inch between the masonry outside and any combustibles. That includes any framing members which might come in contact with the masonry (like in the attic.) Somebody else here can confirm if my interpretation is correct.

For what it's worth, all silicone will withstand roughly the same temp. The high temp stuff is just colored red.

Be sure to post some pictures and fill us in on how you are getting along with your new stove.

Let me clear up some issues Ideal is inch air space around the liner to masoney clay flue Its not a clearance to
combustiables issues but rather air space to allow dissipation of heat ant for normal expansion and contraction Most installers use spacers to insure the air space and also to provide support.

The caulk at the top can be the normal 500 degree RTV caulk. The connection to the flue collar must be refactory cement or 136 Firestop sealant and be able to withstand 1250 degrees. I also use this same 1250 plus degree caulk to seal the damper plate area