I need some help before I lose it.

[ohlongarm]

As we all know woodburning is fast approaching,I will be starting my third season with my BK,King Ultra.Now here's my dilemma I'm running my King with double wall pipe eight inch from the stove to where it makes a 45 into a masonry chimney,then the liner stainless eight inch to the chimney cap.I'm running the minimum chimney requirement for this stove which is twelve feet,all I want to do this season is add four more feet on to the existing chimney to increase my draft by 33/1/3% which judging from the way the stove has performed will be perfect.Now here's the problem I inquired at two local stove shops ,you'd of thought I asked for the moon,quotes of $675,to $750 for the job,or extend the masonry chimney by four feet $2500,I don't know what I'm doing when it comes to any job requiring tools,etc but somehow this doesn't add up,is this that hard of a task?one place said I have to use insulated pipe ,one double wall stainless what gives does anyone know what I'm trying to accomplish,and how to do it without a major undertaking.I would like the add on chimney to be black if possible ,both shops said however it's done it's Jerryrigging at best?Any ideas before I lose my freaking mind.

 

[My Oslo heats my home]

Was your draft that bad that you need to do this project at all? From what the shops are saying, the money issue would be a deal breaker for me.

 

[DexterDay]

If the liner extends out a little, it can be done pretty easy. But as they said. It will "riggin it"

My suggestion is to buy a good double wall Class A section and cap to fit. Then mount it to the chimney top using 90 brackets, (small 3/8 screws into chimney section and tap-con into the masonry. Making sure the liner goes into the Class A and sealing with Furnace cement or the likes of? Add a cap and call it a days

I know they make pieces to go from "hard" pipe to "flex". So maybe there is an easier way. Lots of people extend there flies out of masonry around here. Most just look like single wall sticking up about 4'. And they may work, but insulating it or using Class A would be best. As you would get a significant amount of build up in that single wall section, that's exposed to the Winters elements (cold air + cold steel = condensing and cooling gases / not good) .

 

[Hogwildz]

I believe there is an adapter made to go from flex to rigid. If you can get one of those you will be fine. Might need a new top plate, clamp/bracket & cap assy for the rigid. If you go with the double wall insulated rigid, that would be ideal.

 

[Hogwildz]

Here is what you need.... a transition anchor plate for up top, then you run additional Class A from there.

http://www.ventingpipe.com/index.cfm?page=search:browse&r=96&searched=search:browse&term=transition anchor plate&f3378=Wood

Not really rigged, but not cheap either

Another option. You could use this and crimp the bottom edge to fit into the existing liner top & secure with screws.

http://www.stovesdirect.com/product-sku-9441-m-DuraTech-b-M+G+Duravent-c-Transition+Components.html