Ideas to repair my chimney top cap?

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Eng5ive

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Oct 3, 2015
64
06096
When I installed my P35i a few months ago it went pretty smoothly. The only hangup was attaching my top cap. The liner was run up the flue where I attached everything. However the curve from the liner was putting a lot or torque, wanting to twist the top cap. I went ahead and installed it anyways with some weights to secure it while the caulk dried. It held up until about a week ago but apparently it's popped off. I'm wondering what the best way to repair this is. Obviously more caulk won't hold it again. Any suggestions on the best way to secure this? There are some pictures attached where you can see how the top T is angled, plus where it popped off the flue.
 

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You probably can't drill down into the liner but if you can through the side you could hold it down with an L bracket. Big enough to away from the edge of the liner and on top to clear the liner and put a self tapper into the metal cap.
 
Short term, get a few paver bricks to weight it down till next summer. Have a metal shop fab up a better heavier cap that would include some lip down the side.
 
Short term, get a few paver bricks to weight it down till next summer. Have a metal shop fab up a better heavier cap that would include some lip down the side.

I used pavers to weight it down when I caulked it to the top of the chimney. I'm going to take a ride up to the store where I purchased the stove and see if they have any advice.

Also looking at this product even though I'd rather not spend 150$ on it...seems like a good solution plus easy cleaning: http://chimneylinerdepot.com/produc...4in-x-13in-x-13in/#tab-additional_information
 
Could you detach the liner from the stove end, then pull it out of the chimney a few feet to straighten it? That's what I'd be doing so things will stay put.
 
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I wouldn't drill your clay chimney liner. Asking for trouble there. Plus they are not that thick and may just crack trying to hammer drill it. What about taking the cap off and shortening your metal liner? Trim it with some snipes as needed so it will lay down. You say you have a twist there or angle so you may just need to cut on a bevel to get it plumb with the existing clay pipe and chimney top.

What type of "caulk" did you use? They make adhesive silicones that once cured will hold about anything but it is more expensive. Some caulks are cheap and have weak bonding properties.

Another option would be to get a local fab like Bio suggests or welding shop to make a square angle to fit your clay pipe that would build it up just a bit and then attach to that with your cap and metal which is coming unglued. Say 1 1/2 inch x 1 1/2 inch angle.
 
We use chimney cap adhesive which look and acts just like liquid nails adhesive. Never used a silicone sealant. Once the liquid nails sets up you pretty much destroy the stainless cap trying to pry it up
 
Yeah, Liquid Nails or equivalent would work fine too as it is pretty much so water proof too. A PL brand rubberized caulk or Solar Seal would work much better than an ordinary caulk also.

I think the issue causing it to not sit level should be fixed first. Duct Tape and WD-40 go a long ways some times but a temporary fix is just that. Temporary, which makes perfect sense as Bio is referring to until you have the time and good weather to do it right.
 
I have the deluxe Terra cotta cap and it works better than those flat ones
It flips open for easy cleaning.
Don't try to screw it down it will split the Terra cotta, I don't think glue is the correct way to go either.
 
Sorry been a busy weekend. I really don't want to drill into my flue or the brick as I just paid a lot of money to have it sealed last summer. I know there is a better solution or that I screwed up somewhere. I used DAP concrete mortar and masonry silicone, thinking to use something that wouldn't damage the top of the flue. It's really looking like I just used the wrong type of adhesive.

Think I'm going to try again using that deluxe terra cotta cap which will also be helpful for cleaning.
 
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