IF IT AIN'T BROKE, DON'T CLEAN IT!

[EZsteve]

Doing my usual weekly cleaning this morning and I remembered that in my manual it recommended to clean the proof of fire switch once a year and I did not do it in my yearly cleaning. So no big deal two screws and wipe down with a clean towel and I am done. Get done with weekly cleaning, put stove back together and fire it up. Blazing fire going while it goes through the start up and Then it stops feeding and fire goes out. Tried it twice more same results. So I pulled out the manual out checked the wire diagram and by-passed the proof of fire switch and been burning ever since. So maybe some things should not be cleaned, if it ain't broke don't clean it!

Now i have to order a $50 part that was working fine before I cleaned it.

 

[tony58]

IF IT AIN’T BROKE, DON’T CLEAN IT!

Sounds like something I would do...

 

[flynfrfun]

Hey...somebody else with my luck! I thought I was the only one... :lol: Tinker until complete destruction is my motto.

 

[heat seeker]

If it ain't broke, I haven't tried fixing it yet!

I'd say the POF switch was ready to go anyway, so you probably did yourself a favor and killed it before cold weather hits.

You might look, next time, at Grainger's selection of switches. I got one for my St Croix for something like $15. I think that most of the snap switches are off-the-shelf industrial items. Mine are.

 

[EZsteve]

If it ain't broke, I haven't tried fixing it yet!

I'd say the POF switch was ready to go anyway, so you probably did yourself a favor and killed it before cold weather hits.

You might look, next time, at Grainger's selection of switches. I got one for my St Croix for something like $15. I think that most of the snap switches are off-the-shelf industrial items. Mine are.

Thanks heat seeker, I haven't bought yet. Saw your post and went to graingers web site and they have alot that look like mine. The manual says mine closes @140°. The problem is all the ones @grainer say open @X°. Tried to find the specs on factory one to match the ones @grainer. Can any one help me with this?

The ones @grainer are only $5 compared to $50 from a stove store.

 

[heat seeker]

The numbers on the switch tell you its action points. Something like the number F110-20 F tells me it's normally open (the F), the close point (110ºF) and the open point (110-20 = 90º). I bought one for my stove, and it works perfectly. I had to modify the ears a bit to mount it. The switch was meant to go into a hole in a duct, my stove has a surface mount. Took me all of 5 minutes to mod, saved some $, and have a fast and convenient source.

Is there any info on your old switch? Like numbers, etc?

ETA: try looking some more in Grainger's - I think you were in the wrong section of switches.

ETA: corrected my bad spelling

 

[EZsteve]

The numbers on the switch tell you its action points. Something like the number F110-20 F tells me it's normally open (the F), the close point (110ºF) and the open point (110-20 = 90º). I bought one for my stove, and it works perfectly. I had to modify the ears a bit to mount it. The switch was meant to go into a hole in a duct, mine stove is a surface mount. Tool me all of 5 minutes to mod, saved some $, and have a fast and convenient source.

Is there any info on your old switch? Like numbers, etc?

ETA: try looking some more in Grainger's - I think you were in the wrong section of switches.

Yeah I think I found the right one, opens @180° and closes @140°. It only cost $5 and I can pick it up at their store tomorrow. Mine goes in the hole in the duct so I think it will screw right in. Thanks for the info, I will let you know how it works.

 

[heat seeker]

Yours may work differently, of course, but my POF switch closes on temperature rise. Just make sure you're getting the right style.

Jumping your switch got the stove to work, so I suspect you might need a "close on rise" type switch. Heck at that price, get one of each if you're uncertain.

 

[SmokeyTheBear]

The numbers on the switch tell you its action points. Something like the number F110-20 F tells me it's normally open (the F), the close point (110ºF) and the open point (110-20 = 90º). I bought one for my stove, and it works perfectly. I had to modify the ears a bit to mount it. The switch was meant to go into a hole in a duct, mine stove is a surface mount. Tool me all of 5 minutes to mod, saved some $, and have a fast and convenient source.

Is there any info on your old switch? Like numbers, etc?

ETA: try looking some more in Grainger's - I think you were in the wrong section of switches.

Yeah I think I found the right one, opens @180° and closes @140°. It only cost $5 and I can pick it up at their store tomorrow. Mine goes in the hole in the duct so I think it will screw right in. Thanks for the info, I will let you know how it works.

The low limit switches close at a higher temperature than they open the switch you describe isn't what you want.

 

[EZsteve]

Ok ordered another one. It says close on rise @140°. Looks just like the other one. The grainer #is 6ued8. It cost $8.50.

 

[heat seeker]

That 6ued8 sounds more like it! Closes at 140º, opens at 120º.