I'll try this again.....

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PAbowhunter

Member
Oct 19, 2018
72
PA
I'm new here but have been lurking for some time. I have a hearthstone manchester stove with a chimney I'd approximate at 15 ft. For those unfamiliar its cast iron but the stove top is ribbed and separated from the firebox. (Sorry if I'm unfamiliar with terms and explaining this poorly)
I'm using cherry and oak that I have verified is under 20% moisture by splitting and testing. I can burn a hot fire or at least I think so and the stove really throws some heat but isn't doing as much as I'd like. I have a few concerns
1. The installer said to place the homesaver thermometer on the stovetop but that to me seems strange since its insulated from the fire and I can never get it out of the creosote range. Where should I place it on this stove?
2. The installer said not to touch the flue damper... I find that the stove retains more heat if i use it but i could be making this up. Should i avoid using it? Does using it have any adverse effect on the chimney?
3. I see some of you posting pictures of what I would call an inferno. Do you maintain your fire that way? Is that how you're keeping the temp high?
Sorry for 1 million questions I just dont want to make all different threads. Any help is appreciated
 
Why is there a pipe damper if the installer said not to use it?
 
You would be better off with a flue thermometer. Is this single-wall or double-wall stove pipe? How far down are you turning the air and at what point?
 
Why is there a pipe damper if the installer said not to use it?
That's a fantastic question. I wasnt home when it was installed unfortunately so it could be, and most probably is, that my fiance misunderstood these instructions

You would be better off with a flue thermometer. Is this single-wall or double-wall stove pipe? How far down are you turning the air and at what point?
It is a double wall stove pipe. I've been turning the air down to about half after the fire has been going good for a half hour. Then I'll play with it after that between cutting the air off with the pipe damper and the stoves damper trying to find out what the stove likes
 
My suggestions . . .

Get a probe style thermometer for double wall pipe. I find I can control my stove much, much better by watching the flue temp vs. stove temp. Watching the flue temp lets me know when I can start dialing back the air and when I should leave it running wide open.

I would keep the stove pipe damper wide open and not bother with it . . . especially with such a short run of chimney. Control your stove with the amount of wood you put into it . . . and to a lesser degree the air control on the stove. When I first started out burning I would bring my stove to temp and then start cutting back the air in quarter mark increments . . . bringing it as low as I could go without the fire burning out or having the temp go below the safe zone.

The "secondary" burn ("the inferno") is reached once the stove temp is sufficiently hot enough . . . and then the air control is reduced . . . and that's when folks tend to start to really feel the heat.
 
It is a double wall stove pipe. I've been turning the air down to about half after the fire has been going good for a half hour. Then I'll play with it after that between cutting the air off with the pipe damper and the stoves damper trying to find out what the stove likes
Hey just remember while learning the stove any air adjustments that are made take about 15-20min to go fully into effect.
 
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I took both of your advice and am currently burning with the flue damper wide open and I have the air dialed back to about 1/4. Stove is at 400 and I'm getting a good secondary burn or at least I think so. I believe that I was messing with the air controls to much and really did need to wait that 20 minutes to see how the fire reacted. I didnt know it would take that long to see any significant change. Is a flue thermometer something I can install myself? I did not do the chimney install but I do almost all other work on my house myself
 
I took both of your advice and am currently burning with the flue damper wide open and I have the air dialed back to about 1/4. Stove is at 400 and I'm getting a good secondary burn or at least I think so. I believe that I was messing with the air controls to much and really did need to wait that 20 minutes to see how the fire reacted. I didnt know it would take that long to see any significant change. Is a flue thermometer something I can install myself? I did not do the chimney install but I do almost all other work on my house myself
Yes. You will need to drill a hole in your stove pipe roughly 18” up from the top of the stove. Slide your new fancy probe thermometer in and your done.
 
Show us a picture of your set up....
Yes. You will need to drill a hole in your stove pipe roughly 18” up from the top of the stove. Slide your new fancy probe thermometer in and your done.
And dont forget to pul it when you clean the pipe!
 
Nice and I am as assuming the thermometer is a pretty tight fit so I wont have to worry about smoke coming back into the room?
This is a picture of the stove while it's not running

[Hearth.com] I'll try this again.....
 
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Nice and I am as assuming the thermometer is a pretty tight fit so I wont have to worry about smoke coming back into the room?
This is a picture of the stove while it's not running

View attachment 231946
There will not be any smoke coming back into the room...there is a magnet on the back that holds it tight to the pipe and also holds the probe tight.
 
Would it work okay just an inch or two up? With my setup that’s all I have before the flue disappears into the masonry chimney.
I dont understand the inch or 2...it needs to be 16-18 inches from the top of stove...
 
Here is a couple pics of mine...it has been my experience that it needs pulled every so often and cleaned...to keep it from being very difficult to remove...emory cloth...steel wool..or the like will work.
 

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Here is a link to the one I use for my 6 in.double wall pipe...it is the Condar FlueGuard 4 in model
 
Would it work okay just an inch or two up? With my setup that’s all I have before the flue disappears into the masonry chimney.
I don’t believe you will get accurate readings.
 
That would be behind 12 inches of masonry. I simply can’t get a thermometer that high up.
ooooops...I thought that was your stove in the picture above...lol
 
So question is would it be better to have inaccurate readings or no readings?
I guess you could assume it’s going to read hotter than it should. This may screw with your operating habits possibly...idk. It would be nice to hear from someone with more knowledge on the matter.
 
3. I see some of you posting pictures of what I would call an inferno. Do you maintain your fire that way? Is that how you're keeping the temp high?

That's usually peak show view, the second half of a burn is not usually very impressive or picture-worthy. Unless you're into glowing coals.
 
Here is a link to the one I use for my 6 in.double wall pipe...it is the Condar FlueGuard 4 in model
Would you recommend that therm I'll meter or are there others I should look at?

3. I see some of you posting pictures of what I would call an inferno. Do you maintain your fire that way? Is that how you're keeping the temp high?

That's usually peak show view, the second half of a burn is not usually very impressive or picture-worthy. Unless you're into glowing coals.
Good to know I thought I was doing something wrong or something haha

By the way I appreciate all the replies this thread has been real helpful to me
 
Would you recommend that therm I'll meter or are there others I should look at?


Good to know I thought I was doing something wrong or something haha

By the way I appreciate all the replies this thread has been real helpful to me
I sure like mine and have had no issues with it...many people on here use it and like it.