pybyr said:Not to be downbeat, but is the other side of the wall below grade? I ask because of the PVC drain I see to the right in the photo, which I'd usually expect to exit below grade. Keeping a flue warm is important to maintaining an effective draft, so some attention may need to go to making sure that the concrete wall and the outdoor surroundings that it emerges into don't represent a huge "heat sink" that cools the flue too much. A tall flue may, depending on lots of variables, balance out in the other direction.
Good luck
huffdawg said:A diamond toothed chainsaw works good for that, but you do get water and exhaust smoke everywhere.
pybyr said:Not to be downbeat, but is the other side of the wall below grade? I ask because of the PVC drain I see to the right in the photo, which I'd usually expect to exit below grade. Keeping a flue warm is important to maintaining an effective draft, so some attention may need to go to making sure that the concrete wall and the outdoor surroundings that it emerges into don't represent a huge "heat sink" that cools the flue too much. A tall flue may, depending on lots of variables, balance out in the other direction.
Good luck
hiker88 said:pybyr said:Not to be downbeat, but is the other side of the wall below grade? I ask because of the PVC drain I see to the right in the photo, which I'd usually expect to exit below grade. Keeping a flue warm is important to maintaining an effective draft, so some attention may need to go to making sure that the concrete wall and the outdoor surroundings that it emerges into don't represent a huge "heat sink" that cools the flue too much. A tall flue may, depending on lots of variables, balance out in the other direction.
Good luck
Can someone explain this in more detail to me? I'll have a similar setup for my chimney. It's better to go below grade right? I understand you can only go so far below due to the height of the appliance, but are we saying the lower the better?
Thanks.
hiker88 said:Where there's a will...
What are we looking out into? The garage maybe?
bigburner said:Used to in stall PVC ducts [large fans 50 to 100 HP] for factory platting systems, we always had the hole penetration done by "others" when we got there. seen the same method used for a 48" hole threw a 10" deck. That about killed the maintenance guy. We core every thing now, it amazing how cheap it is. Last week we did some soil bearing verification in an existing bar, I had the local people come in early with two men they did, three 12" holes for 235 bucks.
hiker88 said:What are you going with for a chimney. I assume some brand of stainless. I'm trying to decide between a SS chimney and Isokern.
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