INSTALLER DIDNT DRAFT CHECK MY PELLET STOVE, SHOULD I WORRY?

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There is quite a difference between a power venter and a direct vented appliance

Ok the only way this stove can be set up efficiently a magnaholic, ( I know I miss spelled it ), draft indicator is attached threw the access panel

within that panel there is a set screw adjustment set according to the voltage in and measuring the draft. It fine tunes the stove's efficiency

Similar to what a timing light is used to correctly set you're car timing. The car may still run, skip, hesitate ,burn fuel inefficiently, have no acceleration, cough backfire, but still runs.
But till that light gage is used you are only guessing the correct final adjustment. You need that gage to fine tune and dial it in
 
I've lost track... Oh yeah, To answer the original poster, I wouldn't worry too much about the fact that the draft test was not done. I do it every time and always get the same results. I have never had a low voltage scenario yet. But, the test is meant to ensure that the fan voltage is set within factory specs since the voltages vary from home to home. The stove will work fine. The overall efficiency of the burn may be a little less than possible in some cases but otherwise the stove will work fine. If you think the heat output is less than you want I suspect the reason is elsewhere. You may have to do some trial-and-error settings until you get the results you want.

Also, did the installer install a proper block-off plate? Outside air?

I agree with those here who object to the dealer not doing this test and owning the equipment to do so. It's pathetic, really. It hurts us all in the business when dealers are so unprofessional. I also agree that Harman, and any other manufacturer, should provide a means to help the end consumer when the dealer is unprofessional. What is the consumer to do if the dealer won't do his/her job?

Sean
 
This thread is getting out of hand - I am seeing excessive levels of personal attacks, and non-relevant discussion.

As a reminder, the original topic of this thread dealt with the performance of a draft test on the OP's stove. That is all that should really be discussed in this thread, and I am going to start deleting or editing posts in this topic that are not relevant to the subject.

When Web made me a moderator, he said the rule is generally to use a light touch, but IMHO this is getting out of hand.

What Mike or anyone else does for a living is NOT RELEVANT.

Harman's customer service, or lack thereof has been sufficiently beat upon.

The failures of the dealer in question are relevant, but discussing them doesn't lead to a solution.

So lets focus down on

1. Helping KABP solve his problem - how does he get a draft test done, or fake it without one....

2. Being nice to each other...

Gooserider
 
Goose, feel free to delete the offending posts - the thread will still make sense - then close the thread if all questions have been answered.

Mike long ago told us what he does - in a general sense. After all, you don't work in the Nations capital building and walk down the beach with Senators if you are a hearth dealer. I'll bet "consultant" (my job title also) would probably fit....

Maybe his real name is Rudy Guliani...who knows? No matter how many times Harry has told me his real name, he's still Harryback to me......

Does bring up a point about "owning" your words, and I think we all do - but we also all say things we are a bit sorry about later (in the heat of conflict) - so let's move on....Goose, use that delete button, it's fun!

Makes me remember about one time Elk was waxing poetic about a get-together and our wives coming...and Eric said "yeah, that's exactly what my wife wants to do - meet my internet hearth buddies!".......
 
BTw, in most cases the dealer is the strongest link in the food chain. My stove shop is still there, and 99% of manufacturers who were there when we started are not there now. Harman buyers have constantly complained that they can get nowhere with the factory - that is common knowledge.

HarryBack is one of those few "cream" dealers who has invested millions in their biz, stocks hundreds of tons of pellets, services, installs and helps people out here and elsewhere for free. I know (sadly) this is the exception rather than the rule, but the only thing we can really do about it is give advice here and (we industry insiders) support the education and other programs of our trade org in order to bring the "unwashed masses" of dealers who still do not own a forklift or draft meter up to speed.

As a relatively "top" dealer (in the past" myself, I would not take offense at general critique of the dealer community - because while we were some of the best around, we still sucked (compared to a GOLD standard).....and, the selfish part of me always figured that if the other dealers were bad, that was MORE customers for me. Heck, it worked.....at least my bank account says so.
 
Webmaster said:
Goose, feel free to delete the offending posts - the thread will still make sense - then close the thread if all questions have been answered.

Mike long ago told us what he does - in a general sense. After all, you don't work in the Nations capital building and walk down the beach with Senators if you are a hearth dealer. I'll bet "consultant" (my job title also) would probably fit....

Maybe his real name is Rudy Guliani...who knows? No matter how many times Harry has told me his real name, he's still Harryback to me......

Does bring up a point about "owning" your words, and I think we all do - but we also all say things we are a bit sorry about later (in the heat of conflict) - so let's move on....Goose, use that delete button, it's fun!

Makes me remember about one time Elk was waxing poetic about a get-together and our wives coming...and Eric said "yeah, that's exactly what my wife wants to do - meet my internet hearth buddies!".......

Well, On your advice I've gone back and chopped the least relevant posts, mostly the ones dealing w/ Mikes job. However I mostly don't WANT to have to delete posts or otherwise moderate stuff - I figure it's better all the way around when it isn't needed. Thus I'm hoping that the warning and such will solve the problem.

I think what might be most useful now to wrap this up are either concrete suggestions on how to get the test done (since HB says the instructions on making the adjustments are in the manual, sounds like purchasing a meter or finding one to borrow will work on a DIY basis) or how to ballpark the adjustment w/o using the meter if that is possible.

Gooserider
 
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