Invincible RS freestanding Under burn problem

[Lousyweather]

the dipswitch is a red block on the board with several white pencilswitches on it. For your particular stove, all of those pencilswitches should be in the "down" position......and it might be a darn good idea to check this......sometimes they are flipped in error, causing all kinds of erroneous issues!

The draft setting in the center of the board is a little white dial, and it is usually set CLOCKWISE to its stop

 

[SmokeyTheBear]

if your circuitboard has the dip switches, it does NOT have the hookup for the microswitch....was phased out due to the fact it was problematic. The "new" circuitboards have the dipswitch...the "old" ones dont. Now, is the circuitboard a single board, or is it actually TWO boards (motherboard and daughterboard)? I would reccomend forgetting about the microswitch.....makes me wonder though, if the board was replaced, if the leads were hooked up in the right spot on the board......the orignal board would have ha d a hookup for the electrical bus, the room sensing probe, the ESP probe, and the microswitch. Subsequent replacement boards did away with the microswitch leads, although some were actually jumpered as well......

As for draft....VERY IMPORTANT.....depending on the range of the magnehelic, most of them should "peg" out in TEST mode if the stove is clean and there is no vent blockage and/or intake blockage.

as far as ESP's are concerned...what color is the wire? Black or red? Should be black.

The board is single and its the new one with out the microswitch. I dont know what the dipswitch is? I think that there is a draft control on the board in the center. Not sure on the directional requirement for it. I dont have a magnehelic nor do I really know where to use/place it on the vent. The vent is 4" and is installed per the manual for using an existing chimney, i.e not an existing fireplace. I replaced a wood stove with this pellet stove. All vent pipes are new.

THe gasket that I will replace is the door gasket. I RTD the hell out of the window gaskets and the hopper.

The only time I can get the combustion blower into its highest speed in when I put feed knob in test. Everything electrical is hooked up per the manual. The ESP probe is new with black wires.

I am really appreciating all the help.

The combustion blower will in all likely hood never hit full out while burning, there is a certain amount of play that has to be available in order to be able to setup the stove in slightly differing conditions such as normal differences in the voltage at your house and altitude at your location.

Glad you discovered the door gasket situation as even a small leak at that point frequently has more than a small consequence for your burn. In fact in this case it will help burn up those pellets that weren't being completely burned.

What ever you do when you replace the gasket do not stretch the replacement gasket and a diagonal butt is frequently a lot better (and easier to make) than a straight one.

 

[Chettf]

I can see that the board may be set up for different conditions and that I dont really need the stove in super high combustion motor all the time. I cheated a little bit and got a slightly larger diameter gasket. Its a super tight fit. The first thing I noticed was the large long line of red hot pellets.

I am also pushing the stove by putting the feed rate at 3 and the stove temp to 7 just to see if this old harman still has it in her.

This has been quite an adventure. With this bag of saw dust and carbon blood, Ill start pledging to the PELLET PIG CLUB. CHEERS ALL, Thanks for all the support and advice.

 

[Chettf]

the dipswitch is a red block on the board with several white pencilswitches on it. For your particular stove, all of those pencilswitches should be in the "down" position......and it might be a darn good idea to check this......sometimes they are flipped in error, causing all kinds of erroneous issues!

The draft setting in the center of the board is a little white dial, and it is usually set CLOCKWISE to its stop

all switches are down and the draft setting is full clockwise. I just changed out the gasket seals to the door and hopper.

Wish me luck.

 

[SmokeyTheBear]

Good luck.

Hey, I thought you were going for Pellet Snob not the Pellet Pig Club.

Dang, them Harman snobs never could make up their minds.

 

[Chettf]

The door seems to be the main culprit now. I have replace the door gasket and It worked like a champ last night. This morning not so good. Looks like the door gasket compressed too much over time last night. Dont ask me how. I made sure that I lazy put the gasket in not stretching it. I used gasket cement. I am going to replace it again with RTD. Hopefully, it will work better. Knowing the reason is somewhat reasuring however, not having it run at its prime is making me frustrated.

 

[summit]

make sure that the circuit board dip switches are set properly for you stove and for your esp probe... also check the microswitch that hits the weighted end of the feeder yoke when it is done w/ a revolution. If it does not engage, the auger will go on and on thinking the slider plate won't retract.

I was going to mention this. if you get the 2 blinky status light when you turn the unit to "off" then for sure, its the microswitch.
very astute summit.

1st time I ran into this issue ('bout 5 yrs ago), I had no idea on the switch... took me 2 trips to the customer's house to get it right... one of the 1st things I look at in event of an older Harman's issues, now.