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Is there an optimal way to run the NC-30?

Post in 'The Hearth Room - Wood Stoves and Fireplaces' started by SmokeyCity, Dec 29, 2011.

  1. SmokeyCity

    SmokeyCity Feeling the Heat

    Joined:
    Mar 6, 2011
    Messages:
    406
    Loc:
    Western Pa
    I like to load it up full, Get it roaring then back it off till the silver spring on the air valve stem is halfway hidden.
    This method requires that I only hang around for 15 or 20 minutes (assuming dry wood).
    This setting will let me keep pretty high stove top temps for 3 or 4 hrs.
    If I want to go away for 8 hrs or so I'll completely hid the silver spring on the stem have just enough coals for a hot start 8hrs later.
    I also have my own version of optimal for producing secondaries which is to get it roaring then shut it down all the way.

    I've seen posts on this forum that diss the "get it roaring then back it off" approach as being very inefficient.
    Anyone wanna volunteer an opinion on the optimal way to run the NC-30?
    You can caveat your method as being optimal for this or optimal for that if you like.

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  2. Huntindog1

    Huntindog1 Minister of Fire

    Joined:
    Dec 6, 2011
    Messages:
    1,486
    Loc:
    South Central Indiana
    I dont have a NC30 but the way I look at it is by stove top temp and pipe temp about 10" - 12" above stove. Over time I have gotten a feel for it.

    The hotter I get the stove means I can close the air intake it back all the way. On my stove closing the air all the way mean it covers the holes all the way but there are secondary air inlets in the back and one little hole in the front bottom that feeds the dog house air. I will also close the pipe damper about 3/4. If I get the stove hotter like a pipe temp of 400 and a stove top temp of 800 I can then close it all down and the stove will maintain a low burn.

    If you dont get the temps up high enough you cant shut the air all the way so then midway thru the burn temps are going to build and the stove is going to get to burning hotter as the draw will be more. So then the wood is gong to burn up faster.

    Like I have posted before ,I like to set up 2 zones in my stove , rake coals forward to but wood in the back all the way to the bottom. That back row may have 3 east/west medium splits (4") high all the way to bottome with no coals underneath so as those splits wont get to burning for a while. Then second row will have to go on coals and I stack 2 splits on the second row. Then I have room for a 3rd row closest to door but I dont load them as I use that area on the coals to get a pile of kindling burning hot and fast to heat up the stove fast so I dont have to burn the wood in the back as much to get stove temps up. The faster I get the stove temps up and secondaries kicked off the less I burn the big stuff in the back for a long burn time.

    I have also played around with also using a supercedar with the kindling up front on the bed of coals. The stove heats up better this way for sure.

    But for now I am a firm believer in getting the stove a little hotter so I can shut it all the way down.

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