Jotul Oslo recirculating tube problem

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Status
Not open for further replies.
We have a 4 year old Jotul Oslo front/side loader. We really enjoy this stove with one exception: The gases recirculating tubes have come off their bolts and detached twice in 4 years. This is about 30 lbs of cast iron etc that has to be recemented in place and bolted back in place while holding it in position to do so. I think the problem is that when we load the stove the logs hit this tube set-up and this slowly loosens it until it drops off it's bolt mounts. It is only held on by two bolts at the rear and stove cement where it joins the stove body.

My question is: Has anyone else experienced this problem and is there any retro-fix that might stop this problem? THANKS!
 
What model is your stove? We are buying a new stove and are considering the Jotul F 500 Olso. The side loading is big plus for us. I think that it has the recirculating tubes on the top.
 
The tubes on the recent Oslo / 500 should certainly not fall out when contacted. The tubes are located by pins on the air support on the left (door) side of the stove. I am experienced in R/R of these parts and will be glad to answer any questions, just PM me.
 
I have an oslo and have not had any such problem. Possibly you could post some pictures here so we can get a better idea of what is happening.
 
This thread is from 2007.
 
Shari said:
This thread is from 2007.

HehHeh . . . hopefully the problem was resolved.

For the record . . . I have never had this problem.
 
Old thread, but I think I have the same problem. My right side tube holder is drooping down. Went to my dealer to ask about it and he said I must of banged it up when installing. That's a bunch of bull crap. Stove is less than a year old and he won't come out to check it out. He told me how I can fix it, but I will try it in the spring when I am not burning. So much for Jotul support from this dealer.
 
Mad Tom,

It is easy to resolve it with a few simple hand tools, and a tube of Rutland 2000 degree F stove cement to make it perfect, as you have to disturb all of the tubes, the manifolds and the upper board w/blanket above it. You can do it when you next clean the stove.

PM me and I will be glad to give you the details.
 
I have a 5 yr old Oslo 500, Works great, but every year the right side tube rack bolt works its way loose and drops the entire recirculating assembly. I have devised a repair using wood planks to hold the assembly in place while I cut my wrists to shreds going through the top cooking plate hatch to re tighten the errant bolt. I have replaced both bolt and washer with stainless hardware to no avail. We are careful not to hit the ceiling of the stove when loading wood, we don't burn over 500 degrees for any length of time and this has been happening since the first year. The insulating wool is shot and needs to be replaced and the bolt and tap threads are looking pretty sad too. I hope I won't have to tap new threads. What does Jotul say about this? Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks
 
Mad Tom,

It is easy to resolve it with a few simple hand tools, and a tube of Rutland 2000 degree F stove cement to make it perfect, as you have to disturb all of the tubes, the manifolds and the upper board w/blanket above it. You can do it when you next clean the stove.

PM me and I will be glad to give you the details.

How does the "PM" work. I'd be interested in comparing notes.
 
I haven't had this issue in ~2 years of usage but I'd pull the top off rather than go through the cook-plate-opening. It's three bolts (two in front, one in back near the flue) and you supposedly don't need to replace the bolts when you reassemble. The substantial weight of the top plate keeps the seal apparently---someone knowledgeable please confirm or deny...
 
Confirmed.
 
Excellent! took me a few minutes. the front bolts were a difficult to re-thread so I left them off. The main problem here is that the end flanges only rest on the shelf on the sides of the fire box, only the two small bolts hold the entire assembly together. To add to the problem, the forks that hold these bolts are facing upward. When the season is over, I'll install new hardware and maybe weld a bridge to connect the tines to hold the bolts better.

Thanks again
H
 
Status
Not open for further replies.