Just had a fireplace inspected and have more questions than answers...

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Solarity

New Member
Sep 23, 2014
47
Rochester, NY
I had a chimney sweep come out and check out my fire place. I want to retrofit it back into wood. He said the chimney looked fine, didn't need to be cleaned. If I wanted to turn it back to wood all I would have to do is remove the propane line, patch the hole, and I should be good. The previous owner put a gas log set into the wood burning fireplace. This is a prefab unit and not a masonry fireplace. I do have one concern about my L-Shaped fireplace. I could have sworn that my neighbor had refractory panels on both the side and the back wall of the fireplace. The inspector said it most likely didn't have any. I think it is a Majestic L42BR or a BL. The fireplace was installed when the house was built in 1979. I was assuming he would come out clean the fireplace if needed, recommend the hole be patched, and recommend replacing the possible missing refractory panels. It met all my expectations, short of the refractory panels. There are refractory panels in the rear wall of the fireplace, just not the side. What should I do to find out if it really needs it or not. I guess I can go over to my neighbors and take another look...
 
I may not burn wood in a chimney that is 30+ years old. Unless, maybe it was one of those twice a year on holidays, etc. Ive seen the L shape fireplaces with and without refractory panels in those old developments. Now, if you cant determine if it was standard issue when new, you can buy aftermarket. Not sure that they would need to be removed for a gas log installation in the first place.
 
It has been using gas for at least the last 7 years. Maybe even more than that. The person who lived there was an old lady, so I really can't picture her building a wood fire. The sweep said it didn't need sweeping and it was good.
 
So I checked my neighbor's fireplace and it looks the same as mine, though have a different plate/model on it. He has fire brick on the side and on the back. His back brick looks like it goes up higher than mine. Should I add new fire brick or not?
 
Post some picture there is no way for any of us to know anything with out seeing it and having a definite model number
 
I had something similar. When we got our house in 2003 (built in 1972) the chimney looked fine, according to the "experts". So I tried to burn some wood in the fireplace and smelled smoke everywhere. A second more detailed inspection learned that the original clay lining was okay, but the mortar between the bricks in the smoke chamber was gone for almost 50%, hence smoke in the walls. Not safe. Solution: stainless steel Class A liner from top of stove all the way up to the chimney cap. In my opinion the only way. Fixing the smoke chamber is a complicated, difficult and expensive job.
 
I had something similar. When we got our house in 2003 (built in 1972) the chimney looked fine, according to the "experts". So I tried to burn some wood in the fireplace and smelled smoke everywhere. A second more detailed inspection learned that the original lining was okay, but the mortar between the bricks in the smoke chamber was gone for almost 50%, hence smoke in the walls. Not safe. Solution: stainless steel Class A liner from top of stove all the way up to the chimney cap. In my opinion the only way. Fixing the smoke chamber is a complicated, difficult and expensive job.
They have a prefab there is no smoke chamber and no real repair if it is worn out you replace it. And You were mislead fixing a smoke chamber is not that big of a deal you just parge it with chamber tech or a similar product. And if you wanted a stove why didnt you just run an insulated liner instead of the class a it costs allot less is allot easier to do and is approved for the application.
 
They have a prefab there is no smoke chamber and no real repair if it is worn out you replace it. And You were mislead fixing a smoke chamber is not that big of a deal you just parge it with chamber tech or a similar product. And if you wanted a stove why didnt you just run an insulated liner instead of the class a it costs allot less is allot easier to do and is approved for the application.
My smoke chamber was a mess. I had 3 companies coming over for estimates and it varied from 4K-8K to fix. I intended to fix it my self, but after having a close look standing inside the chamber showed it was in a crumbling state. My choice to get a stove to put in the fireplace came years later, after I got a job that allows me to work from home most of the time.
 
It really must have been bad but honestly i cant see a smoke chamber costing that much and still being structurally sound. And as long as it is sound some wire mesh and chamber tech will fix it and take less than a day.. Unless your damper is to small to work through and then it could cost a little more. But hey i didnt see it i may have looked at it ans said it was really bad to
 
It really must have been bad but honestly i cant see a smoke chamber costing that much and still being structurally sound. And as long as it is sound some wire mesh and chamber tech will fix it and take less than a day.. Unless your damper is to small to work through and then it could cost a little more. But hey i didnt see it i may have looked at it ans said it was really bad to
Believe me it was very bad. I decided, after a long time, researching my options, talking to experienced "wood burners", etc. to remove all the bad parts of the smoke chamber, remove the narrow damper, and put in a flexible liner. After that I insulated all what was open and causing any external draft. I am glad I did.
 
ok so it was a liner not a class a i see that makes sense. The stove is a much better option than the open fireplace anyway glad it all worked out for you. But still not applicable to the orthogonal poster anyway.
 
Here is my neighbor's Fireplace:

Majestic
M36, MD36, MD36R, MD36L, M28

Will post mine shortly.
 

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Here is mine:

Majestic
Models: L42B, L42BR, L42BL, L36B, L36BR, L36BL, or L28B
 

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A gravity feed I see - very high tech :)
 
So I measured a few things and it looks like the box is 36" wide and the outside is 41". I am thinking the pole is considered seperate as it looks like it is not attached directly to the firebox, like a sperate unit.
 
Are you hoping to heat the house with it? Or some? I don't think you'll get much, looks to be rather inefficient.

I was looking at ripping it out and putting in a high effiency fire place, though would be $10k from the people I was able to talk to. I have munciple electric, my lowest utilty bill was $17 for a 1600ft^2 house + basement. Highest bill was about $300, though we adverage about $75/month for all utilities. It gets pricey for aux heat when the temps gets low. I would love to heat the whole house, but I can't see it paying off in 20 years. I could add in an insert, which would be a little better, though I am not completely sure yet. I love fire and my fire pit, so I am guessing I want something more estetic than functional. I hate the propane company as they have me done me wrong so much, I don't want to think about it.
 
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