Keeping heat downstairs

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Stelcom66

Minister of Fire
Nov 6, 2014
740
Connecticut
A while ago I posted a question asking about methods to keep heat from the woodstove from going upstairs. A significant amount of heat would make it up there. Curtains on the stairs definitely helps. A 12v fan from an old phone system moves air into the next room, I've found that to be effective as well.

stairs.jpg
 
If it is a straight run stairway, you might consider glass doors at the top rather than the curtains. We use in-line fans to use existing registers in other rooms as cold air returns - forces the cooler air out the existing registers near the stove.
 
Ideally I'd have a door at the bottom of the stairs, but my staircase is open. I recently moved my bedroom from upstairs to the first floor. Last winter the warm air upstairs was a plus.
 
We had a flat ceiling going from our living room to the entry hallway. That allowed heat to convect up the large open staircase quickly. To slow it down I created a false transom over the hallway opening. It drops down about 16" from the 9'6" ceiling and creates an effective air flow barrier keeping more of the heat downstairs. Overall it's been quite effective.
 
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We had a flat ceiling going from our living room to the entry hallway. That allowed heat to convect up the large open staircase quickly. To slow it down I created a false transom over the hallway opening. It drops down about 16" from the 9'6" ceiling and creates an effective air flow barrier keeping more of the heat downstairs. Overall it's been quite effective.

I've been thinking about doing exactly this by my stairs. However, only having 8' ceilings, I'd have a much small drop, which would presumably be less effective. Glad to hear somebody has already tried this, with positive results.
 
I have to admit I had to look up false transom. Interesting it was effective enough, with an opening below. I assume because most of the heat is up high, which is why I placed the fan accordingly to move warm air to the other room.
 
Hot air is more buoyant. It will naturally rise to the highest point if there is an open path. This presents an issue for cathedral ceiling installations.
 
We had a flat ceiling going from our living room to the entry hallway. That allowed heat to convect up the large open staircase quickly. To slow it down I created a false transom over the hallway opening. It drops down about 16" from the 9'6" ceiling and creates an effective air flow barrier keeping more of the heat downstairs. Overall it's been quite effective.
We did something very similar as I related in a response to the OP's prior post on this subject. (a post I can't seem to find)
 
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