Leg Ash Pan Kit Bk

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Teachme

New Member
Nov 16, 2021
71
MA
Any one have any experience with these? and perhaps know what befits they add? (as in is it a big game changer?) .
. S.Z3820.BK Leg Ash Pan Kit
4. S.Z1726 / S.Z1726B Fresh Air Kit 4”/3”
 
Any one have any experience with these? and perhaps know what befits they add? (as in is it a big game changer?) .
. S.Z3820.BK Leg Ash Pan Kit
4. S.Z1726 / S.Z1726B Fresh Air Kit 4”/3”
I don't use the ash pan at all on the princess I am using.


The fresh air kit can make a huge difference in some houses and none at all in other houses.
 
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I don't use the ash pan at all on the princess I am using.


The fresh air kit can make a huge difference in some houses and none at all in other houses.
Thank you this is very helpful.
My house is not super tight so i would guess that the intake would not do much for me.
 
Thank you this is very helpful.
My house is not super tight so i would guess that the intake would not do much for me.
That depends upon many factors honestly
 
How much it would do depends on what you want it to do.
If it is for tightness, to avoid back drafting, then a not-so-tight home may indeed not benefit from an OAK.
If it is to not use warm air from your room to keep the fire going, that is then replaced by cold air leaking in thru gaps at doors and windows etc., making the farther rooms colder when the stove is on, then it might make a difference.
 
How much it would do depends on what you want it to do.
If it is for tightness, to avoid back drafting, then a not-so-tight home may indeed not benefit from an OAK.
If it is to not use warm air from your room to keep the fire going, that is then replaced by cold air leaking in thru gaps at doors and windows etc., making the farther rooms colder when the stove is on, then it might make a difference.
Doesn’t warming the air going into the stove help the stove? I know cold air has more oxygen but from what i gather from many stove makers wanting to warm the air that warm air coming in would help?
 
Doesn’t warming the air going into the stove help the stove? I know cold air has more oxygen but from what i gather from many stove makers wanting to warm the air that warm air coming in would help?
The difference in temp between inside and outside air really isn't significant when you are talking about internal firebox temps well above 1000 degrees
 
Cold air does not have more oxygen. It's still the same percentage of the molecules that is oxygen (vs nitrogen, CO2, and H2O, mostly).
(I know the density of the air, i.e. all molecules, is higher when cold, but before it reaches the fire, it's way hotter already.)

And warm air does not make a whole lot of difference; to gauge these things one has to measure in the absolute temperature, i.e. Kelvins. Air right at freezing is 273 K. Air in your room is about 293 K. That is not a significant difference, and the air flow through the stove before it enters the firebox heats it up to I think around 600 K or so.

In the end, it's not going to change the fire, and an OAK does prevent cold air leaking in everywhere in your home to make up for the warm room air you used to get the fire going.
Now, I don't have an OAK (not possible for me), and a stove still provides much heat, and is a net heater. So it is not necessary. There are reports of people noting an increase in comfort at the far corners of a home heated by a stove.
 
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Putting one in Now be pretty simple seeing as I have everything open. Compared to after. Could you elaborate on what those factors are?
Where the house is leaky. If it is leaky high in the building envelope it can cause negative pressure issues lower in that envelope. That would make it more important. If you already have a high air turnover in the home and don't have negative pressure issues I don't think it would be of much benifit at all.
 
Cold air does not have more oxygen. It's still the same percentage of the molecules that is oxygen (vs nitrogen, CO2, and H2O, mostly).

And warm air does not make a whole lot of difference; to gauge these things one has to measure in the absolute temperature, i.e. Kelvins. Air right at freezing is 273 K. Air in your room is about 293 K. That is not a significant difference, and the air flow through the stove before it enters the firebox heats it up to I think around 600 K or so.
It does have the same proportions. But in cold air I believe those molecules are mose densely packed. So you would get slightly more oxygen. But honestly I don't think there is enough difference with regards to a woodstove to really change anything. Now in a vehicle especially one that has forced induction it's a different story
 
No, that is
It does have the same proportions. But in cold air I believe those molecules are mose densely packed. So you would get slightly more oxygen. But honestly I don't think there is enough difference with regards to a woodstove to really change anything. Now in a vehicle especially one that has forced induction it's a different story
No, that is wrong. yes it's more packed. But once it reaches the fire, it's HOT. Meaning less densely packed. The total volume coming in is determined by the draft going out. If in the pipe into the firebox the air expands (as it does, getting hot), it does not matter what was there at the start (outside) opening of the air. The air in the pipe is not pushing MORE into the firebox.

You could put a block of solid air at 1 Kelvin at the OAK outside, creating ultradense air when it sublimes (and is still very cold), and it would still be the same airflow thru the stove.
 
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No, that is

No, that is wrong. yes it's more packed. But once it reaches the fire, it's HOT. Meaning less densely packed. The total volume coming in is determined by the draft going out. If in the pipe into the firebox the air expands (as it does, getting hot), it does not matter what was there at the start (outside) opening of the air. The air in the pipe is not pushing MORE into the firebox.

You could put a block of solid air at 1 Kelvin at the OAK outside, creating ultradense air when it sublimes (and is still very cold), and it would still be the same airflow thru the stove.
Fair enough. Like I said I didn't think it would make much of any difference in this case.
 
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No, that is

No, that is wrong. yes it's more packed. But once it reaches the fire, it's HOT. Meaning less densely packed. The total volume coming in is determined by the draft going out. If in the pipe into the firebox the air expands (as it does, getting hot), it does not matter what was there at the start (outside) opening of the air. The air in the pipe is not pushing MORE into the firebox.

You could put a block of solid air at 1 Kelvin at the OAK outside, creating ultradense air when it sublimes (and is still very cold), and it would still be the same airflow thru the stove.
talking about temps I have dif ? that perhaps u guys might know why.
So the flue I had was suppose to be good for a gas flu but not for a wood stove wouldn't u want a better flu for gas fire places as lp and ng both burn FAR hotter then wood. also wouldn't u want a father safety cir around gas?
 
No, a wood stove has hotter exhaust.
 
talking about temps I have dif ? that perhaps u guys might know why.
So the flue I had was suppose to be good for a gas flu but not for a wood stove wouldn't u want a better flu for gas fire places as lp and ng both burn FAR hotter then wood. also wouldn't u want a father safety cir around gas?
Not at all. Not only are wood exhaust temps higher normally but they have to be safe in the event of a chimney fire that can exceed 2000 degrees


And by the looks to me like your old flue was for a prefab wood burning fireplace. But that isn't rated high enough for a woodstove either
 
Not at all. Not only are wood exhaust temps higher normally but they have to be safe in the event of a chimney fire that can exceed 2000 degrees


And by the looks to me like your old flue was for a prefab wood burning fireplace. But that isn't rated high enough for a woodstove either
How is it that the flu temp is higher on wood that burns at max 1700 f were lp and ng both burn between 2800 and 3800 f
 
How is it that the flu temp is higher on wood that burns at max 1700 f were lp and ng both burn between 2800 and 3800 f
Because lp and natural gas can extract much more of the heat with heat exchangers because it burns cleanly. And again chimney fires burn at roughly 2100 degrees.


We aren't talking about firebox temps we are talking about exhaust temps
 
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Because lp and natural gas can extract much more of the heat with heat exchangers because it burns cleanly. And again chimney fires burn at roughly 2100 degrees.


We aren't talking about firebox temps we are talking about exhaust temps
ty
 
Hey OP, let me break all this down for you. I live in an 1895 Sears Craftsman home. It has been vastly improved due to Covid Do list items that never got done because of my travels.

For years we had carpet in our living room. As a one time fan of NASCAR, I would lay in front of my wood stove (King 1102) and watch the races. (Until I fell asleep and the nap experience happened). I ALWAYS felt a cold draft coming toward me (with the stove behind me).

When I changed to the King 1107, I added the fresh air kit. That draft has been gone ever since! I hated the idea of burning room air. This experiment proved to me that it was well worth it for MY application.

In 2021, I upgraded to the KE40 and built a raised hearth. Within the base structure, I added the fresh air so that it was hidden. (I stole some of the idea from Highbeam actually.

The good news, F/A kits are not costly. You can put it in place and if you elected to not use it for some reason, you can just disconnect it.

Lastly, the entire F/A vent line must remain below the bottom of the firebox. You cannot create a snorkel of sorts by going "up and out."

As you posted, you can do it now quite easily.

BKVP
 
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