Lessons Learned...Patience, Technique and above all Dry Freakin' Wood!

[apples439]

Hi all,

On the advice of another member, I am reposting my thoughts/experience from another thread and starting a new one. The original thread outlined my trials and tribulations surrounding the operation of my new Woodstock Fireview.

“I thought I’d report back on my progress. Using your suggestions, I was able to achieve much better results than I was previously getting. However, the one variable I couldn’t change was the fuel. So, I walked down the street and asked one of my wood-burning neighbors about his wood supply (red oak) and he assured me it was dry as a bone (3-years; top-covered). He was kind enough to give me a wheelbarrow full for my experiment. Great neighbor…great guy. I loaded into my stove and used the same techniques I’ve adopted from you guys. After about 10 minutes I engaged the Cat and set the draft to 1 for a bit (normally I set it to 1.2), but after several minutes I dialed it down to .75. Normally this would kill my heat output. I’m sure you won’t be shocked to hear that the results far exceeded what had become the standard over the past months. The stove has been hovering around 500F for about 2 hours…something that it has never done before. Also, the firebox is filled with dark-red embers and no flame (like you guys keep talking about). So, not only is the stove burning hotter, it is also burning longer. I’m sure I can still fine-tune some of my technique, but I’m obviously on the right path.

I consider myself a fairly methodical person who prepares adequately for projects/tasks/etc. Therefore, I thought I was way ahead of the game when I picked up 9 cords of “seasoned” wood in the middle of last summer. Mostly oak (for better or worse). I still had several months to further dry the already seasoned fuel, right? Yes, but it wasn’t close to enough (damn oak). [***EDIT*** The "seasoned" wood I have measures approximately 22-28% with regards to moisture content (readings taken from freshly split pieces).***EDIT***] If there are any of you that are reading this that are new to wood burning (Cat stoves in particular), please learn from my mistake. As a group, why do us newbies keep making this error even with this plethora of great advice at our fingertips? Take the advice of those who have been there and done that. It will save you time, money, effort and frustration. The importance of dry wood cannot be overstated. It is crucial to getting through the winter at an acceptable level of efficiency. If the wood is improperly seasoned, it burns cooler and shorter. With improperly seasoned wood, you can forget about those 8-12 hour burns the Fireview owners tout. Those results cannot be reached without an adequately dry fuel source. If you’re thinking about getting a Fireview…don’t let this detract you. Quite the opposite, the results that this beauty can achieve with the right knowledge and materials is astounding. This includes, very long burn times, low fuel consumption, wonderfully soft heat. I LOVE this stove and I would buy another in a heartbeat. Ah, and when next year comes around, and my wood is dry, dry, dry, I am going to love it even more!”

I hope that my lessons learned due to my ignorance associated with the importance of truly seasoned wood helps others avoid some of the frustration I've encountered. Good burning to all.

 

[Jags]

Buy 'em books, send them to school.......

Just pulling your leg! One reason that we hear so much about the unseasoned wood is because it is WHEN a user has a problem they start to google it. Then they happen upon this place. Then the info starts to flow. Then - when the newby decides that some of these folks might actually know what the heck they are talking about........bada boom, bada bing - magic happens. ;-)

 

[jcjohnston]

my 2nd year heating with a Lopi Freedom Bay and man are we going through way less wood now that no hissing comes from the oak, learned my lesson last year and I have been burning open fireplaces for 20 years. another benefit of properly dry wood!!

 

[jotul8e2]

Just this morning I attempted to burn some oak from some posts I had cut and stacked more than four years ago. These ranged from 3" to 6" in diameter and about 6' long. I finally decided I was never going to use them as posts and cut them up for firewood.

When the first load failed to burn properly I opened the stove and discovered - sap sizzling out of the ends! After four, maybe almost five years! Cut to stove length they might still have needed two years to dry unless I split them first.

 

[jadm]

When I started burning I too thought I was ahead of the game with ordering wood in July to burn in the same winter.....I had not found Hearth.com then.

Took me a couple of years to find this site and now I order my wood in March and I over order as much as I can fit in our yard so that it sits for at least a full year before being 'introduced' to our insert.

 

[Green Energy]

Yeah, I learned the same lesson this year with my new Oslo. Truly seasoned, 15-20 mc, makes all the difference between an easy start up, reaching cruising temp, and fighting with the fire to "flash season" the wood during 30 - 60 minutes of forced burn.

I burn mostly red oak and have 2.5 cords of "partially seasoned" oak set aside for next year. I have some OK seasoned wood that I am nursing to get through the next month. It has been a cold, snowy winter in my neck of the woods.

For the past month, most of my wood was well seasoned. It is a joy to see it light up and turn hot in short order. With a good stove and good install, it is the next most important ingredient.

 

[firefighterjake]

Welcome Brothers and Sisters . . . welcome to all our new convents . . . to the Church of the Burn No Wood Before It's Time (aka Burn Only Truly Seasoned Wood) Church . . . all are welcome here . . . even the heathens who think they have seasoned wood . . . when in fact they do not.

 

[firefighterjake]

Hi all,

On the advice of another member, I am reposting my thoughts/experience from another thread and starting a new one. The original thread outlined my trials and tribulations surrounding the operation of my new Woodstock Fireview.

“I thought I’d report back on my progress. Using your suggestions, I was able to achieve much better results than I was previously getting. However, the one variable I couldn’t change was the fuel. So, I walked down the street and asked one of my wood-burning neighbors about his wood supply (red oak) and he assured me it was dry as a bone (3-years; top-covered). He was kind enough to give me a wheelbarrow full for my experiment. Great neighbor…great guy. Sounds like a wicked nice guy . . . then again anyone willing to donate some wood to help you out . . . and wood that was truly seasoned in fact . . . sounds like a good guy . . . you should invite him to the Church of Hearth.com. I loaded into my stove and used the same techniques I’ve adopted from you guys. After about 10 minutes I engaged the Cat and set the draft to 1 for a bit (normally I set it to 1.2), but after several minutes I dialed it down to .75. Normally this would kill my heat output. I’m sure you won’t be shocked to hear that the results far exceeded what had become the standard over the past months. The stove has been hovering around 500F for about 2 hours…something that it has never done before. Also, the firebox is filled with dark-red embers and no flame (like you guys keep talking about). So, not only is the stove burning hotter, it is also burning longer. I’m sure I can still fine-tune some of my technique, but I’m obviously on the right path. Yes . . . the path of true enlightenment . . . that one moment when the newbie burner realizes that true seasoned wood makes a very real and tangible difference in how the wood ignites, the heat it produces and the length of burn . . . most folks if they follow the gospel . . . that would be the Book of Brother Bart, Book of Fossil, Book of Backwoods Savage, etc. eventually reach this ah-ha moment in time . . . some sooner than others.

I consider myself a fairly methodical person who prepares adequately for projects/tasks/etc. Therefore, I thought I was way ahead of the game when I picked up 9 cords of “seasoned” wood in the middle of last summer. Mostly oak (for better or worse). I still had several months to further dry the already seasoned fuel, right? Yes, but it wasn’t close to enough (damn oak). [***EDIT*** The "seasoned" wood I have measures approximately 22-28% with regards to moisture content (readings taken from freshly split pieces).***EDIT***] If there are any of you that are reading this that are new to wood burning (Cat stoves in particular), please learn from my mistake. As a group, why do us newbies keep making this error even with this plethora of great advice at our fingertips? As mentioned I think it's a two-fold reason . . . 1) folks sometimes don't come here until they have a problem and search the net for a fix and 2) what do a bunch of computer jockeys know . . . I mean my (pick one) grandfather, father, father-in-law, myself have been burning wood all of their/our lives and we/I have always seasoned my wood in this way with no problem . . . and so the mistakes of the past are continued and frustrations and chimney fires continue. Take the advice of those who have been there and done that. It will save you time, money, effort and frustration. The importance of dry wood cannot be overstated. It is crucial to getting through the winter at an acceptable level of efficiency. If the wood is improperly seasoned, it burns cooler and shorter. With improperly seasoned wood, you can forget about those 8-12 hour burns the Fireview owners tout. Those results cannot be reached without an adequately dry fuel source. If you’re thinking about getting a Fireview…don’t let this detract you. Quite the opposite, the results that this beauty can achieve with the right knowledge and materials is astounding. This includes, very long burn times, low fuel consumption, wonderfully soft heat. I LOVE this stove and I would buy another in a heartbeat. Ah, and when next year comes around, and my wood is dry, dry, dry, I am going to love it even more!” The love only increases with time . . . and better seasoned wood. Cherish the love.

I hope that my lessons learned due to my ignorance associated with the importance of truly seasoned wood helps others avoid some of the frustration I've encountered. Good burning to all. Great post.

 

[Jags]

that would be the Book of Brother Bart,

Baahaahaha - I could only imagine how that one would read

"Thou shalt not point thy indurated wood towards any hot box other than thine own"

Baaahaahaha. :lol:

 

[Backwoods Savage]

Ted, I do hope new wood burners will find this thread and learn much.


As I've stated before, I grew up with some of the old school. Many folks burned wood when I was a young lad and most cut firewood only after the fall crops were in and the ground was frozen. That wood would be thrown into the basement or stacked outside or some in woodsheds and burned that same winter. Most got away with it simply because those old stoves were not as efficient as the new stoves. They also burned the stoves really hot, simply because that is how it had to be done in order for the wood to burn.

I don't remember exactly when my eyes were opened but it was an amazing thing to see just how much better good dry wood was vs. burning green wood. I also learned very quickly that if folks persisted in burning green wood that they had to work much harder because it took a lot more wood to heat the home. That alone was enough to convince me. I've burned green wood only one year since that time and that was due to an unfortunate accident that kept me from cutting wood and our woodpile ran out before I could return to cutting. I hope I'll never have to burn green wood again!

 

[MishMouse]

This year I hope its a better year for seasoning.

Last year due to a death in the family and the cold, wet and foggy weather my stove is suffering this winter.
Instead of just loading the stove up with an armful of wood, I have to pick and chose which pieces go in on the bottom and which goes in more towards the top, I have been going through way more wood then I did last year and the propain is running more this year also. I will also need to schedule a cleaning of the chimney at least 2x this year instead of 1x.

Hopefully things will go as planned this year and I will be able to build up at least a 2 year supply of wood.

 

[gyrfalcon]

The irony is that almost every new stove buyer has been told and knows that they have to have "seasoned" wood. What nobody ever seems to get around to telling them is that you basically *cannot buy* seasoned wood, and in the rare instances that you can, the price is prohibitive.

So we all start out fully intending to burn seasoned wood in our lovely new stoves, did what we were supposed to do and specifically bought wood we were assured was "seasoned," and then we go right down that path of frustration that leads us here, if we're lucky, where we find out for the first time that we have to have a different definition of the term than the wood sellers and dealers.

It's really maddening to be diligent and do exactly what you were told to do, only to find out you've failed anyway because one critical little piece of information was left out.

 

[pen]

What surprises me is that people selling stoves don't GIVE (include) a 1/2 a face cord of GOOD seasoned wood with their stoves. I can only imagine the complaints they get from the wet wood problem considering how many we get here! Then, the next step for these people is often to bash their new stove, perhaps detracting others from upgrading, thus hurting sales. But, who am I to make such a bold assumption

IMO the ONLY way to convert people is for them to see the light (feel the heat) themselves.

Good post and glad to see another convert.

pen

 

[gyrfalcon]

What surprises me is that people selling stoves don't GIVE (include) a 1/2 a face cord of GOOD seasoned wood with their stoves. I can only imagine the complaints they get from the wet wood problem considering how many we get here! Then, the next step for these people is often to bash their new stove, perhaps detracting others from upgrading, thus hurting sales. But, who am I to make such a bold assumption

IMO the ONLY way to convert people is for them to see the light (feel the heat) themselves.

Good post and glad to see another convert.

pen

Boy, I'm with you on that! Or at the very least, a couple of stove loads of dry stuff. Just hefting a couple of pieces would vividly show people the difference between dry and not dry wood. You'd think they'd want to do whatever they could to reduce the I'm sure pretty high volume of calls from frustrated new stove owners whose only problem is wet wood but who think there's something terribly wrong with the stove or the install.

 

[lazeedan]

I was always told "If you want something done right, do it yourself"! This includes seasoning your wood. It makes heating with wood a pleasure.

 

[gyrfalcon]

I was always told "If you want something done right, do it yourself"! This includes seasoning your wood. It makes heating with wood a pleasure.

Sure. And whoever can't, or doesn't know they're going to need to, just gets what they deserve, right?

 

[lexybird]

Take the advice of those who have been there and done that. It will save you time, money, effort and frustration. The importance of dry wood cannot be overstated. It is crucial to getting through the winter at an acceptable level of efficiency. If the wood is improperly seasoned, it burns cooler and shorter. .

good point!

some guys have to learn the hard way ,its a right of passage for newbs to freeze the first year ,i guess it thickens the skin and gets oxygen to the brain so they can wise up and prepare their wood ahead of time .one other note to add that i see alot of newbs fret over: just becuase its dead and/or pappy cut her down last year doesnt mean its now seasoned ,that means nothing! i have had cherry that was dropped over 3 years that when it was split ,it would squirt you in the face it was so dang wet .wood doesnt truely start to season till its split

 

[Backwoods Savage]

What surprises me is that people selling stoves don't GIVE (include) a 1/2 a face cord of GOOD seasoned wood with their stoves. I can only imagine the complaints they get from the wet wood problem considering how many we get here! Then, the next step for these people is often to bash their new stove, perhaps detracting others from upgrading, thus hurting sales. But, who am I to make such a bold assumption

IMO the ONLY way to convert people is for them to see the light (feel the heat) themselves.

Good post and glad to see another convert.

pen

Boy, I'm with you on that! Or at the very least, a couple of stove loads of dry stuff. Just hefting a couple of pieces would vividly show people the difference between dry and not dry wood. You'd think they'd want to do whatever they could to reduce the I'm sure pretty high volume of calls from frustrated new stove owners whose only problem is wet wood but who think there's something terribly wrong with the stove or the install.

I'm with you guys here! The next best thing would be for the wood seller to keep good dry wood on hand and when the buyer started complaining about his stove, take so good wood and pay a visit. I would think as a seller they would want to educate whoever is buying the stove, but then, in my experience, I've known very few sellers who knew much about it. Most had zero knowledge other than what they had read in the stove manufacturer's brochures. Sad state of affairs...

 

[bogydave]

What surprises me is that people selling stoves don't GIVE (include) a 1/2 a face cord of GOOD seasoned wood with their stoves. I can only imagine the complaints they get from the wet wood problem considering how many we get here! Then, the next step for these people is often to bash their new stove, perhaps detracting others from upgrading, thus hurting sales. But, who am I to make such a bold assumption

IMO the ONLY way to convert people is for them to see the light (feel the heat) themselves.

Good post and glad to see another convert.

pen

Boy, I'm with you on that! Or at the very least, a couple of stove loads of dry stuff. Just hefting a couple of pieces would vividly show people the difference between dry and not dry wood. You'd think they'd want to do whatever they could to reduce the I'm sure pretty high volume of calls from frustrated new stove owners whose only problem is wet wood but who think there's something terribly wrong with the stove or the install.

I'm with you guys here! The next best thing would be for the wood seller to keep good dry wood on hand and when the buyer started complaining about his stove, take so good wood and pay a visit. I would think as a seller they would want to educate whoever is buying the stove, but then, in my experience, I've known very few sellers who knew much about it. Most had zero knowledge other than what they had read in the stove manufacturer's brochures. Sad state of affairs...

Another good thing the "sellers off stoves" could do is tell their new stove owners to visit "hearth.com" before the first burn.

 

[Troutchaser]

My seller mentioned the importance of good wood after I called with questions. Funny he never said anything before that.
My "unseasoned" wood went into the dessication chamber down in the baement for a three week turnaround. Kept track of one cherry split that has now in one month lost 125 ml. of water. That's a lot of steam not headed up the stack.

 

[michaelryba]

I don't think it's any surprise that stove shops don't tell you strait up about having wood that's seasoned to an EPA stove's standards. If I'm a stove salesman & I tell my prospective customer (in Sept/Oct) that there pretty much screwed unless thay have 3-4 cords of wood already seasoned for a full year--I loose about 90% of my customers. Do the math and you'll notice that 4 cords stacked all in one row adds up to 96 ft long pile. I've told that to people & their eyes get real big.

 

[Jags]

I don't think it's any surprise that stove shops don't tell you strait up about having wood that's seasoned to an EPA stove's standards. If I'm a stove salesman & I tell my prospective customer (in Sept/Oct) that there pretty much screwed unless thay have 3-4 cords of wood already seasoned for a full year--I loose about 90% of my customers. Do the math and you'll notice that 4 cords stacked all in one row adds up to 96 ft long pile. I've told that to people & their eyes get real big.

It would be real easy to do:

"And with this stove purchase we will give you a 4'x4'x18" stack of wood to get you started"

After going through a couple of stove loads the end user will be able to see what seasoned wood acts like. Cuts down on the chances that they will blame the install or the stove itself. Heck, that alone would be worth the $30 worth of wood they sent with the customer.

 

[gyrfalcon]

I don't think it's any surprise that stove shops don't tell you strait up about having wood that's seasoned to an EPA stove's standards. If I'm a stove salesman & I tell my prospective customer (in Sept/Oct) that there pretty much screwed unless thay have 3-4 cords of wood already seasoned for a full year--I loose about 90% of my customers. Do the math and you'll notice that 4 cords stacked all in one row adds up to 96 ft long pile. I've told that to people & their eyes get real big.

Hadn't thought of that, but now that you point it out, I think you're probably absolutely right.

 

[Troutchaser]

No, I don't expect any salesman to say: "Well now, this stove can be a stinker, especially with one year old oak." I would have had a hard time with that.
But I like the idea of selling seasoned wood with it. Hey, it's only another couple hundred bucks.

 

[WoodpileOCD]

I'm a convert now and am burning 2 yr old wood (WOW). Just found this thread while poking around for something else and thought I would bump it for this years 'newbies'. Suffered through the first year with this new stove and decided then I would get and STAY 3 years ahead. Finally got there last summer. Well worth the effort and peace of mind. Someone pointed out that it's not only for the dry wood but insurance in case "life happens" and you can't cut at all one year.