Level to level Heat Transfer Fan (w/ PICS)

[GatorDL55]

I have my Englander 30 in the basement of my house. It's a one story ranch -- heats my place just fine. When I originally installed the stove, the basement was unfinished (concrete floors, block walls and exposed floor joists). I have since finished the basement (studded and insulated walls, drywalled ceiling and nature stone floors). I have noticed that the heat doesn't transfer to the upstairs as easily as it did before. It still gets warms upstairs -- just takes longer.

Bought a fan assisted register cover the other day to help move the heat from the basement to the upstairs. Decided that I wanted to install it on the wall upstairs as opposed to cutting into the hardwood floors and installing as a floor register.

Started by removing the baseboard and then cutting a square in the wall to install the register. I then cut a small access hole behind the baseboard to be able to get my sawzall in to cut the 2X4 bottom plate. Got the bottom plate cut out and then went to the basement to cut the square for the return cover. From below, I was able to cut the subfloor with my sawzall. I then installed the return cover on the ceiling in the basement and installed the register fan in the wall.

All in all it was a pretty straightforward and simple install. Only bled once (which makes it an official home improvement project) and it took me about 2-3 hours from start to finish. I just need to slap some paint on the baseboard where I had to nail it back to the wall.

And the best news -- it really does do a great job of pulling the heat upstairs. It's better than when the basement was unfinished.

Here'a link to the unit that I got -- http://www.rewci.com/ultra-register-booster-fan.html -- it was less than $65.00 and it has a thermostat and little wireless remote.

I attached some pictures of the during and after.

 

[snowleopard]

Very nice. Thanks for sharing this. I like the fact that the controls are so conveniently located. And a cute lil' remote even? So you just ran the wiring over from a nearby outlet? Or did you cut it out where a box was located?

I have some 4" ducting that runs from the ceiling in my hearthroom to upstairs bedrooms, via the pantry--was intended for an hrv unit that was never installed. I've been thinking about putting a duct fan in the pantry ceiling, and seeing if that would transfer heat upstairs, but something like this would allow me to control the heat at the place of use. Will check it out.


It's always fun when you get a good tweak, isn't it?

 

[Shari]

The grill in the basement ceiling, is this a 'fire damper' type of grill? If not, it should be.

(from here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fire_damper : "Fire Dampers are used to maintain the required rating of fire rated barriers (walls, partitions, floors) when they are penetrated by ductwork. When a rise in temperature occurs, a fire damper will close and prevent the spread of flame through the barrier. Dampers are typically curtain style that will close (shut) when a fusible link melts". [1] Regulations and fire test regimes vary from one country to another, which can make for a difference in designs.

 

[GatorDL55]

It is not. I think you are referring to more of a commercial application.

I'm not a building inspector but I don't feel that I would need one in this instance. Would it probably be beneficial? -- yes, in the unlikely event that there was a fire, it would probably help.

But, if I'm going to install one here to satisfy the wording from wikipedia, I'd have to install one in my forced air ductwork, 2 bathroom exhaust fans, kitchen stove exhaust, whole house fan exhaust, etc.

Someone with experience with residential building codes, feel free to chime in.

The grill in the basement ceiling, is this a 'fire damper' type of grill? If not, it should be.

(from here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fire_damper : "Fire Dampers are used to maintain the required rating of fire rated barriers (walls, partitions, floors) when they are penetrated by ductwork. When a rise in temperature occurs, a fire damper will close and prevent the spread of flame through the barrier. Dampers are typically curtain style that will close (shut) when a fusible link melts". [1] Regulations and fire test regimes vary from one country to another, which can make for a difference in designs.

 

[Shari]

Suit yourself but you have just created an 'internal' chimney with no damper ability. Others on this list have seen the light and installed fire dampers for the safety of their families and per code in their area.
Check out this thread: https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/70253/#810805

and this picture of the OP's install:
https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php?ACT=24&fid=2&aid=48916_AGUQtvOeOQL6q2cp4KRP&board_id=1

 

[North of 60]

Suit yourself but you have just created an 'internal' chimney with no damper ability. Others on this list have seen the light and installed fire dampers for the safety of their families and per code in their area.

You are correct Shari.

 

[MishMouse]

Where does your flue go?
If your flue goes through a chase that is accessible you might have better results installing your fan in that.

As to fire dampers and their installs.
When you cut a hole in your floor to get heat to the upstairs you are putting a hole in the natural fire break that is created between floors. If you were to have a fire since the heat is being pulled up into your walls driven by natural heat movement and your fan it would allow the fire to move very quickly into your walls. If this wall is in a main living area the results would not be good, this would also allow smoke to fill the living area of your home much quicker making it allot harder to escape. As for the rest of your venting depending on how it is it most likely would not cause a as big of issue as this vent would.

In my basement before I had my stove installed I had them cut two holes in the plenum to allow the furnace to get heat into the basement. Then when I had my stove installed I had a fire vent installed to get heat from the basement into the living room and I also had them cut a hole in my chase to allow heat into the bedroom from the enclosed chase. The holes in the plenum are not an issue since they do not break the barrier between floors, the hole in the chase is also ok since it is installed with the chase. Note: The person I had install the vent would not have let me install something other then the fire vent as it would have been against the building code in my area.

 

[weatherguy]

This is an good thread, I didnt hink I could cut a hole in my floor to get more heat upstairs but I guess I may be able to with these vents. Ill have to check with my local building inspector and a friend who does heating and ac.

 

[Shari]

When you cut a hole in your floor to get heat to the upstairs you are putting a hole in the natural fire break that is created between floors.

In the area I reside in, that 'natural firebreak' is exactly why some homeowners insurance companies really don't want to insure the older style farm houses as they were constructed without 'fire breaks' between floors. In the construction of the old-style farm houses, each interior wall is open from the basement all the way up to the attic - therefore each interior wall essentially acts as an un-dampered chimney if a fire begins in any floor below the attic.

Construction codes have improved since 'back then' and homes are now constructed with 'fire breaks' between floors. If you alter this 'fire break' you just created an internal chimney without a damper. That's why 'fire dampers' are used within residential codes - in my area. Your mileage may vary in the area you live in - but - why take a chance?

 

[MishMouse]

That is why I went with a fire damper.
They are not cheap, but my family's lives are far more valuable then a few extra $.