liner install and questions w/pics

[Blue Vomit]

I currently have my Oslo hooked up to a pre existing insulated ss liner. The liner is about 25' and 8". I am considering switching to the recommended 6" liner for better stove performance. My current liner is 3 years old and seems to be cemented in. Rather than breaking this up and ripping the 8" insulated liner out, can I just drop an uninsulated 6" liner down inside it? liner goes down to a tee, then rear vented to the Oslo. Any thoughts and ideas would be appreciated.
A quick footnote. I'm not exactly Bob Villa in the DYI area if you know what I mean.
How easy or difficult of a job is this?

 

[pen]

Yea, that is an option as I can't see how it could cause any safety issues.

If I were doing that, at the very least I would want to make sure that I had appropriate insulation packed around the top of the new liner and then again at the bottom. You may even have room for a 6 inch pre-insulated liner if you wanted to go the distance.

Also, I'd probably ditch the old cap, cut the 8in liner flush at the top, and use a new top plate and cap to fit the new liner.

It looks like the old T and snout at the bottom could come off and you'd just use a 6 in one in place.

pen

 

[mellow]

Since the 8" is insulated I would just drop a 6" down it and install a 6" tee at the bottom with a cleanout, that way you could run a soot eater up it.

Not difficult at all.

 

[Dakotas Dad]

You could even use the oportunity to offset those stacks.. I am pretty sure they should have more of a height difference between them.

 

[Blue Vomit]

You could even use the oportunity to offset those stacks.. I am pretty sure they should have more of a height difference between them.

thanks, second stack is not in use. It goes to the basement fireplace. I had to cap it last year because we were getting smoke in through it. go figure.

 

[webby3650]

since your chimney has been relined I'm willing to bet it experienced a chimney fire, the easiest solution to repair the cracked clay liners, was to reline it with a stainless steel liner one point of concern when the cemented it in on the top the should have pitched the cement to deflect water from the liner. as mentioned if you do install a 6" liner make sure you extend it beyond the other cap and use the proper termination cap tested and listed with that liner

It probably started that way, then sunk before it set up. Not really an issue since it has that large cap. It would have been nice if they used the proper top plate and cap, I would definitely cut that 8" liner down and use the proper 6" top plate and cap. This job won't be too bad, you can do it!

 

[avc8130]

You could even use the oportunity to offset those stacks.. I am pretty sure they should have more of a height difference between them.

Offset the stacks?

Is that necessary? I have 2 flues in my masonry chimney. Both go from the basement, up the middle of the house and out the top of the roof 3' above. 1 flue is fed with a thimble in the basement for the oil burner. The other flue is fed with a thimble for my Jotul 500. Are the stacks supposed to be different heights? Doesn't that wind up violating the 3' higher than anything within 10' rule?

ac

 

[webby3650]

You could even use the oportunity to offset those stacks.. I am pretty sure they should have more of a height difference between them.

Offset the stacks?

Is that necessary? I have 2 flues in my masonry chimney. Both go from the basement, up the middle of the house and out the top of the roof 3' above. 1 flue is fed with a thimble in the basement for the oil burner. The other flue is fed with a thimble for my Jotul 500. Are the stacks supposed to be different heights? Doesn't that wind up violating the 3' higher than anything within 10' rule?

ac

Not at all, this rule is a minimum. If flues are the same height and close together, one side will occasionally down draft.

 

[avc8130]

There are codes concerning exit termination heights and also good practice the minimum height separation should be 9"
what happens to initiate down drafting into an adjacent flue is having a cap with a roof or a common flue cap servicing more than pone chimney
smoke wants to continue to rise but gets caught under that cap since the burner shuts down longer because your stove is doing its job, it cools and cold air descending drags the smoke down with it. every liner has a tested and listed termination cap use it and use it to raise the separation distance

That is VERY interesting. My current chimney has both flues right next to each other...exiting at the same height...and, you guessed it, there is one common cap.

I honestly have no clue if the stove ever back drafts into the oil burner.

I do have to redo my chimney covering as the contractor did the faux stone work improperly. I was thinking about adding a bit of height, now it seems like I might have another issue to play with.

ac

 

[Blue Vomit]

since your chimney has been relined I'm willing to bet it experienced a chimney fire, the easiest solution to repair the cracked clay liners, was to reline it with a stainless steel liner one point of concern when the cemented it in on the top the should have pitched the cement to deflect water from the liner. as mentioned if you do install a 6" liner make sure you extend it beyond the other cap and use the proper termination cap tested and listed with that liner

It probably started that way, then sunk before it set up. Not really an issue since it has that large cap. It would have been nice if they used the proper top plate and cap, I would definitely cut that 8" liner down and use the proper 6" top plate and cap. This job won't be too bad, you can do it!

Thanks for the encouragement, ive screwed up way easier things than this.

 

[Blue Vomit]

You could even use the oportunity to offset those stacks.. I am pretty sure they should have more of a height difference between them.

Offset the stacks?

Is that necessary? I have 2 flues in my masonry chimney. Both go from the basement, up the middle of the house and out the top of the roof 3' above. 1 flue is fed with a thimble in the basement for the oil burner. The other flue is fed with a thimble for my Jotul 500. Are the stacks supposed to be different heights? Doesn't that wind up violating the 3' higher than anything within 10' rule?

ac

Not at all, this rule is a minimum. If flues are the same height and close together, one side will occasionally down draft.

been there. the whole newly finished basement smelled like smoke. nice.

 

[BrotherBart]

...every liner has a tested and listed termination cap use it

And every liner vendor on the planet will sell you a liner without a cap.

A 304 SS cap is a 304 SS cap. Use what works.

 

[webby3650]

most kits come with a termination cap it is best to use that cap

I see being done, is the installers cut the roof of that common cap and extend the liner above that common cap, therefore instantly solving the trapped smoke issue and also accomplishing the separation issue

one is mush better to have separate caps, then the common multi flue one or none at all in the case of a masonry chimney

I disagree, I think a multi flue cap is better than no cap at all. If you have a down draft problem it can often be solved with a little trouble shooting.