Liner saftey questions

[Name Goes Here]

Hi
I am new to these forums but have read them a lot in the last week. I will explain what I've done followed by my questions.

I just purchased and installed a Century CW2900 in an old Heatolater fireplace. The fireplace is in the basement of a one story ranch from 1949 and the masonry chimney is internal to the house 22ft tall.

Reasoning was mortar deterioration and some cracks in the clay flue on the upper portion the chimney, Throat connection from the Heatolator to the clay liner was never sealed properly (tight).

I installed a Homesavers 6" SS liner with NO insulation due to the clay liner size 6 3/4 by 11 ID. I did use a block off plate at the "throat" of the clay liner and back filled with Evergaurd around the new liner. No I couldn't get the one inch clearance on the smaller dimension side.

I burned for about 7 hours yesterday and noticed the walls around the chimney got very warm. I was used to this since this happened even with the original fireplace. This morning I went into the attic and pulled back the insulation (R45) around the chimney and it was noticeably warm 12 hours after the fire was out.
The houses framing contacts the chimney at several locations: first floor joists, first floor wall and ceiling rafters, roof framing. At the roof framing the masonry of the chimney is much larger than the riser from the basement.

Ok, I know that was a load to read, so now for my questions.

Using the evergaurd mix it states not to run flue temps above 700 for about three weeks. Could the moisture in the mix be acting as a conductor?

Did I make a mistake by not putting the block off plate at the old soot shelf? Since now this cavernous area can collect heat and conduct it to the surrounding masonry.

Does it sound safe? If not what would you recommend?

 

[bholler]

It is probably safe but it does not meet code and there is a possible safety issue there with combustibles in contact with the outside of the masonry. It is possibly made worse by the moisture in the mix. I would have either ovalized the liner or broken out the old clay

 

[Name Goes Here]

Thanks for your reply. I don't know why but sometimes I just need to be told the obvious! I was just in a rush by the time I got to the insert part of the job (been remodeling the basement).

So what do you think of this. . . I have looked at the framing and even though it may be a bit of work I can remove the box framing around the chimney and move it out 3 to 4 inches. I would have to remove one section of wall in a bedroom and cedar lined closet and jut it out the same distance. I can definitely achieve a 3 to 4 inch clearance the around the entire chimney.

In the Spring I will remove the SS liner and remove the clay liner then insulate the SS liner properly.

I would rather over do it than be unsafe. I took temps yesterday with only a 6 hour burn and the hottest location was in between the basement joist and the chimney at 108 degrees. Starting temp was 80. Other locations got warm but I did remove the box framing in the attic and the temp never got above 75 between the header of the wall and the chimney. What this tells me is that with prolonged burning it would be a hazardous situation.

It is probably safe but it does not meet code and there is a possible safety issue there with combustibles in contact with the outside of the masonry. It is possibly made worse by the moisture in the mix. I would have either ovalized the liner or broken out the old clay

 

[begreen]

A 28 degree rise is safe. 108F is not too hot. Our old chimney with a liner often got up to around 120F. Hot water pipes go through wood at higher temps. I would keep an eye on the temps, but would worry too much if the highest reading you get at any time is below about 160F. A block-off plate should have been installed. Otherwise what was the stop for the everguard at the bottom?

 

[Name Goes Here]

Hi, I did install a block off plate but I think I put it to high up. I mounted it at the throaght (where the heatolater meets the clay tile) of the chimney and not the smoke shelf.

The 108 was only after a 6 hour slow burn. The temp rise started very slow and after four hours rapidly increased.

I already started removing some walls and studs to get the clearance required. I can tell you those must have been some very angry masons who installed this. The carpenters had framed everything before the chimney was built. The motor behind the lumber is adheared to the lumber! Solid contact.

A 28 degree rise is safe. 108F is not too hot. Our old chimney with a liner often got up to around 120F. Hot water pipes go through wood at higher temps. I would keep an eye on the temps, but would worry too much if the highest reading you get at any time is below about 160F. A block-off plate should have been installed. Otherwise what was the stop for the everguard at the bottom?