Looking at a wood hauler, '73 Dodge 3/4 ton

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snowleopard

Minister of Fire
Dec 9, 2009
1,495
So I have the stove, and now I have the saw, one thing is just leading to another. The fella that sold the saw is trying to sell his truck so he can go back home, and I'm considering buying it, and also considering that I might be a little nutso to consider it.

It's a flatbed, body is what passes for rusted around here (some holes in floorboards, bottom of the doors getting pretty flimsy), but to me, form follows function, and I couldn't care less about a little rust. He says that it starts right up at -40, runs strong, has good brakes, the tires look great, has a hauling bumper on the back, and he said that he ran a 4000 lb load a few hundred miles out of town last week without bottoming out the springs. It also has heavy-duty leaf springs on top of the other springs, but the support that runs from truck to h-d springs is not installed.

That's the good stuff. The bad stuff is that this truck has been around so long it came off the assembly line in the Nixon administration, it slurps down a $4 gallon of gas every 10 miles, and it's almost 40 years old. And I'm not a mechanic. But this thing looks like if you played with legos as a kid, you can work on it.

I've done stupider things than buying this truck, but they usually didn't work out so well either.

Here's my vision of how I would use it.

For the three or four times a year I really need a truck--refilling my propane bottle, hauling a vehicle out of a ditch, etc.

Hauling household water. I pay 8.5 cents a gallon for water, hauled in by tanker a couple of times a month. The service is great, but it's a big expense. I could haul it myself with this truck for 1.5 cents a gallon. That run would cost me $8 round trip, today's prices. If I hauled 500 gallons at a time, I'd save about $100 a month on water. If I combined that with a town run that I had to make anyway, say, drove it to work, it would save a little gas and a run on my car. I have a 250 gallon tank, would have to get another to make this worth the trip. Used tanks run about $1 a gallon, but hold their value if cared for. I figure if it ran water loads for a year, it wouldn't owe me a penny.

Hauling wood.

Any words of wisdom on this one? Opinions? Advice?
 
how much dose he want for the truck?
 
If you were someone who works on their own vehicles, I'd say go for it because when it won't start (and there will be days it won't start), you'll know what to do. Though, it sounds like you're not someone who does a lot of auto work. Well, this would be a good opportunity to learn. Where are you located? ie: are you in one of the rusty states?

If you want to look at it more closely, here are some things to check out.
Soundness of engine; quality of oil/tans fluid; will it pass state inspection as is or will it need work; problems caused by rust: brake lines/automatic transmission lines (if applicable)/excessive rust on the frame/areas where you may have to get some bolts undone to work on something/non-factory welds on the frame or other areas; hacked up wiring jobs.

500 gallons of water weighs about 4000 pounds. Will it haul that much?

I guess if everything checks out you just have to ask yourself a few questions.. can you fix things as they come up? can you make it road legal? will you be better off with a newer truck that gets a bit better mileage? Though, given a choice between a 20 year old rusty pickup and a 40 year old one, the older ones generally were made with thicker metal. Plus, body panels for the older ones are usually available cheaply if you want to get into doing body work.
 
He's asking $1000.

Here's what he said about it: The guy that had it before me didnt do alot to maintain it aside from putting a bunch of high flow intake parts on a stock motor. Its got an edlebrock high flow intake and a giant 4 barrel carb so it sucks more gas than it needs, but i found a stock intake and 2 barrel carb that i was going to put on it so it should get around 10-14 mpg. the heat works but theres so much rust it stays pretty cool in the cab. sorry it really is rough looking. I found a guy that has the same truck for parts and was going to pick it up if i dont sell it, but im sure hed sell me some parts if you want it and want me to put anything on it.
 
What are driving now? Maybe all you need is a good trailer. No insurance, barely any maintenance and they keep their value quite well.
 
homebrewz said:
If you were someone who works on their own vehicles, I'd say go for it because when it won't start (and there will be days it won't start), you'll know what to do. Though, it sounds like you're not someone who does a lot of auto work. Well, this would be a good opportunity to learn. Where are you located? ie: are you in one of the rusty states?
Fairbanks, AK, not a rusty state--no salt use for ice on the roads here.
If you want to look at it more closely, here are some things to check out.
Soundness of engine; quality of oil/tans fluid; will it pass state inspection as is or will it need work; problems caused by rust: brake lines/automatic transmission lines (if applicable)/excessive rust on the frame/areas where you may have to get some bolts undone to work on something/non-factory welds on the frame or other areas; hacked up wiring jobs.

500 gallons of water weighs about 4000 pounds. Will it haul that much?

The engine purrs like a kitten. (A large kitten.) It's made a recent 300 mile round trip on a rural road, hauling a 4000 lb load out there. It would have had to pull some pretty good hills on the trip. We no longer have a state inspection program. It's been recently tagged, so good for another 2 years. The frame looks solid, and the wood bed is in good shape. The seller is mechanical, said he put $700 into brakes after he bought it (a few months ago).

I guess if everything checks out you just have to ask yourself a few questions.. can you fix things as they come up? can you make it road legal? will you be better off with a newer truck that gets a bit better mileage? Though, given a choice between a 20 year old rusty pickup and a 40 year old one, the older ones generally were made with thicker metal. Plus, body panels for the older ones are usually available cheaply if you want to get into doing body work.

You're right, I don't have a lot of background in this, but I have a garage, which is a huge plus here.
 
Jack Straw said:
What are driving now? Maybe all you need is a good trailer. No insurance, barely any maintenance and they keep their value quite well.

That's a thought, but would only solve some of the problems.

I'm driving a 1991 Subaru legacy that I am trying to baby along to last me awhile. She's got 180K miles on her.

I also have a '94 Jeep that has about 260K. Has a slightly wonky transfer case, so try to stay out of 4WD.

I have a 1981 Toyota pu that has a few serious flaws--engine has no oomph left, and something's gone wrong with the steering this winter--has been too cold to get it up and running to check it out. Thinking about moving this one along to a son of a friend who has the expertise, tools, and will to work on old rigs. This one just doesn't have the power left to haul much of anything, including herself.
 
It sounds to me that you need to get a better primary vehicle.
 
Had a 2008 Corolla that my young driver rolled after an ice storm this winter. I don't fault him for that--a lot of older and more experienced drivers were in the ditches during and after that storm. I'd told him that if you start to slide, hold down the ABS brakes, don't tap. I didn't explain that this did not apply when you are sliding sideways. Anyway, he's fine, car was totalled, and insurance only paid a pittance on it--and so did the GAP--didn't know they could do that. Still fighting this one out, meanwhile still paying on the new car. It's soured me a bit on new-ish cars.

I so appreciate that Subaru. I love the 4WD, good tires, runs well, not too bad on gas.

Two kids in expensive schools--scholarships are helping a lot, but don't cover everything. Mortgage, doctor bills, single mom, yadda. Options are limited. Wood stove saved my bacon this year when the boiler went out. This sounds pretty whiney, and I don't mean it that way. I've got a decent job, and no one's shooting at us. Kids will be out of school in a few more years. It's all part of the adventure, ya know? I'm just trying to stay ahead of the wave here, and if I do, it's going to work out.

This is why I tend to think every decision to death--just can't afford big mistakes right now.
 
Do you have the time and/or the tools to work on it. Both can really screw you over. If you don't have the time it will sit unfixed the same as if you didn't have the tools. This truck is going to need work, it's just a question of when.

This is one of those areas where you have to ask yourself if you are getting in above your head. You have 2 other vehicles that are in need of work. Do you really want a 3rd sitting in your yard? That 81 Toyota should be just as easy to work on as this truck. Why haven't you corrected the problems it has?

Auto work is mostly like a lego thing.

Matt
 
It sounds like you would benefit from a truck. I think the question is if you buy this truck, how much would it cost you over 5 years in repairs? I see that as your risk. It must be in pretty bad shape for $1000. If however a mechanic thinks you can get another 50K miles out of it without major repairs (read engine or transmission), it may be worth it.

Is it the original engine? How many miles are supposed to be on the engine?
 
EatenByLimestone said:
Do you have the time and/or the tools to work on it. Both can really screw you over. If you don't have the time it will sit unfixed the same as if you didn't have the tools. This truck is going to need work, it's just a question of when.

This is one of those areas where you have to ask yourself if you are getting in above your head. You have 2 other vehicles that are in need of work. Do you really want a 3rd sitting in your yard? That 81 Toyota should be just as easy to work on as this truck. Why haven't you corrected the problems it has?

Auto work is mostly like a lego thing.

Matt

The toyota had been given away to a friend in need several years ago, just gave it back last fall. Drove it home, parked it, got ready to put it to use hauling in wood from my property, found it had two flat tires. Next day the snow hit big, so the wood hauling job was nixed for the winter. Got replacements, but had to lift that to get the rims, got jackstands, and found the nuts were immobile. Even rented a impact wrench to do that job, couldn't get them lose. Finally my son got the tires off, and we got those changed out. Battery was ancient history, got that replaced--it was about -40 at that point but had to get it moved because it was blocking the garage and the then-broken-down jeep needed to get repaired and back in service. This was about the time the boiler went out, just before the Corolla died. Got the pu moving, discovered the steering problem. Moved it over beside the house and have been waiting for the snow to melt, school to get out, and vacation to arrive to get that checked out. Meanwhile taking care of groceries, cooking, laundry, cleaning, replacing kitchen lights, repairing oven when that failed, and keeping the house warm with a wood stove. Plus hauling in wood from stacks via a sled, since I couldn't get it in with the truck. Also trying to get ready for a wood delivery (that's been cancelled four times).

So it's on my list. Just not real high.
 
That old dog gets the same gas mileage as newer 3/4 ton trucks. I know, I have one. Average is never over 10.9 mpg.
 
MarkinNC said:
It sounds like you would benefit from a truck.
Oddly enough, it took me awhile to figure this out. I was looking for another car after the Corolla died, but kept reading the truck ads, and finally thought this through and am looking harder now for a truck. I'm partial to the F150's, but fear that they wouldn't have enough power to get run with heavy loads like the water and the wood. Started looking at the 250s today. Could take on a loan for a vehicle, just would prefer to avoid that if I can. I'm looking for an inexpensive, cheap-to-run, dependable vehicle with charm and personality, but no quirks. I figure there's a parking lot of these just inside the gate of heaven.

I think the question is if you buy this truck, how much would it cost you over 5 years in repairs? I see that as your risk. It must be in pretty bad shape for $1000. If however a mechanic thinks you can get another 50K miles out of it without major repairs (read engine or transmission), it may be worth it.

I baby my vehicles--that Toy pu has 325K miles on it, poor thing--and would only need this 3-4 dozen times a year, I'm thinking.

Is it the original engine? How many miles are supposed to be on the engine?
I think he said that it had about 150K miles on it, but I'm wondering why a previous owner put an aftermarket, 4-barrel carb on it--to run it as a mudder, perhaps?
 
My 2 cents - and I've got lots of experience with bad (and good) vehicles. Interesting, I've actually owned within the past 2 years all of the ones you have - 81 toyota 4X4, 90 Subaru Legacy, currently drive a Jeep Cherokee. Several 3/4 ton trucks as well, and I've "specialized" for better or worse in the buy-em-cheap and fix-em strategy, but I have a bit of experience and low expectations, as well as a shop for the inevitable problems I never saw before I bought it. These days my time means more than it used to, so I'd rather use it for other things than new projects.

For your Dodge, I'd have to say be careful about the cost-benefit thing. Only a few times a year means little use, but also means that any repair will set your "balance sheet" way off. And on that thing, there will likely be repairs. Most owners get used to those little things and figurfe it's an old truck, so the owner may unintentionally neglect to mention them. You have the potential for frame rust, which can have bad consequences when hauling 4000 lbs of water. Best thing to do is take it to a shop, pay $75 or so, and have them go over it and make a recommendation. If it were me, and I've taken more chances on old vehicles than anyone ever should, I'd be leery for the price he's asking. Now if it has a rebuilt transmission and/or motor maybe, but him hauling 4000 lbs with 150000 miles would make me check the transmision closely. Also check and see what motor it's got - a 360 or 440 are most common. Check the wheels - if it's old split rims their deadly and will need to be replaced. No matter what, you'll dump some $ into it. Tires ($400-500), fluids and tuneup ($250+), maybe a battery ($80), and whatever needed repairs are identified. Suspensions addd up quickly too. I'd plan on $1500-2K for a $1000 truck and you might be close. But afterwards, you have a truck that you know the ins and outs of, and what works and what doesn't - which is nice.
 
moosetrek said:
I found the 81 toyota and the Subaru both very easy to work on-

Thanks for the thoughtful reply--much to consider there.

If I may threadjack my own thread, the toyota has gotten very hard to steer--just went from being able to steer with a very light touch to having to force the wheel to get any movement. Any ideas about where to look first, and what the problem might be with that?
 
I have two older pickups, both about 10-12 years newer than yours and here is my take on Dodges:

They are decent runners but tend to have more electrical problems.

The carburetors they used on the late 70's and early 80's models are finicky and difficult to tune unless you're very handy.

Their parts are more expensive than the equivalent Ford or Chevy and there are less aftermarket parts.

If I had a choice I'd look into a mid 1980's Ford or Chevy 3/4 Ton for a wood hauler.

I recently bought a 86' Ford F250 to replace my Dodge W150 and am already surprised how inexpensive parts are for it.
 
snowleopard said:
moosetrek said:
I found the 81 toyota and the Subaru both very easy to work on-

Thanks for the thoughtful reply--much to consider there.

If I may threadjack my own thread, the toyota has gotten very hard to steer--just went from being able to steer with a very light touch to having to force the wheel to get any movement. Any ideas about where to look first, and what the problem might be with that?

I'll send you a PM-
 
SnowLeopard, if you have a set of jackstands, jack up the Toy and have someone run the wheel back and forth while you look at the linkage. Listen for odd noises. Fluid level in resivoir and belts are easy to check. I had an '82 SR5 that steered stiff unless the belt was tight. As far as the Dodge goes, tough call. If he'll take $800, then buy it and run it until it's dead. Keep the existing engine hardware, don't spend the money on swapping to a 2-bbl. carb, you'll regret it. A good friend of mine is from Fairbanks, lots of family and friends up there. I'll PM if she can direct you to a good mech. to have the Dodge checked out, also work on the others. JB
 
I have to agree with Matt and Moosetrek on this one. Could be a big headache unless you really like fixing vehicles.

As for the Toyota. Does that thing have power steering? If not, I'd check the gear box.. could have leaked all of the fluid out and now the gears are going.
As for the loss of power, a compression test should be done. It would answer some questions.
 
Something to think about with the old Toyotas that may be a free way to get some more power. IIRC a friend who had one sometimes had to adjust his rocker arms. I figured he had solid lifters? One of the other guys can probably confirm this. If they are worn down they might not be opening the valves as much as they should. This would not let enough air/fuel into the engine... less power. It's probably not a big thing, but with older engines it's usually a lot of little things vs. one big thing. It's something to check if the compression test checks out.

Matt
 
+1 on the compression test. Those '80 series Toys are very good vehicles, simple and solid. For me, solid front axle and gear driven T/C set them apart.
 
Yep - my 81 was great (except for rebuilding the front axle - more grease then I'd ever seen!). I tipped mine over on a mountain, pulled it back onto the wheels and then drove 450 miles home in a blizzard with no problems (except the missing drivers window) - pretty reliable I'd say.
 
Moosetrek, like the reference to the Frost poem in your signature.

Yeah.. I've owned 5 Toyotas from '87 to '94 all with the 22RE engine. I think the early 80's had a 20R series engine. Could be that there is bad compression in one or more cylinders from worn rings, and/or worn valves. If that checks out, it could be something as simple as a plugged catalytic converter, if it has one. A compression test is fairly easy to accomplish. If you know anyone that works on vehicles as a hobby, they more than likely would have a compression tester you could borrow.

Don't know about the 20R series, but the 22RE's are great expect for their timing chain setup... those plastic guides either broke apart or the chain would stretch eventually and wear its way into the timing chain housing and ultimately into the water pump passageways. Fun!
 
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