Looking to buy new BAR (and other questions) for my Husky 455 Rancher - best ONLINE parts store?

[donatello]

The bar on my Husqvarna 455 Rancher (that I bought in October) is in need of replacement. All of a sudden, it would not cut straight. It wanted to cut at a curve. I flipped the bar and readjusted the chain. The chain was sort of flopping from side to side. Is the chain generally OK to use with a new bar. (I will inspect) Or is it considered a "no-no" to EVER use a chain that came off of a worn bar...
Is this an unusually short period of time for the bar to wear-out? I cut maybe about 3-4 cord of oak and maple with it.
Also the saw is a a pain-in-the-arse to get started. Once its started, it runs like a champ. I was thinking the oil/fuel ratio was not ideal at some point and left me with a not so clean sparkplug (I think I'll replace it when I get a new bar).
What ONLINE store (or any other) has the best prices for Husky parts.

 

[mikeyny]

It sounds to me that your bar oiler is not working. A bar should last a very long time with proper wear. A worn bar can be re ground by your local saw shop. Normally when a saw cuts a curve it simply means that the chain has hit something bad and has dulled unevenly. Probably dull on the side it cuts toward. Replace or sharpen the chain before you buy a bar.

Mike

 

[pinewoodburner]

Try this one
http://www.baileysonline.com/

They sell a Woodsman Pro chain for that saw at an excellent price.

 

[jebatty]

The bar on my Husqvarna 455 Rancher (that I bought in October) is in need of replacement. All of a sudden, it would not cut straight. It wanted to cut at a curve. I flipped the bar and readjusted the chain. The chain was sort of flopping from side to side. Is the chain generally OK to use with a new bar. (I will inspect) Or is it considered a "no-no" to EVER use a chain that came off of a worn bar...
Is this an unusually short period of time for the bar to wear-out? I cut maybe about 3-4 cord of oak and maple with it.
Also the saw is a a pain-in-the-arse to get started. Once its started, it runs like a champ. I was thinking the oil/fuel ratio was not ideal at some point and left me with a not so clean sparkplug (I think I'll replace it when I get a new bar).
What ONLINE store (or any other) has the best prices for Husky parts.

Couple of ideas. 1) chain should never flop, should have minimal wiggle side to side when chain is tensioned properly. I tension until about 1/4" lift in middle of bar. If there still is wiggle, then bar rails are spread, and these can be closed with a bar rail closer. 2) cutting in a curve may not be fault of bar but of worn cutters on chain. Did you hit a rock, dirt, etc. A few worn cutters can cause a chain to cut in one direction or the other. Also, if chain in general is dull and you are working the saw, this can cause cutting in a curve. 3) you might have bent your bar by wedging it in a cut, or when felling a tree and tree fell on the bar still in the cut. Sometimes you can put the bar in a cut and gently twist the bar to straighten it and the bar will work OK after that. 4) I have never been concerned about a used chain in reasonable condition on a new or old bar. I never have experienced DL's worn so much that they differ noticeably chain to chain. Keep the bar rails properly closed. 5) not related to your issue, but also file the flat of the bar next to the rails. Burs occur and these should be filed off. A special two-side filing tool is made for this which files the flat side and the chain side of the bar at the same time to keep them square and bur free. 6) if ever you are working the saw, rather than letting the saw doing the work, let up, sharpen the chain, take a break. These things have an engine for a reason. 7) I've seen more problems from a dull chain than anything else. Learn how to file the chain, keep it sharp, and you rarely will have a problem.

I cut about 15 cords of firewood per year; also fell trees for about 5000 bd ft of lumber per year. My saws: Stilhl 026 Pro with 16" bar, 11 years old; Husky 372XPG with 18" bar, 5 years old. Always use premium gas (no ethanol) and stabilizer. Hand file my own chains, rotate about 10 chains for each saw, have not yet worn out a chain.

 

[carpniels]

HI Donatello,

That is weird. A worn out bar after just 4 months. I believe the others are correct; either you hit something, or the bar got pinched badly, or your cutters are not identical left and right.

I have the same thing that the chain does not cut straight. The issue is that hand sharpening the cutters, normally one side gets sharpened more agressively (your strong arm pushing the file) than the other side. You can see this if you have an older chain that has been sharpened many times: the cutters are longer on one side than the other.

Also, my chain also wiggles a little bit on the bar. The reason often is, that the chain needs to be tightened more. This will prevent the wiggling greatly.

Good luck

CarpNiels

 

[jebatty]

. . . the chain does not cut straight. The issue is that hand sharpening the cutters, normally one side gets sharpened more agressively (your strong arm pushing the file) than the other side. You can see this if you have an older chain that has been sharpened many times: the cutters are longer on one side than the other. . .

Not sure I agree with this one, but have not measured my cutters to see if a major difference. I did take a safety class from a long-time, chainsaw logger pro, and he flat out stated that irregular cutter length makes no appreciable difference in saw performance. He stated that machine sharpening, which produces cutters all of the same length, wastes lots of chain. Better to hand sharpen, disregard different length cutter, and cut away until nothing left of one or more cutters. I have followed that advice for 2 years now and notice no difference in cutting performance.

Other pros have a say on this?

 

[olive wood]

Visit this thread and the links therein - https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/13334/#147373

 

[cmonSTART]

Ya, a bar shouldn't wear out that quickly in normal circumstances. Be sure you're not forcing the bar down, keep it from getting pinched etc. Generally, you shouldn't use old chains with a new bar. There are exceptions, but older chains with their damage and uneven wear can then in turn wear out t he new bar very quickly to match their damage. If your bar rails are worn crooked, chances are an old chain is going to be worn crooked too. If you put that crooked chain onto a new bar, it then wears the new bar crooked very quickly.

 

[TMonter]

Norwalk Power Equipment Company is another good spot to source a bar & chain(s).

http://norwalkpower.com/

 

[pdboilermaker]

The "curve" cut is not the bar, it is the chain. It is unequally sharp on the left/right teeth. The cut will curve in the direction of the sharper teeth as they are sharper and cut more wood. You may have hit a nail or some wire fence, cut through a log and grounded the chain whatever.

Bottom line, sharpen or replace your chain, dont replace the bar.

 

[Gooserider]

As I mentioned elsewhere, I just purchased a new Dolmar from Amick's Superstore had excellent service, they also sell bars and chains, and claim to match or beat prices on chains - I paid $55 for a 28" Oregon Pro-tip bar, and I think it was $12 for 20" chains and $15 for 28", Oregon full chisel to match the saw. They also have the tools for doing bar repair and maintainance on their site.

I agree with the other posters that you probably have chain problems, but you may also need to give some attention to your bar. Sharpening after every tank will help, and FWIW, the guy that taught me hand sharpening also said that he didn't think it made much difference if the cutters weren't all the same length, or even the same angle, as long as they were close.

He also runs his chains far looser than most folks, and I've found the saw does seem to run better that way.

However if your saw is not running right, it may be worth getting a tuneup and checkover from your dealer.

ART