Lopi Endeavor Clearance Question

[sixman]

Okay, I am trying to install my Endeavor and have ran into a problem. The way I had planned on installing the stove lines my pipe up with a rafter. I can rotate the stove 90 degrees and it will clear the rafter but sticks out in the hallway a little too much. My question is this. The brochure show the rear clearance to be 4.25 inches and the side clearance to be 13 inches. Both the side and rear of the Endeavor have heat shields on them so why the high side clearance? The DVL pipe is much closer to the rear of the stove than the side so it can't be for the clearance of the pipe.

 

[Dakotas Dad]

Because the stove gets hot? and they have tested it and found that at that distance it won't get a surface hot enough to ignite?

It lines up with a ceiling joist, or a rafter? If it's a joist, box that joist. If it's a rafter use a pair of 30degree or 15degree chimney sections to move it to where it misses.. or you can in fact box a rafter, it's how they put in sky lights and such. Not really recomomended, but it's been done.

 

[djblech]

Put the chimney in where it fits the best. Then adapt your black pipe to it.(from stove to chimney) Even if you use doublewall you can use 15* and/or 22.5* elbows to bend to the chimney. I did this at my cabin and it looks kind of neat. Somewhere here I read that the class a chimney has to be a straight shot, but the inside connector can have elbows.
Doug

 

[sixman]

DD I think most of us realize that stoves get hot but thanks for reminding us. The question was since the side and rear of the stove both have the same heat shield, why almost 10 inches more clearance is needed for the side?

 

[madrone]

The heat shields on the sides are much closer than on the back. I'm not sure if there's another layer of insulation or thicker gauge steel in the back, but when the stove is running it's much warmer on the sides than the back. I can put my hand on the back shield and it's just warm. If the sides had the same level of shielding, I suspect the stove would only provide radiant heat from the front and top. I'd say the sides are designed to compromise between radiant and convective heat.

 

[begreen]

The simple answer is that Lopi has tested the stove and it gets hotter on the sides. I would hazard a guess that the rear shield is not the same as the sides. Quite often the rear-shield is spaced farther back and forms an integral duct for the blower system. This means it has a bottom and top vent which enables it to stay cooler. Check your stove to see if this is the case.

As for location, can the stove be placed at a 45° angle so that it becomes a corner installation? Or two 45's can be joined to create an offset coming off the stove so that the double-wall aligns with the ceiling support box. This is the way our stove had to be connected.

 

[sixman]

I really wanted to stay away from the offsets for a good draft but I think that is out the window. I will install the roof support box where it aligns North and South and then install offsets to align the pipe East and West. Yes I could install at a 45 to make it a corner install but I think it would also stick out in the hallway a little too much. Waiting on my help to arrive to tote the beast, 450 lbs, onto the hearth and ponder the positioning.

 

[begreen]

It is so much easier to play around with a template of the stove for positioning. Make a cardboard template of the exact footprint of the stove and mark a 6" circle in the exact location of the flue.

 

[oldspark]

If you have a good drawing chimney the offsets won't have much of an effect.

 

[begreen]

That's my thought too, unless the flue is already going to be on the short side. If not it should be fine, especially on a stove with a bypass for starts and reloads.

 

[sixman]

Well I got my help over and set the stove in place. We turned 90 degrees and it looks like we will be able to install it with no offsets and get my 4.25 inches to the rear and 13 inches to the side. Using the cardboard template it sure looked like it was going to intrude on the hallway but with the stove in place it came out fine. I wasn't sure if the 13 inches side clearance was from the side of the stove or the lip of the top plates that hang over a bit so I went on the safe side and measured from the top plate. Framed in my ceiling support box and mounted it. Cut and installed the hardiboard to cover the big hole in the ceiling that was left from removing the old gas furnace. I would post some pics but the whole area is a mess right now. I better get back to work cleaning up. Plan on running the chimney through the roof tomorrow, weather permitting and maybe a small test fire tomorrow evening.

Thanks to all for the input and advice given since I have started this project.

 

[begreen]

That's great sixman. Good to hear it worked out simply and well for you. Will you need to add to the hearth for an extension in front of the the stove or are you all set?

 

[madrone]

Quite often the rear-shield is spaced farther back and forms an integral duct for the blower system. This means it has a bottom and top vent which enables it to stay cooler.

Right. Not sure why I didn't think about that. There is a channel for the blower vent, and also an additional heat shield at a greater distance than the side shields.

Anyway, well done sixman. Looking forward to pics.

 

[sixman]

Yes I will actually need to add to the front and side of the hearth. I had planned the hearth to fit the stove and not code. I live way out in the country and we have no codes for building or adding on however I will meet code for insurance purposes and overall safety. Luckily the hearth was just large enough for me to set it in place for the install and I have plenty of time to take up some of the vinyl tile and add ceramic around it to meet manufactures specs. Kinda afraid to post pics until all is done, I know others will point out what I know I need to complete but is sure looks good to us. I might even be able to test fire it tomorrow.

 

[begreen]

Kinda afraid to post pics until all is done, I know others will point out what I know I need to complete but is sure looks good to us. I might even be able to test fire it tomorrow.

We may seem like a tough audience, but ultimately, it's those munchkins that you need to be sure are safe. Don't rush things, do it right the first time.

 

[summit]

Simple answer as to the lower clearance is that the rear has a convection channel that runs around the bottom/rear/top that has air cycling thru, AS WELL as a rear heatshield behind that. Double layer, so to speak. Doing the math where a properly installed shield will reduce clearances by 66%, the combination of the two shields on the rear would concievably get you from the 13" down to 4.25"

 

[sixman]

I noticed that double air channel you are talking about when I took the stove off of the crate and put it on a dolly. We were taking it in the front door and while it was on it's side we laid the dolly down and got a flashlight to inspect the stove and figure out the air flow. It seems that the damper control handle in the front controls two air inlet doors on the bottom, one toward the front and one further back. And way way in the back there seems to be a very small air tube inlet that stays open all the time. I suppose that is how they meet some of the EPA requirements by not letting you shut the air completely off. I also noticed how the air draws from the front and bottom, up the back and over the top of the fire box as you said which is the second layer of rear protection you spoke of that I could not see while it was still on the pallet. I also saw the threaded holes where a fan would mount to move even more air if needed. So now I see how they got the rear clearance so low while the side is still 13 inches.

 

[sixman]

Here is my first burn

https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/55869/