Magnum Baby Countryside Installed and Running

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jrsdws said:
According to the manual: "The #2 heat level light is flashing- The stove’s vacuum switch tripped."

Just verifying then try this on for a moment when you increase the combustion air by opening the damper the flame becomes a lot hotter, that is why the color changed, the now hotter exhaust gases try to get out the exhaust but there is a downslope (looks like that from where I sit based upon the pictures) this down slope actually retards the flow of the gases allowing the temperature to build around the combustion blower, one the temperature there reaches the thermal protection limit the blower shuts down, this causes the controller to toss the #2 vacuum error.

This can also happen if there is enough back pressure in the exhaust to cause the pressure to drop below what the switch requires to stay closed causing the controller to toss the #2 vacuum error.
 
I hear ya Smokey, but if the stove shut down because of high temp, it would throw a different code, wouldn't it?
 
Dexter....You may be on to something. If there is a leak at a door gasket then opening the damper all the way could drop the vacuum just enough to trip the switch. I'm going to play with mine and see if I can get it to trip out.
 
CWR said:
I hear ya Smokey, but if the stove shut down because of high temp, it would throw a different code, wouldn't it?

The stove isn't seeing high temperatures because it doesn't monitor the exhaust system for high temperatures just the heat exchanger and that can overheat and the exhaust not, the exhaust will catch high temperatures as vacuum errors because the combustion blower goes out to lunch on a thermal protection shutdown and stays off until its thermal sees temperatures it likes.

There can also be enough back pressure to also cause the vacuum switch to open because of lack of sufficient pressure difference.

Things that cause back pressure are:

Restrictions in the vent and improperly installed venting.
 
jdempsey said:
http://magnumheatforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=43&t=279&sid=86bb480537aeb4a19491edad6f00b077

Some good info here. If you have the overflowing pot issue.

Great link.... But if you cover the top row of holes of the burn pot, you will get the same results. And keep a clean glass (what my buddy did) Same end result. More air to the burn pot. The Baby is highly lacking in Combustion air. Thats why there is that many complaints....

The question is why is the OP's kicking the #2 shutdown????...
 
Ok....I opened my damper all the way. Stove ran fine. Loosened the knobs on the ash door and in ten seconds got the blink code and shutdown. Closed the damper half way and loosened the knobs and the stove kept running. I think I would do the dollar bill check on the door and ash doors.
 
Put foil tape over the window air wash, leaving about an inch open in the middle....fired it up...and WOW...burning far better. I actually have ash flying when pellets drop now and I was able to open damper all the way and blow pellets right out of the pot. It did throw the blinkie once with damper wide open, but making great progress now.

I am going to leave it burn tonight....shut down in morning....go work the dogs and shoot a few quail...then come back and do dollar bill tests on all doors.

You just close the door with a bill in it and see if it pulls out, right?
 
You're making progress! That's what is great about this forum. No one screaming and calling each other names :) Yes, put the bill in, shut the door and see if it comes out easily.

Chan
 
Morning update: Good burn all night with no pellets building up, but rather burning complete. Leaving to go hunting for the day so will shut it down to cool and then do dollar bill tests when I get home. If that all looks good and time permits I'll hook up the thermostat.

Thanks for all the help guys.
 
So finally checking in here, been busy! For what it is worth, AES sells a higher volume comb fan, that is what I did to mine. I does burn much better with that fan, good enough for me to leave it alone and that is saying a lot. Their website has pretty good info too, and they have replied to my questions same day often so that's good too.
 
Update: Did the dollar bill test after a good cleaning this afternoon. The door gasket is very good, but the ash pan door sucks. I was suspect of this as it kind of had some wiggle when latched shut. To test it I closed it and put duct tape all the way around, sealing it off completely. I also replaced the foil on the window air wash and put a slit on each end instead of the middle. While shut down I installed a thermostat.

Well, she's burning like a champ now. I can adjust fully through the range of the damper without causing a shutdown. The t-stat works as it should also. Now I just have to tweak for optimal flame.

I'll have to check the latches on the ash pan door to see if there is any adjustment. The gasket material...looks like same stuff as door "rope"...but flat. Do they make different thicknesses of this stuff and what do you use to remove and attach it?
 
jrsdws said:
Update: Did the dollar bill test after a good cleaning this afternoon. The door gasket is very good, but the ash pan door sucks. I was suspect of this as it kind of had some wiggle when latched shut. To test it I closed it and put duct tape all the way around, sealing it off completely. I also replaced the foil on the window air wash and put a slit on each end instead of the middle. While shut down I installed a thermostat.

Well, she's burning like a champ now. I can adjust fully through the range of the damper without causing a shutdown. The t-stat works as it should also. Now I just have to tweak for optimal flame.

I'll have to check the latches on the ash pan door to see if there is any adjustment. The gasket material...looks like same stuff as door "rope"...but flat. Do they make different thicknesses of this stuff and what do you use to remove and attach it?
Thats great. Glad you got it lined out.
 
You can get gasket in just about any thickness, you can even use two thinner than needed ones by cementing on to one of the surfaces and the other to the other surface. Just use what you need to get a good seal and not stress the closing mechanism too much.
 
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That's great! The door gasket is usually glued on with high temp silicone. You can buy the gasket material at any stove shop...I think. I took a quick peek at my latches and don't see any adjustment. They are a ramped wire latch, if that makes any sense. I have no wiggle on either the door or the latch knobs. I'm glad this may have a happy ending!

Chan
 
Yep that's the kind of latches I have too. So you just use a high temp silicone like the RTV stuff? It's amazing that the safety features are that sensitive....but I guess it's a good thing all in all.
 
Yup, that door doesn't get hot at all but I would still use the high temp RTV. The place where you buy the gasket should have the adhesive. When I replaced the door gasket on mine, I bought a small tube of 500 degree RTV for five bucks. I used a knife to cut behind the gasket then pulled the gasket off and used my gasket scraper to remove the old adhesive. Looking at my gasket on the lower door, I'm willing to bet it will pull right off.


Chan
 
Glad you got it burning good. No pellet stove should need the pot dumped daily. When my buddy got his, and I seen that, we went to work getting more air. He ended up plugging the top row of holes. But plugging the airwash is making the pot receive more air..

Its gonna be a burning a$$ little stove now. As long as your ash is grey (be it dark (o.k.) or light grey (better) your doing good. When you start to get into the black zone, you know you need more air. Magnum making the Higher CFM combustion blower and also the things posted on there website, state that they knew there was an airflow problem with them.. Get them a little more air and they are an awesome stove. But as is from the factory (pellet build-up and black sooty ash) they are a sub par stove at best.

Congratulations on your "New Stove" . What a difference that air makes!!
 
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