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Mama Bear Firebricks

Post in 'Fisher Stove Information, Parts, History and More' started by Todd67, Jul 25, 2012.

  1. Todd67

    Todd67 New Member

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    Just picked up a Mama for my garage. It needs new firebricks, so I was wondering if anyone had a brick layout diagram like the one posted for the Baby, and in what order they get put inside the stove so they fit properly, as well as the sizes to cut them. Thanks.

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  2. coaly

    coaly Fisher Moderator Staff Member

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    The pictures of the original drawing below (1977) shows 8 additional (letter A size) for an upper row of bricks on the sides. (shown at top and bottom of page, with one brick sideways towards the front where stove top is lower) Most stoves don't have this upper row. Overfiring will show signs of extreme heat by discoloring paint in this area, but under normal operation they are not required.

    These are 1 1/4" thick X 4 1/2" X 9" white firebricks;

    ............................ bricks required ..................................................
    A 4 1/2 X 9 ...................18 ( 26 total with upper course )
    E 4 1/2 X 3 7/8 .............. 5
    F 9 X 2 7/8 .................... 3
    G 2 7/8 X 3 7/8 .............. 1
    H 9 X 1 7/8 .................... 1

    Mama Bear Brick Layout.JPG Mama Bear Brick Layout 2.JPG
  3. coaly

    coaly Fisher Moderator Staff Member

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    Installation order is normally;
    (slipping top under brick retainer - slide tight together)
    Across back first
    Sides; working rear to front
    Fill in bottom; working rear to front (I stagger the whole and cut brick in each row)

    Make sure it is perfectly clean inside, pushing the bottoms down is sometimes snug as it pushes the side bricks outward against the sides tight.
  4. Todd67

    Todd67 New Member

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    Thanks for the info and the installation tips. This stove will be a winter project that we work on as time allows, but it might wait until after the holidays. It doesn't have much rust on it since it was used last winter to heat a house. My wife has already coated it with PB blaster that will stay on the stove until we get around to restoring it. It has the chrome ball feet on it and the Baxter draft caps like my Baby, except these appear to be aluminum. Can't wait to get her fired up!

    009 (640x480).jpg
  5. coaly

    coaly Fisher Moderator Staff Member

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    I found by accident that steel with light surface rust like that loosens right up when soaked a while with PB, then a little buffing with green Scotch Brite soaked with it cleans it right up. I wipe it down with mineral spirits, then laquer thinner before paint and haven't had a problem.

    Most draft caps are aluminum. Some older ones were cast iron, and some have solid brass caps.
    The 3 styles offered in a 1980 brochure were;
    1.) "The Classic Look" which was a stove like yours with caps painted black, then the edges polished to match a nickel plated spring.

    2.) "The Contemporary Look" which was a plated arched top door with the same painted caps, with polished edges.

    3.) "A Touch of Brass" which was a brass black painted cap with polished edges and brass plated spring handles.
  6. MattMoore

    MattMoore New Member

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    Coaly
    I took those down and cut the E, F, G, and H down to size and demensions. From what gather I should put the back wall first then fill in the sides then the bottom. Unfortunately that way makes the F not fit on either side. Did I do it wrong or was my math wrong. While the picture has the bottom layer as A and E all the way down I've seen some pictures of the A and E not on the same side but being with A and E flipping sides all the way to the front. I am new at this and don't really know what I am doing.
  7. coaly

    coaly Fisher Moderator Staff Member

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    Make sure your full size bricks are 4 1/2 X 9 inches................. AND you have two draft caps on the front, not one making it a Baby Bear;

    The brick dimensions E,F,G,H are for the first style box with angle iron corners and flat top doors. No tags, but model I and II. The drawings shown in post #2 above show the bricks in-line, not staggered. (flipping sides) It doesn't matter if they are staggered or inline. It just prevents the straight crack between bricks. That drawing was before the brick layout was in the first manual.

    Page 9 in the VI manual from 1978 shows the same layout and is pictured with the same letter designations for brick sizes. (you may or may not have the second brick course)

    upload_2014-11-14_8-57-9.png
    The Mama Bear drawing in the 1980 VI manual (bent corners, arched top door) shows them staggered on page 12. That is a later stove, but the bricks are the same size. (It also shows a second course you may or may not have) The letter designations used are B,C,D,E but are the same size cuts.
    upload_2014-11-14_9-13-5.png

    Yes, the back goes in first, 3 full bricks should fit across the back and need one more 1 7/8 to complete the back. Then fill in down the sides with full bricks (5) that should leave you needing 2 7/8 to complete the sides to the front wall. It can be a snug fit and can't have any ash between them at all. Lay in the bottom starting at the back, and this pushes the side bricks tight to the sides holding them in place. That should leave you with the same space at the front as you had on the sides. About 3 inches for the 2 7/8" pieces.

    If the back fit with 3 full bricks and one cut 1 7/8 wide, your stove width is normal, and the bottom should fit across the stove correctly.

    If you don't have enough room in the front for the 2 7/8 piece, your stove length must not be the normal size. How much room are you left with to fill in when the bricks are pushed tight??
    The sides and bottom will come out the same since they are both pushed back against the back bricks.

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