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Mama Bear Firebricks

Post in 'Fisher Stove Information, Parts, History and More' started by Todd67, Jul 25, 2012.

  1. Todd67

    Todd67 New Member

    Joined:
    Jun 25, 2012
    Messages:
    55
    Loc:
    Carthage NY
    Just picked up a Mama for my garage. It needs new firebricks, so I was wondering if anyone had a brick layout diagram like the one posted for the Baby, and in what order they get put inside the stove so they fit properly, as well as the sizes to cut them. Thanks.

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  2. coaly

    coaly Fisher Moderator Staff Member

    Joined:
    Dec 22, 2007
    Messages:
    1,462
    Loc:
    NE PA
    The pictures of the original drawing below (1977) shows 8 additional (letter A size) for an upper row of bricks on the sides. (shown at top and bottom of page, with one brick sideways towards the front where stove top is lower) Most stoves don't have this upper row. Overfiring will show signs of extreme heat by discoloring paint in this area, but under normal operation they are not required.

    These are 1 1/4" thick X 4 1/2" X 9" white firebricks;

    ............................ bricks required ..................................................
    A 4 1/2 X 9 ...................18 ( 26 total with upper course )
    E 4 1/2 X 3 7/8 .............. 5
    F 9 X 2 7/8 .................... 3
    G 2 7/8 X 3 7/8 .............. 1
    H 9 X 1 7/8 .................... 1

    Mama Bear Brick Layout.JPG Mama Bear Brick Layout 2.JPG
  3. coaly

    coaly Fisher Moderator Staff Member

    Joined:
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    1,462
    Loc:
    NE PA
    Installation order is normally;
    (slipping top under brick retainer - slide tight together)
    Across back first
    Sides; working rear to front
    Fill in bottom; working rear to front (I stagger the whole and cut brick in each row)

    Make sure it is perfectly clean inside, pushing the bottoms down is sometimes snug as it pushes the side bricks outward against the sides tight.
  4. Todd67

    Todd67 New Member

    Joined:
    Jun 25, 2012
    Messages:
    55
    Loc:
    Carthage NY
    Thanks for the info and the installation tips. This stove will be a winter project that we work on as time allows, but it might wait until after the holidays. It doesn't have much rust on it since it was used last winter to heat a house. My wife has already coated it with PB blaster that will stay on the stove until we get around to restoring it. It has the chrome ball feet on it and the Baxter draft caps like my Baby, except these appear to be aluminum. Can't wait to get her fired up!

    009 (640x480).jpg
  5. coaly

    coaly Fisher Moderator Staff Member

    Joined:
    Dec 22, 2007
    Messages:
    1,462
    Loc:
    NE PA
    I found by accident that steel with light surface rust like that loosens right up when soaked a while with PB, then a little buffing with green Scotch Brite soaked with it cleans it right up. I wipe it down with mineral spirits, then laquer thinner before paint and haven't had a problem.

    Most draft caps are aluminum. Some older ones were cast iron, and some have solid brass caps.
    The 3 styles offered in a 1980 brochure were;
    1.) "The Classic Look" which was a stove like yours with caps painted black, then the edges polished to match a nickel plated spring.

    2.) "The Contemporary Look" which was a plated arched top door with the same painted caps, with polished edges.

    3.) "A Touch of Brass" which was a brass black painted cap with polished edges and brass plated spring handles.

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