Man Cave Heater has arrived
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madison said:
Thanks for the pics, Madison.
That piece looks o.k. I can't really see a weld up inside the firebox, though. I can see one all the way across and on the sides when the door is opened up, but on the inside I can't see up in there. I put my fingertips up around the piece, from the inside, and it definitely feels connected to the stove...
madison
Minister of Fire
Yea that is the only piece I can think of that is welded, and could be called an air deflector. And IF, big if, that is the piece in question, like begreen suggested, fire that puppy up.
Curious if you have had any contact with the retailer, and their response. It is still my opinion that the QC practices are a bit lame, if this were a clock radio or something that you could return easily, no big deal, but a 500 pound stove inside your home, it sure would be nice that they had all the bolts tighten, welds fixed that the QC department has identified as needing repaired....
Long time ago, while in college, I worked as a QC inspector, night shift, and the shop foreman would really put the pressure on to ignore the defects (desks , chairs and file cabinets) to increase the productivity. So I can see both sides of this "scene".
The other issue, while I rant, is that the retailer, who had nothing to do with the production or QC issues, is responsible for the repairs, and it comes out of their pocket up front, then they are reimbursed.
Curious if you have had any contact with the retailer, and their response. It is still my opinion that the QC practices are a bit lame, if this were a clock radio or something that you could return easily, no big deal, but a 500 pound stove inside your home, it sure would be nice that they had all the bolts tighten, welds fixed that the QC department has identified as needing repaired....
Long time ago, while in college, I worked as a QC inspector, night shift, and the shop foreman would really put the pressure on to ignore the defects (desks , chairs and file cabinets) to increase the productivity. So I can see both sides of this "scene".
The other issue, while I rant, is that the retailer, who had nothing to do with the production or QC issues, is responsible for the repairs, and it comes out of their pocket up front, then they are reimbursed.
madison said:
I tried calling the retailer just to see if they had record of the whole "fix air deflector weld" message or at least to point me in the direction to looking for it myself, and they said they don't service the general public -- I have to go through the chimney co. that bought the stove from them for me.
So I will try to do that, I guess. The only problem is that the chimney co. did me a favor by getting the stove at their cost and even had their guys bring it down to the basement. They didn't make a dime off of it, so I hate to now call them and ask them to call the dealer and figure this all out. That's why i was hoping that it was an obvious weld to an obvious part in an obvious area that I could check!!
I'm still going to fire this puppy up, as soon as its piped in!!
madison
Minister of Fire
Ouch, understand the predicament. Did the chimney company get it from BAC in Hudson, NY? From what I understand, they are the main NE distributor. Amanda's shop next door to BAC may be of some help.
madison
Minister of Fire
Well... Stove was piped in this morning. Girlfriend and 14 month old were off to her mom's house for the day. Thought it was a perfect time for a break-in fire (or two!!) So I threw some kindling on top of some rolled up newspaper and I was off!!
First impressions/observations: (totally random -- in no particular order of importance or organization)
1) Didn't seem to draft as strong as my Jotul 602 did. When i lit the paper today, some smoke seemed to come out at me, at first. That never happened before.
2) The glass stayed perfectly clean. That absolutely surprised me.
3) Absolutely beautiful to watch. The flames sort of danced, whether the air was open or shut down some, flames just seemed to float. Could never see the flames with the Jotul, except for reloading, but they seemed to roar.
4) Fumes weren't too bad. Touched up the stove pipe with High Heat paint, so that with the combination of the stove itself, cured. Not as bad as I thought. Second fire, which was hotter, smelled worse than the first. Thought it would get better with each fire...
5) Going to take me a bit to get used to using this stove and how it works. With the 602, I would start right off with paper, kindling and two real small splits. When that got going I would throw two regular splits in and then start shutting the air down 5 min from that point. With this stove (with the second break-in fire) I put 3 small splits in after the kinding was going good (300* stove top temp) and let that go until it reached about 350^. Shut the air down about 1/2 way and then all the way (at 450* -- I know, I know, probably too hot for a second break-in fire -- I'm new!!) The secondaries actually lit at one point (which was cool as hell) but after they went out, so did the fire itself. Is that normal?
So this all taught me that I'm going to have to learn when to put regular sized splits in and when to start shutting the air down. (I'm actually not even sure if I'm supposed to mess with the air with break-in fires or if i should just leave it open and let the fire run its course). With the 602, it seemed that the only air adjustments were from full, to half, to just about closed. I need to get into some kind of routine like that with this stove. Any general guidelines or advice?
I'll post pics during my third break-in fire!!
First impressions/observations: (totally random -- in no particular order of importance or organization)
1) Didn't seem to draft as strong as my Jotul 602 did. When i lit the paper today, some smoke seemed to come out at me, at first. That never happened before.
2) The glass stayed perfectly clean. That absolutely surprised me.
3) Absolutely beautiful to watch. The flames sort of danced, whether the air was open or shut down some, flames just seemed to float. Could never see the flames with the Jotul, except for reloading, but they seemed to roar.
4) Fumes weren't too bad. Touched up the stove pipe with High Heat paint, so that with the combination of the stove itself, cured. Not as bad as I thought. Second fire, which was hotter, smelled worse than the first. Thought it would get better with each fire...
5) Going to take me a bit to get used to using this stove and how it works. With the 602, I would start right off with paper, kindling and two real small splits. When that got going I would throw two regular splits in and then start shutting the air down 5 min from that point. With this stove (with the second break-in fire) I put 3 small splits in after the kinding was going good (300* stove top temp) and let that go until it reached about 350^. Shut the air down about 1/2 way and then all the way (at 450* -- I know, I know, probably too hot for a second break-in fire -- I'm new!!) The secondaries actually lit at one point (which was cool as hell) but after they went out, so did the fire itself. Is that normal?
So this all taught me that I'm going to have to learn when to put regular sized splits in and when to start shutting the air down. (I'm actually not even sure if I'm supposed to mess with the air with break-in fires or if i should just leave it open and let the fire run its course). With the 602, it seemed that the only air adjustments were from full, to half, to just about closed. I need to get into some kind of routine like that with this stove. Any general guidelines or advice?
I'll post pics during my third break-in fire!!
madison
Minister of Fire
Sorta marginal weather for wood burning, not totally surprised that the draft was not that great with the outdoor temps in the upper 60's...
but once the chimney is warmed up, and it is below freezing you may be able to close it off, but, at least you realize that you close the air down in stages is what seems to work best with these model stoves. you'll figure it out.
but once the chimney is warmed up, and it is below freezing you may be able to close it off, but, at least you realize that you close the air down in stages is what seems to work best with these model stoves. you'll figure it out.
The stove sounds like it is doing it's job well. The stove burns totally differently than the box styled 602. That stove is somewhat like a forge, blowing flames down the length of the splits. You can emulated this somewhat by starting the fire with the bottom splits oriented N/S with about 3" between them. Build your kindling/newspaper balls fire between the splits. Leave the door ajar until the draft is good and the side splits are burning well. You will have a lot more fuel in this firebox than in the 602, but the air control will usually be a similar 3 stage process. Wide open, half-way, and all the way closed, as the fire progresses.
Draft will improve dramatically with cooler temps. The stove does not need to be babied, heat it up to at least 5-600 stove top temp the next fire.
Draft will improve dramatically with cooler temps. The stove does not need to be babied, heat it up to at least 5-600 stove top temp the next fire.
Will do! For the third break-in fire my plan was to add 3 regular sized splits.
So what about the secondaries. I've read about these for like 3 years here on the board, and finally experienced them. They happened when I shut the air down all the way. But when the secondaries went out, that was it, no other flame. Is that what will happen all of the time? Then just wait for the stove temp to come down to like 3-350* before reloading her up?
So what about the secondaries. I've read about these for like 3 years here on the board, and finally experienced them. They happened when I shut the air down all the way. But when the secondaries went out, that was it, no other flame. Is that what will happen all of the time? Then just wait for the stove temp to come down to like 3-350* before reloading her up?
As far as secondaries go, every stove is different. 99% of the time, if I close the primary air completely in my Endeavor, I get 5 minutes of secondaries. Then they go out, and there is no visible flame. I can go outside at this point, and I have clearly visible smoke from the stack. I've found that in my stove, I have to have the primary open about 1/4" (give or take a little) to maintain a clean burn. This happens regardless of the species (pine or oak) and regardless of the moisture content (I've tried it with pine reading as low as 12-13%). My air control rod has a spring on the handle, and I've learned to use it along with the ash lip as a guide on where to reach the "sweet spot" for my stove. I wish it were as simple as closing it all the way. Then no tweaking or "measuring" would be involved.
Just play around with yours, monitor the burn, monitor your emissions, and you'll find your stove's "sweet spot". Hopefully, for you, that will be "fully closed". You picked a helluva sweet lookin' stove!
Just play around with yours, monitor the burn, monitor your emissions, and you'll find your stove's "sweet spot". Hopefully, for you, that will be "fully closed". You picked a helluva sweet lookin' stove!
madison
Minister of Fire
raiderfan said:
Essentially , yes. If you put some grateful dead tunes on, the secondaries will be much more pronounced. Seriously, as pagey stated, finding the sweet spot takes time and is affected by the wood and weather.
Shutting it down abruptly and completely when the wood is blazing will accentuate the secondaries, but may not be the best way to prolong the show.
madison said:
Yeah, this is definitely going to take some time for me, that's for sure!! Going to stick with trying to adjust the air in 3 steps, Full Open - 1/2 Way - Full Shut, as BeGreen mentioned. Just have to find the right stove top temps to do each of these adjustments at, as a guide. Thanks guys!
Here's some pics as promised. This is my fourth, and final, break in fire. Just trying to get the smell out. Getting better. Also getting familiar of the workings of the stove. These pics are after a 4 split load, soon after start up. Stove top temp was 550 at the time of pic, air shut down all the way. Now settled right in at 600-625ish. Have to say that I LOVE THIS THING!!
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BeGreen said:
In general, pretty good. It doesn't seem to get "cold" down here (below 60*) until sometime in late November. But once it does get cold down here, it stays cold until mid April!!
The Cave started the night at 63*, and now 2 hrs into the fire, its at 73*. Even better, I opened my basement door, leading to the dining room upstairs (where the thermostat is) and noticed that the thermostat is two degrees higher than what I have it set at. That's a welcome feature
Did just notice that the stove top went up a bit to 650. Hoping it settles in there, as any higher I'll get a tad nervous
It'll be fine, even at 750. By mid-winter you will be taking it up to 700 pretty regularly until you have a chance to get some insulation on those walls.
BeGreen said:
Well, that's good to know, because I was wondering what would happen if I loaded it with, say 5 splits instead of the four I did tonight! I'll put more wood in it on reloads in the winter, that's for sure.
From behind the view where the pic was taken of the stove are sheetrocked and insulated walls. But the area to the left and behind the stove are my stone foundation. That is whats new this year for the room. Previous years, with the 602, it was one big open space!!
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