I tried to find out some info about mauls and someone did'nt agree with my methods. So just curious... what are some good mauls out there now? Thanx Jeff
neumsky said:I tried to find out some info about mauls and someone did'nt agree with my methods. So just curious... what are some good mauls out there now? Thanx Jeff
quads said:From an earlier thread:
I can't say anything about Fiskars, I have never had the opportunity to swing one, but I can give you a couple words of wisdom about mauls.
For one thing, an 8# maul is just too heavy for me, and by many of the comments from people hating their 8# maul and replacing it with the lighter Fiskars, I'm assuming that I am not the only one that thinks so. 6# maul is just the right weight for me.
The second thing is that all the modern mauls I have seen have a shape that is too 'blunt'. In the 'old days' the mauls were shaped properly. I'm not talking about the cutting edge itself, I have found that it doesn't matter if it's dull and I actually prefer it dull because it never gets stuck in the rounds that way. When sharpened, it sticks a lot. I am talking about the shape of the nose itself. Most of them, and the 8# are even worse about this than a 6#, have a sort of 'flare' right after the cutting edge and often a couple 'ribs' running up the sides. A lot of the time, on the first swing the maul goes THUD and does not split anything. It might crack it on the first swing, but it always takes more swings to actually split it. My old antique maul almost always splits on the first swing. So I did an experiment with a modern maul. I found a 6# Truper maul at Tractor Supply that had close to the same shape as the antique maul, but yet it had that blunt flare. Eventually I took the grinder to it and a file and I shaped it like the old maul. Now it works so well as to almost rival the splitting ability of the antique!
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