minimum flue length: im in trouble

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oilstinks

Minister of Fire
Jan 25, 2008
588
western NC
Here is the deal. I cannot get a min length of 14 foot. My pre fab sheet metal system wont hold that much weight i believe. that will put that square sheet metal support holding 10 ft of insulated pipe. I might get 10 to 11 ft. I reall dont have anyway to anchor cable supports to my roof. Do i need to abandon this whole wood burning project all together? Another test burn today showed the 13nc will not draw with 4 ftof pipe with door closed. I need some help. If you are going to be a smart donkey to me please do not even post:keep it to yourself. I dont want to hear it and my nerves cant take it right now. I need solutions not how much smarter or how much more common sense you have than i do. im on a knife's edge right now.For all other, your help will be greatly appreciated.


thanx
josh
 
oilstinks said:
Here is the deal. I cannot get a min length of 14 foot. My pre fab sheet metal system wont hold that much weight i believe. that will put that square sheet metal support holding 10 ft of insulated pipe. I might get 10 to 11 ft. I reall dont have anyway to anchor cable supports to my roof. Do i need to abandon this whole wood burning project all together? Another test burn today showed the 13nc will not draw with 4 ftof pipe with door closed. I need some help. If you are going to be a smart donkey to me please do not even post:keep it to yourself. I dont want to hear it and my nerves cant take it right now. I need solutions not how much smarter or how much more common sense you have than i do. im on a knife's edge right now.For all other, your help will be greatly appreciated.


thanx
josh


I can tell you what I did to get some support from the side. I had a 24' strait run of insulated and I was concerned that the base plate wouldn't take the weight.


What I did is half way up I put bracing. Here is how I did it.
I took one of the insulated chimney pipe connectors, They sold them at Lowe's right with the chimney stuff. They are a metal band that fits around the pipe. I drilled holes in the band then used all thread and turn buckles as strapping to hold it up and in place. It works real well with minimal fabrication. They sold all the stuff at Lowe's

You might be able to support it this way? I stinks when a project magnifies it's self.
 
post a picture of your set-up, will help generate more suggestions to fixing your quandry. For the life of me I cant figure out why you only have 4 ft.
 
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this is oilstinks wifewhen i got home and checked out the request for pix it was getting dark so they pix aren't great anyway. i took pix of inside and outside of the setup (setup in progress) we live in a trailer and built on an additon for the woodstove but are still finishing up on the room before installation of the stove. sorry some of the pix r so big I haven't played around with photobucket enough to resize pix
 
My neighbor has his wood stove in a box type deal on the side of his house. He then put duct work up to a window and uses 2 box fans to blow heat in from the box that the wood stove is in outside. I never would have believed this setup if I hadn't seen it with my own two eyes. His wood stove vent pipe is by no means taller than your 10 foot pipe. Then again I don't know what type of wood stove he has inside that box of his....I can guarentee that its not a new one thats for sure!

That being said there has got to be someway for you guys to get your set up to work. I have also seen many other wood stoves set up in a similiar fashion to yours...though I'm not sure how they did it exactly....
 
What's holding the ceiling box up now, just the metal roofing ?
Seems to me you could frame in amongst the rafters/joists to mount a roof support. Also, the stack support "arms" they sell maybe aren't intended for a low pitch but they extend pretty long and, I suspect, would give you enough lateral stability. You could even use 2 and have 4 legs going down to the roof ?
 
I'm no expert but if I were you I would go ahead and install the stove and try it with the 10' chimney. I recently installed my Hearthstone Craftsbury and it works fine with my 10' chimney (book calls for 13 0r 14 feet). Mine is vented out the back and has a short horizontal run. Yours appears to go straight up through the roof so that is positive. The only thing I've noticed with mine is that I have to leave the door cracked open or ash pan door open on start-up. Once it gets going good it draws fine.
 
Hello Oilstinks, you also count the pipe going to the connection box from the stove. I can't see why your support box won't take more chimney pipe. You should be able to easy add 4' more and be just over the support needed height. Also it will help when it get colder out. On my 13 I found that the OAK makes a big difference on the way it draws. We have a old house but have it sealed up good. So you might try going with outside air also to see if it helps.
Don
 
Yes, when you say only 10 feet of chimney, are you counting what goes from the support box to your stove too? Because that counts too. I only have 10 feet of double wall chimney for my attic to roof, plus the stove pipe inside the living room.

I did my first break-in fire last night and it drafted well.
 
yes i am counting from stove. That is a 3ft stick you see in pics. The support is framed in with 16 3/4 in screws holding the metal box. From the stove now i will have 7 to 8 ft with out adding. I assum it will draw beter with outside air hook up. I dont yet have 10ft. Single wall was suggested at work tonight but i think ill shy away from that since i live in this one. Who knows it may draw with 7 to 8. Guess there is only one way to find out huh.
 
i only have 7' of all fuel pipe and it about 4' above the roof and it's a flat roof. From the stove to the all fuel have the double wall smoke pipe and it drafts good.
 
a solid fuel stove should NEVER have a forced draft put onto it, draft inducers are for fossil fuel burners. What does the mfg of the chimney system say for how much the ceiling box will hold? Most systems are made to hold 20 plus feet. Do not use cables, use the mfg made roof brace kit.
Looking at the pics I see no reason that chimney can't be eight ft tall.
 
humpin iron said:
a solid fuel stove should NEVER have a forced draft put onto it, draft inducers are for fossil fuel burners.
Now you are confusing me. Coal is a fossil fuel and it is solid. Anyway if you follow the link it says for use with gas, wood, coal, pellets, corn, and other solid fuel stoves.
 
Oil don't abandon ship...who knows perhaps the stove will operate correctly with the length you already have. Or maybe it's possible to relocate the stove so the pipe come out by the peak...that has to give you your magic number.
 
On my corrugated roof at the office the gas furnace flue had to be supported with guy wires due to high wind location and they used the existing roof fasteners to anchor the stay wires for the flue chimney. If it holds the roof down it will anchor a guy wire.

My neighbor has a wood stove in his mobil home and his chimney is no taller than yours.

Once you get a fire going you can close the door again ?
 
coal is a fossil fuel, I meant oil and gas. Some solid fuel furnaces have induction air. A wood stove should not have a draft inducer. And yes people use cables to hold chimneys, you should use a brace kit made by the chimney mfg
 
oilstinks

If you havent already considered it, and you find you are having a draft problem, think about piping in an Outdoor Air Kit (OAK). Code issues aside as far as mobile homes, it may help with any draft problems you have. I don't have one, and don't want to start another OAK discussion here, but it may help if you find you have a draft issue.

I think that most of the mounts for these flues can handle the amount of chimney you need, so long as the structure it is installed into can support the mount. What brand of chimney is it? I may be able to look up the amount of support it can handle for you if it would help. ( I see now that someone asked this already)

Keep working at it - the answer is here somewhere.
 
Did you ever get this resolved? My flat roof only had a 3' section of chimney when I bought it for a total height from flue collar to top of about 8'. I added a bunch more and used a brace as pictured. These are not "wires" but a rigid brace and sold by Selkirk (I use Selkirk pipe). The ceiling support for these systems is more than adequate to support this much chimney - if I had a gable roof, it would be the same system with no additional vertical support. My last house had something like 12' of pre-fab chmney over it. If you have some other brnad of ceiling support, you might want to go with Selkirk/Metalbestos with a brace like I have - it lag bolts right through the metal roof (or shingles) into the rafters - it won't leak once you seal it with silicone or some other crap. I don't think all is lost, but you might have to change out the ceiling support. Good luck.
 

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I'd try it with the 10' of pipe. It may not be ideal and may be sluggish in mild season burning, but there's nothing to be lost by trying it. It's a straight up pipe from what I can see, so it may work ok. If not, I don't see any reason why another 3ft couldn't be added. A standard roof brace or guy wiring looks possible here.
 
I think there's a little confusion in the OP. If I understand it correctly he tried the stove outside with just a length of 4 ft pipe. The in-the-house installation will have a total of 10-11' of pipe as it stands now. Is that correct oilstinks?

If necessary, adding another 3 ft will not be that big a deal. Certainly not a showstopper.
 
about 8ft as it stnds now.
 
poop :) (had to say that.) 8 feet in the house and about 2 outside or 8 ft total?
 
about 8 ft total
 
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