So I have the PB105 up and running. I'm not real happy with the quality of service from my dealer but that's another thread. My question is this. The cleaning rod closes to the hopper is very hard to move.I called the store and they said that is normal. I feel it's bent and should be replaced. Is anyone else have this problem of that rod being very hard to move? It would be nice if I could even get them to come look at it but as of yet I can't.
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I installed a pb 105 this past winter. on my boiler the cleaning rod furthest from the hopper can be hard to move if the boiler is doing a lot of idling due to low heat demand. Once the fire burns hot for a while all the rods seem to move fine. And yes, when they get stuck half way in they seem bent.
SmokeEater
Feeling the Heat
I've only seen the dealer when I gave him the cash for the boiler! Anyway, like katman, the rod near the combustion fan is hard to move whether cold or hot. I never called because I can see no fix for that one. I leave the rod out a couple of inches and use a channel lock set of pliers to help me move it and then I don't push it all the way in when I'm done.
Thanks guys looks like it always has to be one rod that's hard to move. 
If you two see this how did you do your over heat by pass loop? We have mine set up so that when the over heat calls it runs the first floor loop (the biggest one) My dealer says this is wrong but it is one of the ways the book shows to install. So far it has worked like a champ. We could see no reason for the boiler to circulate all the time like he would have us do. So we hooked it up to come on and dump back into the loop short if it is to cold and on over heat run the whole loop.
If you two see this how did you do your over heat by pass loop? We have mine set up so that when the over heat calls it runs the first floor loop (the biggest one) My dealer says this is wrong but it is one of the ways the book shows to install. So far it has worked like a champ. We could see no reason for the boiler to circulate all the time like he would have us do. So we hooked it up to come on and dump back into the loop short if it is to cold and on over heat run the whole loop.
SmokeEater
Feeling the Heat
Thanks guys looks like it always has to be one rod that's hard to move.
If you two see this how did you do your over heat by pass loop? We have mine set up so that when the over heat calls it runs the first floor loop (the biggest one) My dealer says this is wrong but it is one of the ways the book shows to install. So far it has worked like a champ. We could see no reason for the boiler to circulate all the time like he would have us do. So we hooked it up to come on and dump back into the loop short if it is to cold and on over heat run the whole loop.
I have a power off NO zone valve on a 6 foot fin tube more than 24" above the boiler, so if the power fails the zone valve opens and dumps the heat into the fin tube. I did not connect the internal wiring to dump heat if the boiler goes into overheat because I have a delta-T pump on the boiler and it constantly pumps heat into a 100 gallon Triangle Tube IWH which can absorb that extra heat if the power remains on. Then have a future plan to connect a standby emergency battery and DC/AC full sign wave inverter up to back up power loss.
I haven't installed the overheat dump yet but will probably do so before the start of the next heating season. I like SmokeEater's approach--using some fin tube.
dumaspup, I have the same issue with the rod closest to the chimney. I find that wiping the rod with a little WD-40 on a soft cloth allows it to slide fine. The longer time goes by between using the rods, the harder it is to pull out. Once I get it pulled out partially, then I grab the rod with the cloth to pull it out all the way and wipe it down.
Thanks guys looks like it always has to be one rod that's hard to move.
If you two see this how did you do your over heat by pass loop? We have mine set up so that when the over heat calls it runs the first floor loop (the biggest one) My dealer says this is wrong but it is one of the ways the book shows to install. So far it has worked like a champ. We could see no reason for the boiler to circulate all the time like he would have us do. So we hooked it up to come on and dump back into the loop short if it is to cold and on over heat run the whole loop.
dumaspup, This is the way I setup my boiler as well and it has worked fine for the last 4 years. I set my boiler to a max of 180* so it rarely needs to dump anyway. My boiler only circulates water when the thermostat calls for heat just the way a conventional oil boiler does. I don't think that your dealer has a clue as to how a boiler should work. They typically sell stoves and many stove owners will operate their stoves in High/low setting mode.
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