My Stihl 025 confusing me.

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Lcback

Feeling the Heat
Feb 21, 2016
364
Pennsylvania
So if you have paid attention to my posts you know I'm pretty new to small engines. And being a young family most of my stuff is hand-me-downs. So as great as that is it certainly has its share of frustration.
To my point. My old stihl 025 ( the old ms250) locked up on me this week. I put a new chain on and was ripping through a nice cherry blow down when it just seized.

Today I tore into it. But I didn't get far. I took the spark plug out, then the pull string. The fly wheel wasn't turning by hand. I put a socket on the flywheel hoping to break that bolt loose without a plug. Sure enough the engine started moving. Felt stiff at first, but it loosened up fast. I put everything back on and pulled it fired on the third pull like usual. It runs and screams like there was no problem. Now I haven't put the bar and chain on to try cutting more yet. Any ideas what's up? Should I be ordering a new engine anyway? My dad seems to think maybe with these pre-measured 50:1 oils from stihl I May have used more then one gallon of gas. It is a 1.3 gallon can so I guess it's possible.

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Something was jammed inside the clutch maybe? I'd take the clutch cover off and make sure nothing is rattling around in there.

If the engine siezed I would not expect everything to be fine when you got back.

Wouldn't hurt to start giving it a little more oil, though.
 
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When you say 'screams', what do you mean? Screaming is a term applied to a sound that means too lean, and will overheat, and eventually seize. Maybe it seized and released. Richen it up to proper tune and maybe you will get by.
Is the 250 a clamshell engine? if so, you have nothing to lose by running it, can't replace cylinder anyway without replacing engine.
 
Is the safety brake working properly? Whats the drive sprocket look like? Did you pull it and check the roller cage bearing? Did you take a close look at the clutch assembly?One other thing...I have seen the bar roller tip seize and that will shut a saw down...I don't think you screwed up the mix ratio.
 
How does the compression feel? If you lift the saw off the ground by the starter handle, how long does it take to drop to the end of the rope?

I would pull the muffler and inspect the piston for scoring. Post a picture of the side of the piston if you're not sure. I would also remove the clutch cover and starter housing so you can get your hands on both ends of the crankshaft, and take out the spark plug so compression doesn't affect anything. Rotate the flywheel, which should turn easily and smoothly, without a trace of grittiness. Try to wiggle the ends of the crankshaft around. Neither should have any detectable play in any direction. If all this checks out, i.e. no scoring, resistance, rough action or bearing play, then the motor itself is probably okay.
 
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Pull the muffler and look at the piston through the exhaust port. As long as it's not scored up you should be good to go.


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So the compression feels fine. I didn't time it but I could if that would be meaning full information. I looked at the piston and didn't see anything. So I went into the woods and cut about 10 cuts through a 18" cherry, and some small stuff that tree took down with it. The saw ran like a champ.
Does anyone have an opinion on the aftermarket Chinese engines for these things? Looking at $50 with shipping to have a whole engine in hand. I have a bit of cash from the tax refund I was thinking about ordering one along with some carbs and filters just to have it on hand and keep this thing running no matter what. I called a dealer and they said an engine would be $280 to pricey for me to just have on hand.

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Why do you need a engine then if it checks out? If its not scored don't sweat it and run it. Those 250s are extremely durable. I still think your original issue was other than the engine.
 
Why do you need a engine then if it checks out? If its not scored don't sweat it and run it. Those 250s are extremely durable. I still think your original issue was other than the engine.
Alright, I guess coming from a manufacturing background where down time is death, I just find piece of mind in having spare parts around. I guess there is a good chance something was jammed in the flywheel or some such.

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I speak from experience regarding these 250s. I ran a pair of them HARD for 6-7 years selling firewood. The only thing I ever encountered with them was the things I mentioned before.They were very hardy and durable saws.They were rated as homeowner saws but I am here to tell you they hold up under hard use!
 
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If you need cutting insurance, maybe you should get a backup saw. The 250 is mediumish at 45cc, so you could either get a big felling/bucking saw or a little limbing saw to round out your arsenal. (Or you could take $25 to Craigslist and buy the first Homelite that runs and call it a day.)

I personally enjoy having a big saw and a little saw. Not can they back each other up in case of mechanical problems, but it's nice to have a small light saw for some stuff, and a big powerful stuff for other stuff. (Actually, if my big Dolmar went down, I don't know that I'd actually go dropping and bucking big oak with my little Echo, but in theory I COULD. ;) )
 
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True enough Jetsam...I run 5 saws and I am never left with out saw power..took me awhile to get where I am but I have everything covered now.2 saws for the avg. cutter would be perfect.
 
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True enough Jetsam...I run 5 saws and I am never left with out saw power..took me awhile to get where I am but I have everything covered now.2 saws for the avg. cutter would be perfect.

That would make by head spin. I already have a hard enough time telling bar and chain rail gauges apart with two saws bonking around. Maybe I'll start engraving them...
 
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That would make by head spin. I already have a hard enough time telling bar and chain rain gauges apart with two saws bonking around. Maybe I'll start engravjng them...
Not a problem...I converted the small saws for the very reason you mentioned...I run 3/8 full chisel 50 gauge on everything.
 
Not a problem...I converted the small saws for the very reason you mentioned...I run 3/8 full chisel 50 gauge on everything.

Ooh, that's a good idea, especially if you do it before your bar/chain collection gets too big.

Why do you do full chisel? I run yellow semichisel on everything, because I read it takes less sharpening than full chisel and cuts about the same with modern chains.
 
Ooh, that's a good idea, especially if you do it before your bar/chain collection gets too big.

Why do you do full chisel? I run yellow semichisel on everything, because I read it takes less sharpening than full chisel and cuts about the same with modern chains.
I find it cuts faster in my experience and I am usually cutting fresh tree tops from logging operations and I am all about production and I do not get into much "dirty" wood so its a good choice for what I do.
 
True enough Jetsam...I run 5 saws and I am never left with out saw power..took me awhile to get where I am but I have everything covered now.2 saws for the avg. cutter would be perfect.

I have just over 200 acres of hardwood growth to maintain between my land and my families land and have 7 saws currently running and 2 more in boxes of parts needing to be rebuilt, but oddly only use , generally speaking , 2 saws most of the time.

I could get by with one saw if I had to.

I've still got my old 031 that's been in my family a very long time I call it my permanent dust collector and garage queen. Runs like a champ. I think I've
Still got 10 year old pre mix in the thing lol

I'm just a saw geek I guess

To the OP most any saw, even a poulan wild thing, if well maintained, with a sharp chain, will put wood in the truck. Keep your saw running well, keep a sharp chain on it, and it will cut wood.
 
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I would really like to get a real light saw, or a pro model. But the cost just seems like a waist. The 025 works well enough with a sharp chain it amazes me what It can cut through fast. Anything to big for it I can borrow my dad's 70cc PRO McCullough from the 90's.
I just need to keep this bad boy running. Really I think my money would be best spent on a chain sharpener.

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Woodhog I like my saws to! I am not getting any younger and each saw serves a purpose..the smaller saws are what I first use when I tear into a big tree top....as the wood gets bigger I grab a bigger saw...and so on. I would love to have 200 acres of my own...you are a lucky man!
 
I would really like to get a real light saw, or a pro model. But the cost just seems like a waist. The 025 works well enough with a sharp chain it amazes me what It can cut through fast. Anything to big for it I can borrow my dad's 70cc PRO McCullough from the 90's.
I just need to keep this bad boy running. Really I think my money would be best spent on a chain sharpener.

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Stihl makes a outstanding bench mount MANUAL sharpener.
 
Stihl makes a outstanding bench mount MANUAL sharpener.
Thanks for the suggestion, I'll be looking into them soon. Not sure if I should go electric or not. I have seen a lot of suggestions for the timberwolf. But it seems it would take a long time to pay for itself at $150. Right now I get my chains sharpened for $5 each. Only pain is driving out of my way twice.

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Thanks for the suggestion, I'll be looking into them soon. Not sure if I should go electric or not. I have seen a lot of suggestions for the timberwolf. But it seems it would take a long time to pay for itself at $150. Right now I get my chains sharpened for $5 each. Only pain is driving out of my way twice.

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If your only keep a few chains around there really is no need to go electric. It doesn't take long to hand file a few 16 in chains and they will be sharper as well and last longer and BTW the Stihl manual sharpener has the same settings as a electric sharpener.