need a heater to heat a warming room to heat drums of product

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adamant

Member
Sep 30, 2007
58
I would suggest going with radiant style heater under the product. Heat the product not the air. A kickspace heater will work but will use electric power and will be more prone to stratification.
 
i need to heat 2 drums of product for a process. the product needs a temp of 110 deg. the heating room is 6'x6'x8' high. i am looking to heat this with my boiler.

i am looking for a small heat reasonably priced exchanger .

i was thinking something like this but a small hanging unit

http://www.globalindustrial.com/p/h...loor/embassy-hav-48-3-compact-hydronic-heater
why dont you just order a couple of electric band barrel heaters from W.WGrainger???????????????????????????????????????
www.grainger.com



I dont see much sense in what your doing as you need to heat the
product not the air around it.

The band heaters heat the barrel and then the barrel heats the material in the
barrels.

It would be simpler to install a pair of 30 amp explosion proof outlets wired to two circuit breakers in an electrical panel box near the heating room using 50 amp extension cords to connect the heating bands to the power supply.

The band heaters have thermostats to control the temperature of the heating bands
so thats nothing to worry about as far as overheating the product.

Buy them from WWGrainger and most likely you will be able to have an american made product.
 
why dont you just order a couple of electric band barrel heaters from W.WGrainger???????????????????????????????????????
www.grainger.com



I dont see much sense in what your doing as you need to heat the
product not the air around it.

The band heaters heat the barrel and then the barrel heats the material in the
barrels.

It would be simpler to install a pair of 30 amp explosion proof outlets wired to two circuit breakers in an electrical panel box near the heating room using 50 amp extension cords to connect the heating bands to the power supply.

The band heaters have thermostats to control the temperature of the heating bands
so thats nothing to worry about as far as overheating the product.

Buy them from WWGrainger and most likely you will be able to have an american made product.
Those heaters require electricity which has a continuous use cost . I already have boiler lines in the shop. My only expense would be a small heater that we run off my Boiler.
 
Here's the issue..........
In order to get the barrels/product up to 110* with indirect heating via air temp, you'll need to raise the temp in that room to at least 30-40* above that. At least if you want to heat the product in something less than a couple weeks time assuming it's liquid material in the barrels.

So here's the deal with using a forced air type heater for that application. A normal fan forced hydronic heater has an output based on 65* air temp with 180* water going through the coil. Given those parameters a fairly small heater will crank out 50,000 btu. If the incoming air temp rises however, the actual heat output drops rapidly. Normal water to air temp differential like the example above is usually based on 110-130* split.
If you need the room at 130* you'll be working with a split temp of only 30-40* so the size of the heater will have to be nearly 4X whatever normal requirements would be.

I ran into an application where a customer was "debugging" recycled pallets. The wood had to reach 140* internal before he could ship them out. He was heating a converted semi trailer about 8' x 9' x 40' long and the rated output of the heat exchangers (3) was just a bit under 1/2MM btu each. 3 Garns were attached to supply heat.

If there was any way to set the product right on the floor and heat that, it would be pretty easy to do by running your concrete up to 120* or so.
Got tube?
 
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Here's the issue..........
In order to get the barrels/product up to 110* with indirect heating via air temp, you'll need to raise the temp in that room to at least 30-40* above that. At least if you want to heat the product in something less than a couple weeks time assuming it's liquid material in the barrels.

So here's the deal with using a forced air type heater for that application. A normal fan forced hydronic heater has an output based on 65* air temp with 180* water going through the coil. Given those parameters a fairly small heater will crank out 50,000 btu. If the incoming air temp rises however, the actual heat output drops rapidly. Normal water to air temp differential like the example above is usually based on 110-130* split.
If you need the room at 130* you'll be working with a split temp of only 30-40* so the size of the heater will have to be nearly 4X whatever normal requirements would be.

I ran into an application where a customer was "debugging" recycled pallets. The wood had to reach 140* internal before he could ship them out. He was heating a converted semi trailer about 8' x 9' x 40' long and the rated output of the heat exchangers (3) was just a bit under 1/2MM btu each. 3 Garns were attached to supply heat.

If there was any way to set the product right on the floor and heat that, it would be pretty easy to do by running your concrete up to 120* or so.
Got tube?
right now i have a 5x5x6 foot box i made that's insulated . i heat it with a electric oil filled radiator with a small fan. i can get that box to 120 deg with a lot more to go. i bypassed the inter thermostat and ran my own. due to the danger of doing it this way i wanted to utilize a loop from the owb.
 
How about some cast iron rads laying on their sides on the floor with a steel framework right above them the barrells can sit on? And more insulation under the rads. Getting the barrells on & off might be tricky, without your cart or whatever you move them with going off the framework & falling onto the rads.
 
A loop of pex wrapped around each barrel a few times. Keeping it 110 will be a challenge unless you can vary the flow to maintain.
 
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