Need advice- Liner

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potter

Feeling the Heat
Aug 8, 2008
308
western NY
I apologize up front for a long post- I'm installing my new Oslo into a 20 ft stone chimney with three tile lined races. Called my insurance company, they said I could either have it installed professionally or do it myself and have the local fire dept. look at it (no paperwork required). The local volunteer fire folks weren't willing because of liability etc. So I called the chimneysweep who cleans our fireplace and asked him to do it. He came out but was required by his rules to do a video scan of the liner. It has a number of vertical cracks. So he won't install without a liner. 2000.00 will get me a heavy duty insulated liner, and he has to break out the liner- part of which is exposed in the smoke shelf in the fireplace- so he's concerned about damaging other stuff and won't take responsibility. He talked around other solutions (which he might do for himself but not for his business). This included a flex liner.
I called a local stove dealer they will install a flex liner (which I don't believe is insulated?) for 1400.00 and finish the install of my stove- giving me a receipt that says the whole thing was professionally installed. I'm being told by others that liners almost always crack, and they certainly offer no insulation. There is roughly 6" (guess) of mortared stone around the flues where it passes through the roof (Much more elsewhere). The sweep said if it was 12" it wouldn't even need a liner. He didn't look at the fireplace liner might be similar and has been used 20+ years. So my choices are:
1. Hook up the stove and find a fireman, or not since they didn't want paperwork, and clean chimney often.
2. Have the flex installed. the price is not insulated.
3. Have the sweep do the rigid and take my chances on it blowing up into alot more money.
4. Install a flex liner myself.
I'm working 14 hrs 7days though mid November so want to get this done. The risk seems to be a chimney fire and heat radiating out to combustibles- I'm not sure how a tile cracked or perfect makes much difference wrapped in stone- I also know it doesn't take much to fracture red clay...
So thanks beforehand, I appreciate any input.
Oh, It's an interior chimney- the tile is 8x8 od.
 
Installing flex is fairly easy probably a four hour job... if it doesn't have more then two turns... you can pick up many liners including mine on ebay for roughly 350.00 so I would do it myself if possible...
 
Ask the stove shop for a flex quote, but w/ insulation. Should be $300-400 more. Safer, better draft, less creosote - in for a dime, in for a dollar, is my thought. I'm assuming a 6" liner, which means a really tight fit w/ blanket insulation in an 8x8 flue, and might be a tough (impossible?) solo job. Others w/ more experience could say for sure. (I'm going to try to insulate mine w/ perlite, in spite of the potential bumps going down that road!)
 
How does a liner affect draft, performance?
Is the insulation to improve draft or protect masonry from heat?- doesn't seem like space for much material.
 
Check on the availability of poured in place liners in your area. www.supaflu.com is one of at least three brands. No need to remove existing tile liner, improved draft, strengthens chimney, self-insulating, lifetime transferrable warranty (at least with Supaflu), price competitive with a metal liner.
 
Will check into poured in place....very rural, poor area though....
How do you clean a flex liner?
Calling another local listed on Homesaver site- can I get a 6" liner plus insulation down a 8x8 square tile?
 
flex liner would be best. Poured liner is very expensive and hard to do. Being that it is an 8x8, I would do the liner with out insulation, you will not get an insulated liner down that tight of a fit. With the top and bottom sealed, the 8x8 would only leave a one inch air space around the liner. That air space would heat quickly and insulate the liner-the same way a down coat works. $1400 is about right, little high
 
humpin iron said:
flex liner would be best. Poured liner is very expensive and hard to do. Being that it is an 8x8, I would do the liner with out insulation, you will not get an insulated liner down that tight of a fit. With the top and bottom sealed, the 8x8 would only leave a one inch air space around the liner. That air space would heat quickly and insulate the liner-the same way a down coat works. $1400 is about right, little high

Price does seem a little high, but considering this season and other calls I've made seems like best bet.
 
potter said:
How does a liner affect draft, performance?
Is the insulation to improve draft or protect masonry from heat?- doesn't seem like space for much material.

Potter

The answer is both. But not to protect just the masonary, but to protect the wood that inevitable is near it somewhere in the construction of the house.

Here is a link to a pamphlet I found. Focused on the US Market, but relevant no less to any install I believe.

http://www.woodheat.org/chimneys/bplinerusers.pdf and

http://www.woodheat.org/chimneys/bplinerretailers.pdf
 
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