Need an elbo - Home Depot?

[Alan W]

Okay just got a new wood stove. The old one liner connection was not drop down to the tow, and had about a 30' angle in the stove itself. The new stove doesn't go that far back, so a elbo of 30 or 45 would do the trick.

Stainless steel flex liner, with 6' coupling on the end - the coupling is heavy duty stainless steel. I'd like to pick something up today to get this stove working- and was wondering what specs do I need. I see 6' piping at home depot and such that they say is for stoves, but I'm sure its going to be sheet metal or something. Is that good enough, or do I need to run to a real stove shop (a distance away) and spend the extra $$ ($20 vs $50)

thoughts?

 

[bholler]

a temp hook up would be ok with a black pipe elbow but you will want to swap it out for a ss one

 

[Alan W]

a temp hook up would be ok with a black pipe elbow but you will want to swap it out for a ss one

Do you think something like this from lowes would work- its stainless but says for pellit..
Simpson Dura-Vent Stainless Steel 45-Degree Elbow for Pellet Stove

 

[bholler]

nope not the right size and it wont join up with a liner

 

[TheRambler]

a temp hook up would be ok with a black pipe elbow but you will want to swap it out for a ss one

Just curious as to why a black stove pipe elbow would only be a temp solution? I thought black stovepipe was fine to use to gi from the stove to the ss liner

 

[bholler]

I am assuming it is an insert in that case you want ss because it is a permanent attachment That will be covered. If it is a freestanding stove and the pipe will be out in the open black pipe is fine

 

[TheRambler]

I am assuming it is an insert in that case you want ss because it is a permanent attachment That will be covered. If it is a freestanding stove and the pipe will be out in the open black pipe is fine

That makes sense, thanks for the clarification!

 

[EatenByLimestone]

I don't like the choose your own angle elbows because I've seen them come apart at the seams... Literally. I much prefer a bent piece of metal.

 

[Alan W]

Thanks for the info. So I have the stainless steel liner, going to a straight stainless steel 6" fitting. I was able to bend it to get it into the stove, but its quite a goose neck. I'll be wanting to remove this for sweeping, as going into the stove and removing the baffles will be harder than removing the piping. Should I get a 45 that goes to the current fitting, or a 45 that goes directly to the liner, and replace the one I have. I want an easiest way for clean outs.

thoughts?

 

[bholler]

It is almost always easier to drop the baffle than to disconnect the liner each time not to mention much easier to contain the dirt

 

[Alan W]

It is almost always easier to drop the baffle than to disconnect the liner each time not to mention much easier to contain the dirt

on the Osburn 2400 I just got, to drop the baffle, I have to remove the tubes, by removing a cotter pin. - and then drop both baffles. With the fire bricks out when I was just looking at the process, it was quite a pain - when clean!! My old stove, I would just disconnect the liner, duck tape a plastic bag, and sweep. Minor vacuum and all done.

if their is an easier way, I'm for it - but removing the baffle seems a bit harder.

 

[bholler]

when possible i always remove any baffle anyway to make sure it is clean and in good shape. So i would recommend pulling it personally

 

[mellow]

Since it sounds like you already have an appliance adapter you can just get an elbow, I like the 30 degree since it works most times and is not as bad of a turn.

I have bought from this guy on ebay and the quality is good: http://www.ebay.com/itm/6-inch-stove-pipe-Stainless-Steel-30-Degree-Single-Wall-Elbow-/181601400593?

 

[mellow]

on the Osburn 2400 I just got, to drop the baffle, I have to remove the tubes, by removing a cotter pin. - and then drop both baffles. With the fire bricks out when I was just looking at the process, it was quite a pain - when clean!! My old stove, I would just disconnect the liner, duck tape a plastic bag, and sweep. Minor vacuum and all done.

if their is an easier way, I'm for it - but removing the baffle seems a bit harder.

Removing the baffle is a pain, but it is only done once a year if you are burning good wood. Once you do it once it will get easier for any subsequent cleanings. Not sure about having to remove the bricks, I would double check that.

If you remove the baffle you could get a Sooteater and do a bottom up cleaning.